one and only one

[Bluegill2]

I was going to match port the exhaust on my 550 using machinist bluing, but decided to leave well enough alone. It was just a matter off bluing the muffler flange, bolting it up for the bluing transfer to the exhaust flange coming off the head, then using a dermal burr to remove the unblued material closest to the exhaust tract. You can do this for the intake side as well.
Polishing the interior of the intake tract with various grits and rouge has always been up in the air and has two sides to each story. One claim is it increases flow, like a smooth bottom creek bed versus a rocky one, the other side of the story is, less atomization of the fuel/air mixture due to the smooth surface.
I did my Fatboy intake and added a 220 grit swirl pattern using the dermal with the flapping wheel. Could not tell a difference due to all the other mods I did at the same time.
Typically exhaust and intake mods offer the biggest HP and Torque gains for the least amount of money, however, nothing talks like cubic inches, everything else just optimizes whats already there.

You can port match the muffler just using the muffler gasket. First match the gasket to the port, then use it as a template on the muffler.

Word on the street is a 550xp only needs a muffler mod. They are a little Beast!!!

 

[Bluegill2]

We/ve gotten a bunch of preferences. I am glad Echo got represented. I guess a light chainsaw with a large power band is probably the most popular type. I remember how thrilled I was to get a hold of Husky's first anti vibe saw in 1970. I bought 3 180's and was tickled pink. Ironically we have not come too far tech wise in the last 40 years. Chainsaws have been made mostly lighter and higher revving. Not until now where Husky has innovated once more and brought us small saws that act as large ones. How they hold up professionally remains to be seen but they are something. If I were buying one all arounder tomorrow, I'd go with the Husky 550 with an 18" bar. I'd keep the 372 with a 24" bar and a carbide tipped chain for stumping and larger stuff. If I wanted a larger and smaller combo and buying new, I'd pick the 365 and the 550. For the money, the 365 is a ton of chainsaw.

The Husky 365 is a lot of saw for the money, but is the same size/weight as a 372xp. Basically the same saw with less CCs. I put a 372xpw 75cc top end on mine and it's a screamin monster!

For my large saw, I'd still rather use my 562xp all day, lighter, smaller, and great performance!!!

 

[arrow]

I think... my Husky is a 1100CD or 2100CD from the early 70's. It does not have a chainbrake, so maybe earlier 99cc 1100CD. It runs and cuts great.

View attachment 294187View attachment 294191View attachment 294192

the 2100 was a bit later in the 70's. I believe the 2100 had a one piece handle while the 1100 had kind of a bolt on. The 2100 had a torque grunt of the like I have never felt to date in any modern chainsaw. the 2100 also did not have a chain break.

 

[arrow]

The Husky 365 is a lot of saw for the money, but is the same size/weight as a 372xp. Basically the same saw with less CCs. I put a 372xpw 75cc top end on mine and it's a screamin monster!

For my large saw, I'd still rather use my 562xp all day, lighter, smaller, and great performance!!!

BG what is your dealer getting for the 562? I cannot go by my guy as he whacks the heck out of his saws. He has a 365 for $629 and a 372 for $929. Even these newer saws are better than their same number counterparts of yesteryear. I'm willing to bet the new 365XT cuts just about as well or close to my old 372xp. Where does the 562 fall cut wise to the real 70 cc saws?

 

[RobertN]

model info was worn off long before I got it. Local Husky shop was unsure. Those were the pictures I posted at AS site a couple years ago. Consensus on that site at the time, was 2100CD.

It runs and works well.

the 2100 was a bit later in the 70's. I believe the 2100 had a one piece handle while the 1100 had kind of a bolt on. The 2100 had a torque grunt of the like I have never felt to date in any modern chainsaw. the 2100 also did not have a chain break.

 

[RobertN]

That was the consensus on AS when I posted those pictures a couple years ago. It has a 24" bar on it right now. Acres site says 99cc; wonder how big a bar it would pull...

RobertN that looks like my 2100 that has had the muffler mods. It is a beast for cutting. I run a 36" or 28" bar with no problems

 

[Ken]

Ken. there are 3 areas a chainsaw can be ported (enlarged). Intake port, exhaust port and transfer ports. Usually a "woods" port is the enlarging and/or matching the exhaust muffler port and then maybe a polishing of the sides. Racing ports do all of the ports plus they might deck the head for more compression (a great way to make any 318 come alive by the way). There is a general consensus that Sthil makes the best chains of all. I know my best chains have been Sthil.

Thanks a little slow in getting back. My saw is the Stihl 290 Farm Boss and have used it 4 years with out any problems except the new type caps for oil the flip type cap gets lost and dumps the oil notice when the chain starts smoking. then have to back track where last worked and locate.
I use the 26RSC stihl chain 20" length. Was wondering there is a better type.
Have been cutting oak gum and hickory type trees and now have loads of cedar and seems this cedar is dulling the chain faster than would expect in soft wood.
Had thought the porting of engine might be done but have enough torque so not going any furthure with the idea.
Years ago for another saw purchased a carbide chain and was impressed in its ability to stay sharp. untill my son in law that had a landscaping business borrowed and guess they cut conctete because it came back toothless. Is this type chain still being offered. ?
ken

 

[Bluegill2]

BG what is your dealer getting for the 562? I cannot go by my guy as he whacks the heck out of his saws. He has a 365 for $629 and a 372 for $929. Even these newer saws are better than their same number counterparts of yesteryear. I'm willing to bet the new 365XT cuts just about as well or close to my old 372xp. Where does the 562 fall cut wise to the real 70 cc saws?

Last I checked the 562 was $739 locally, but they will knock a little off. I ordered mine for $680 with a 20" Tech-Lite bar, all most a year ago, and that's a $100 bar.

The 365XT is 71cc, same as the 372, but has plates in the transfer covers that restrict air flow. Grind these plates out and you have a 372xp XT. Good way to save a few bucks. These new XTorq saws have more power than the old models and seem to be doin great.

The 562xp is right on the heels of a 372xp power wise. But much smoother! Smaller and noticeably lighter. It is by far the most impressive stock saw I've ever run!!! I haven't run my 75cc 365 much since getting the 562xp.

 

[Bluegill2]

Thanks a little slow in getting back. My saw is the Stihl 290 Farm Boss and have used it 4 years with out any problems except the new type caps for oil the flip type cap gets lost and dumps the oil notice when the chain starts smoking. then have to back track where last worked and locate.
I use the 26RSC stihl chain 20" length. Was wondering there is a better type.
Have been cutting oak gum and hickory type trees and now have loads of cedar and seems this cedar is dulling the chain faster than would expect in soft wood.
Had thought the porting of engine might be done but have enough torque so not going any furthure with the idea.
Years ago for another saw purchased a carbide chain and was impressed in its ability to stay sharp. untill my son in law that had a landscaping business borrowed and guess they cut conctete because it came back toothless. Is this type chain still being offered. ?
ken

Try RMC semi chisel chain. It will stay sharper a lot longer than RSC full chisel will !

 

[Ken]

Try RMC semi chisel chain. It will stay sharper a lot longer than RSC full chisel will !

Thanks for the information . The RSC did cut hard wood good . Cedar has to much grit in the wood.
ken

 

[arrow]

Thanks a little slow in getting back. My saw is the Stihl 290 Farm Boss and have used it 4 years with out any problems except the new type caps for oil the flip type cap gets lost and dumps the oil notice when the chain starts smoking. then have to back track where last worked and locate.
I use the 26RSC stihl chain 20" length. Was wondering there is a better type.
Have been cutting oak gum and hickory type trees and now have loads of cedar and seems this cedar is dulling the chain faster than would expect in soft wood.
Had thought the porting of engine might be done but have enough torque so not going any furthure with the idea.
Years ago for another saw purchased a carbide chain and was impressed in its ability to stay sharp. untill my son in law that had a landscaping business borrowed and guess they cut conctete because it came back toothless. Is this type chain still being offered. ?
ken

Ken these chains are still being offered. There are carbide chains and then carbide chains. The weakest point is the brazing. A good carbide chain will be about 10 times the price of a regular chain. They have carbides that are about 3 times the price but good luck with those. Carbide is not bomb proof and wrecks about as fast if you hit a rock. They won't dull as fast but their brazing is the weakest point and you can snap off a carbide tip lickedy split. Also you need diamond files to sharpen these properly. They also do not cut as fast as a regular chain in wood. Whatever you do forget about the "carbide" chains that have a bit of carbide sprinkled on the top of the cutters. These chains dull just as fast as regular chain and are nothing more than a gimmick imo.

 

[arrow]

Try RMC semi chisel chain. It will stay sharper a lot longer than RSC full chisel will !

+1 Full chisel (most of the time its really not as you need a straight file for an actual chisel chain) is great in clean wood but a nuisance in any wood with grit. Semi is much better for that.

 

[Bluegill2]

Full chisel shines in clean green wood. Semi is absolutely best for everything else!!!

The only time I use chisel is at the saw racing events. Semi only for work...

 

[LD1]

I like the full chisel myself. We cut alot of dead wood, and little green. I can cut all I want for a days worth of work on the full chisel. Then touch up before next cutting.

Just keep it out of the dirt, and use a GOOD chain, like stihl.

 

[Ken]

Thanks to all in the replys and will purchase some RMC sthil chains to cut dry cedar.
The RSC chain cuts well for hard wood but the cedar seems to have a grit that dulls the chain.
Have set the oiler pump to full amount of oil less seems to start smoking quickly.

Merrry Christmas and a good new year.
ken

 

[Bluegill2]

I like the full chisel myself. We cut alot of dead wood, and little green. I can cut all I want for a days worth of work on the full chisel. Then touch up before next cutting.

Just keep it out of the dirt, and use a GOOD chain, like stihl.

I can and have got by for years with full chisel, but semi works best for me.

Maybe the wood has more grit here in the Ozarks?

 

[LD1]

I can and have got by for years with full chisel, but semi works best for me.

Maybe the wood has more grit here in the Ozarks?

Possibly???

Dont get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with the semi. It is definatally more forgiving for dirty work. But just slower. If I were finding myself having to sharpen before a full days cutting, I would be using the semi for sure. But with the chisel cutting faster, and lasting me a whole day except for human error......I'll stick with the chisel for now.

 

[Bluegill2]

Possibly???

Dont get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with the semi. It is definatally more forgiving for dirty work. But just slower. If I were finding myself having to sharpen before a full days cutting, I would be using the semi for sure. But with the chisel cutting faster, and lasting me a whole day except for human error......I'll stick with the chisel for now.

I can't cut for a full day with any chain without a touch up with the file. I also don't find semi to be any slower, after the first sharpening, but a little slower right out of the box.

 

[arrow]

I can't cut for a full day with any chain without a touch up with the file. I also don't find semi to be any slower, after the first sharpening, but a little slower right out of the box.

I skid my logs as opposed to having them delivered. I cannot elevate them as high as a skidder or I refuse to cut up 10' sections and skid those. At any rate my logs come in rather gritty even when I skid in the snow. Some of these logs have caused me to have to sharpen my chisel chain after 6 cuts which also makes me crazy. For me, chisel makes the job much longer even though it will cut faster so I go to semi chain and get way more cuts and enough to go the entire tankful. When I see a real bad patch of stuck on dirt or the like, I'll girdle the area with a campers axe just to maintain the chain cutting longer no matter what type of chain I'm using.