operation my first John Deer

[par4n1]

I will be picking up my John Deere x575 4wd this Saturday. The widow of the owner/ operator knows little to nothing on how to test all functions of the tractor and neither do I. How long do I let the 22hp liquid cooled kawasaki run to determine if it is going to run hot or not and at what throttle? The tractor has four hydro ports that I will hook the snow blade to for testing purpoeses, other then the hydraulic deck raising and lowering is that all the testing of the hydro system that can be done? The rear end has 2 small arms that appear to run off hydro. could that be the base operations for a 3 point hitch? Is it ok to throw the hydro levers on the steering colum while there is no attachment hooked up to pressureize the system looking for leaks?
Thank you

 

[wetstuff]

John: I'm new (about 8wks) also ..and cannot be specifically helpful with your questions. 'Cept to say, if you do not have a manual - go on Ebay. I bought one for my 1070 for, like $10.

It may be $$ well spent, to have a basic service done on it at your local J-D dealer or Indy repair shop to establish a baseline and refresh all fluids. Good luck.

Jim

 

[pilot-werx]

I will be picking up my John Deere x575 4wd this Saturday. The widow of the owner/ operator knows little to nothing on how to test all functions of the tractor and neither do I. How long do I let the 22hp liquid cooled kawasaki run to determine if it is going to run hot or not and at what throttle? The tractor has four hydro ports that I will hook the snow blade to for testing purpoeses, other then the hydraulic deck raising and lowering is that all the testing of the hydro system that can be done? The rear end has 2 small arms that appear to run off hydro. could that be the base operations for a 3 point hitch? Is it ok to throw the hydro levers on the steering colum while there is no attachment hooked up to pressureize the system looking for leaks?
Thank you

You should be able to find the manual on the Deere website for printing at home. I would take a look at that. On my 455 and 4210, you can move the levers at anytime whether something is connected or not with no problems. If there was a leak. You would most likely see it with the tractor running as some of the ports are pressurized without moving the levers at all.

 

[par4n1]

Thank you all. I have read the owners manual and it speaks little about the hydro procedures, a little in the trouble shooting area. It is nice to know that the hydro system is under pressure while the tractor is running. My questions about how long to test for over heating was because of a post i once read about not letting the tractor motors idlefor long periods of time, however with this being liquid cooled I thought maybe it could idel as long as needed.
Thank you

 

[beenthere]

You should have little to worry about. The temp gauge will tell you if there is any overheating of the coolant.
A check by you or your Deere mechanic to verify that the radiator is clear of old dust and the pre-screens for air movement are clean. Likely they are but should be checked.

Sounds like you are hooking up a snow blade that will use the hydraulics. There will be a shutoff valve to close so the hyd mower deck lift will be locked out. This valve is near the hydraulic couplings.

Finding someone to help you do the setup and operation will be good, and I'd expect the Deere dealer would be a place to start.

You have a very good machine that will give you years of good service. Keep the oil levels up and ask any questions here for some happy seat time.

A pic or two will help if additional pointers about the condition of the tractor and what you refer to as lift arms would be good.

 

[par4n1]

Thank you I am off to find a picture of the rear and here are a few picts. of the mower i am buying. It seems to be a pretty good deal. it is a 2006 x575 with 175 hrs, 54" deck and 54" blade. Was only looking for a nice rider when I fell into this

 

[par4n1]

Here is the picture showing the rear end linkage I was talking about. If you look at the rod running paraelle with the axel you will see 2 arms the rod runs through. That is what I was speaking of.

 

[beenthere]

ok
That is the hyd cyl that lifts the deck. Not the 3 pt that is a Deere option (I think ? ).

That last pic looks like a dealers lot, and not a Deere dealer. The tractor looks in great condition, but I'd be sure to blow out the radiator fins from the front towards the back, with the drop-in screen removed. That will get the latent dust out and make it easier to keep clean. I wouldn't try to wash it out as it may turn to mud and just stay forever caked onto the fins of the radiator.
I've a compressor and blow off the deck, tractor and engine area after every mowing. Try to never put it away wet or dusty. Seldom wash it down.
Thanks for the pics.

The price seems on the low side, so thinking you are getting a great tractor and think you will like the 54" deck a lot (I do mine). Lucky you.

 

[Dutch445]

Par4,
that's a nice unit, and they are quite durable and reliable.

it would be great to start out with a full service, pick up a
home service kit at the dealer (fuel,oil,air filters plugs and oil) and
give it a good complete service, including the hydraulic oil etc.
this will give you more knowledge of the new tractor, and you know
where you are starting out regarding service history. invest in
a good grease gun, with a flex hose, there are fittings on the
engine/transmission driveshaft that are a bit tricky to get! don't forget
the front axle pivot too.

correct on those rods etc at the rear, connected to the
cylinder that lifts the mower deck. if a 3ph was to be added, those
items get changed around a bit to accomodate. there should be
a hydraulic oil shut off on the scv (on the backside of where your
blade hoses would connect) that you shut off for blade use, giving full
oil supply to the blade instead of operating that mower lift cylinder all
the time. (open back up for mower use)

keep your radiator screen/side shields clean, and you should avoid
overheating. if you end up overheating the unit will kill the PTO, which
should get you looking around to see why.

keep us posted, lots of good info here, and many willing to share.