Operator Presence Switch

[jtn]

First, a little background. All the Calss III Boomers have an operator presence switch (you know, the switch that shuts the engine off if you get off the seat with the transfer case in gear or the PTO on). The switch is activated when a tab fastened to the bottom of the seat holds it down. Two springs hold the seat up so the switch only gets depressed when someone is sitting in it.

Anyway, the tab that activates the switch on my seat broke off. Very annoying. I wadded up a lot of duct tape on the bottom of the seat to keep the switch depressed so I could continue running.

I thought I would let you all know about this so you can keep an eye on the tab and do not get stuck somewhere.

JT

 

[tc35dforme]

hey jtn....you still have that switch operating ??!!

although its not safe or responsible, i have a friend who shunts his with a small wire with ( 2 ) 1/4" crimp on spade connectors placed into the socket after it is pulled from the switch. he tells me it saves a lot of shutdown aggrevation when he stands to see an obstruction while mowing / hogging.

of couse he can easily pull the wire and snap in the connector when the safety police come around.

i'm not recommending it ...... but

 

[jtn]

I did not want to suggest safety bypasses, but since we are on the topic....

My plan is to weld a spring on the bottom of the seat to hold the switch down. I hate messing with wires.

I agree that it is annoying when standing to see obstructions but it bothers me the most when using the backhoe. My hoe is PTO powered and I like to leave the tractor in neutral without the brakes on so I can push it forward with the hoe and save repositioning time.

JT

 

[jinman]

JT, I agree with TC35Dforme that you can easily bypass your switch and not worry with it. If you need help with the electrical connection, I'll draw you a picture...much simpler than welding. Now don't expect me to make any apologies to the "safety police" about bypassing this switch. I've operated too many tractors in my life that had no switch whatsoever and I don't feel one ounce less safe with the kill switch working. As a matter of fact, that's the first modification I made to my tractor. I also remove the reverse gear kill switch off all my riding lawnmowers. Can you imagine not being able to mow in reverse? Anyhow, I can't think that anyone who is responsible enough to own and use a tractor without running into walls really needs a kill switch on the seat. In your case, I'm sure a simple plug-in bypass will be much easier and more effective than the welding method. My guess is that you are a lot more comfortable welding than working with wiring, but there are plenty of us here who will make sure you know how to do this job if you want to do it.

 

[tc35dforme]

jtn,

another friend of mine !!! uses this arrangement.

get yourself a piece of sheet metal about 20 gauge 1" wide and about 6-7" long. now....you know the two seat springs that sit on either side of the switch ?? measure the center to center distance.

using this measure for your center of the holes, on one end drill a hole maybe 3/8". on the other end drill a hole the same size and nibble out the material on one side of it so you have a slot.

now remove one of the spring bolts, add a washer, the strap ( hole end ) and reattach the bolt. on the other side, loosen the bolt just a bit. now you can swing the strap over the safety button and slip it under the loose bolt/spring. a little bending ( bowing ) of the strap makes it all fit nice. A quick spin on the bolt and its done. To remove, just loosen the bolt and swing it away.

not as easy as pulling the wires, but must be easier than welding ??

 

[Hoeman00]

Did I miss something or just bend the tab away from seat base and it will keep the switch closed.
I did this to my 35D and works fine.

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>Anyway, the tab that activates the switch on my seat broke off. Very annoying. I wadded up a lot of duct tape on the bottom of the seat to keep the switch depressed so I could continue running.</font color=blue>

Hoeman00, I think you did miss that JT had the problem noted above. In my opinion, your method is fine unless you are standing up and hit a bump large enough to make the seat bounce. When I get a chance, I'll take a picture of my bypass and post it.

 

[Phred]

JT,

Mine has a buzzer rather than a kill switch. Forget to leave the break on or leave the pto engaged and a similar switch sets of a buzzer.

Since it does not kill the engine and only makes some noise I have not needed to perform any switch surgery. After all I use ear plugs /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.

Sometimes though these are a good idea; your tired after a long day and the CFO is mad due to neglect. So your eager to get something done in a hurry. Forget the parking brake or leave the PTO engaged and before you know it your missing a few digits or worse run over.


Fred

 

[Hoeman00]

I saw that his had broke but some 1" banding stock will
fix that and make more off an offset in it to hold switch
down.
What about taking coil springs off (more pressure on switch).

 

[jinman]

Well, here is the photo I promised that shows how to bypass your seat switch with two inches of wire and two spade connectors.(see attachment) After bypassing the switch, I just looped my wire around the wire going up to the tail light and it has been there for 1-1/2 years with no trouble. Again, there are many ways to bypass this switch, but I don't know of any that are so simple to do as this jumper. /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif