Opinions on the Best Way to Build a Loader Frame Mounted Plow

[lostcause]

Still not sure whether I should post this here or the Hydraulics forum... I mainly want to know opinions on designing with a single double acting cylinder vs two single acting cylinders, relief or bypass valves, etc. The fab portion of the plow isn't too much of a concern, but if you have a nice compact and innovative design you don't mind sharing I always love other ideas. Pictures are cool.

I've got a loader controlled 3rd SCV plumbed to the front to start with, and a 6.5' Fisher blade to fab around. All the tools I could ever need, but not all that I want.

 

[Fallon]

If using curl & a diverter you need a double acting cylinder. Regent makes a pair of single acting cylinders only work 1 way. Not the as t it applies if you have a true 3rd function.

My general thought is most plows gow with a pair of single acting for a reason. Stronger, easier to protect with a crossover relief, etc. The only snow plows that is see with a double acting cylinder are cheap ones.

Make sure you design in vertical & a little rotational float. My first plow had that. My new one does not. It's been on my to do list to reengineer the mount for float. Tired of gouging up gravel on the driveways.

 

[dstig1]

A pair of single acting seems to be the most common method. Either way you still need a crossover relief valve to avoid breaking something if you hit a curb or object. The plumbing is basically the same either way.

1. Keep the plow as close to the loader as possible. The more it sticks out, the more it will just lever your tractor sideways, especially in heavy stuff. I tucked the frame under the SSQA plate to keep it tighter.
2. Make the plow float by itself - hang it from a chain. DO NOT expect to be able to float the loader and have it work on a plow. There is too much weight and it won't work. You can work in a hard stop so if you really want to scrape something you can apply down pressure, but the primary method should be the plow moldboard floating independently of the loader.

 

[Fallon]

A pair of single acting seems to be the most common method. Either way you still need a crossover relief valve to avoid breaking something if you hit a curb or object. The plumbing is basically the same either way.

1. Keep the plow as close to the loader as possible. The more it sticks out, the more it will just lever your tractor sideways, especially in heavy stuff. I tucked the frame under the SSQA plate to keep it tighter.
2. Make the plow float by itself - hang it from a chain. DO NOT expect to be able to float the loader and have it work on a plow. There is too much weight and it won't work. You can work in a hard stop so if you really want to scrape something you can apply down pressure, but the primary method should be the plow moldboard floating independently of the loader.

A crossover relief valve doesn't help a double acting cylinder. A pair of single acting cylinders has the same volume in each cylinder so when the relief valve trips the cylinders move the same amount & the same amount of fluid goes from 1 cylinder to the other. With a double acting cylinder the rod end has less fluid than the cylinder end. So you can't fit the fluid from 1 end into the other end equally.

 

[dstig1]

I understand what you are saying...but you still need some sort of relief valve. Maybe a different sort for a DA cylinder. Might be why they use SA most often - easier.

 

[RickB]

A crossover relief valve doesn't help a double acting cylinder.

Without question it will work in one direction.
Many with actual experience would say it works both ways.
But a design using two single acting cylinders will be stronger because a retracted cylinder is far stronger than an extended one.