Ordering tire chains for tractor

[doxford jim]

I don't know if this is the right place for this, but it is an attachments so )

I tried to get some idea of the price for chains for my tractor and gave the tire sizes and just about fainted when given the prices. This is up in Canada, so that might account for the amount.
I wanted to order a pair of chains for the rears 12.4 x 28
and a pair for the fronts 8.3 x 20

I was quoted $359 for rears and $222 for fronts. I am not sure of the chain type for the rear, but for the front is was "Veebar".

I have never ordered these before and suspect that I sounded that way too, to the seller. What would you guys generally order - both in chain pattern and chain type. I am absolutely clueless as to what might be needed. I would think for general use on the property, a general ladder type chain is all that is required on ag tires. I want to be able to clear the snow without sliding all over the place on the ice. Do the fancy chain types work that much better?

Anything that might help with the ordering and choice would be great.

Thanks in advance

Jim

 

[JerryK]

I bought my rear chains from Tire Chains by Tirechains.com . I bought the H pattern w/lugs. On a R1 tire [normal ag tire], most of the chain is down in between the lugs, so you have to go with at least the H pattern to get some of the chain surface between the weight of the tractor/tire and the ground. A smaller logging type chain set weighs a lot less [more $$$ though], and if you are only running on snow and ice should last for a long time. My chains are for 16.9/28, and are a real sweet project to put on and off, they weight quite a bit. I only use my chains when the drive gets iced up later in the winter, so I can blow uphill if I want to [depends on the wind]. I didn't have to put them on last year, but needed them real bad the year before. Good luck, Jerry.

 

[jbrumberg]

Doxford jim:

My tractor dealer advised me many years ago to put chains on my rears only as chains on the front tires (and rear tires) negatively impact on the front wheel slip and front wheel gearing. I have seen some operators using front chains only to aid in traction. Jay

 

[GaryM]

I bought a set of chains for mt JD 4100 last year. Tried to put them on and found that the chain would hit the outside of the draft arms. Big dissapointment.

I've since discovered that I can reverse the wheels wich should give enough clearance. I'm going to do that in October or November and see how that works out.

And No, I can't set the pins on the blade to the inside because of the way the blade's made. That was the first thing I thought about.

 

[atgreene]

I ran chains on the front of my Kubota 345 until I snapped the front drive gear. Salesman told me that Kubotas shouldn't run chains on the front, until I showed him a Kubota brochure showing chains all around.

My 4150 I run V bar on front and H pattern on rear. I'm not happy with the H pattern and plan to go to a square studded pattern this winter for logging.

Here's what I have http://www.wallingfords.com/icc/icc_tru_grip_pop.html

Here's what I'm getting http://www.wallingfords.com/aquiline/grader-h_chains.html

Here's where I usually buy such stuff, they have decent prices and are near me, so no shipping. http://www.labonville.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=111&idproduct=358

I'm looking at over $700 for the rear, $300+ for the fronts, depending upon what I go with there.

 

[doxford jim]

I ran chains on the front of my Kubota 345 until I snapped the front drive gear. Salesman told me that Kubotas shouldn't run chains on the front, until I showed him a Kubota brochure showing chains all around.

My 4150 I run V bar on front and H pattern on rear. I'm not happy with the H pattern and plan to go to a square studded pattern this winter for logging.

Here's what I have http://www.wallingfords.com/icc/icc_tru_grip_pop.html

Here's what I'm getting http://www.wallingfords.com/aquiline/grader-h_chains.html

Here's where I usually buy such stuff, they have decent prices and are near me, so no shipping. http://www.labonville.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=111&idproduct=358

I'm looking at over $700 for the rear, $300+ for the fronts, depending upon what I go with there.

Thanks guys,

As you are probably seeing, I am new to all of this so some things come as a bit of a shock. I suppose, if I had thought a bit more about it, I would have realized that the tractor chains are gonna be a bit spendy. However, learning more form the TBN is always great (I am learning all the time).

Thx for the tips on where to buy, now I have some other sources to get a different perspective and compare prices. It seems then, the prices I have been qouted are not too bad all things considered. I guess it would probably be better to just chain the rears and see how I make out this winter. I didn't do too bad with just the rears chained on my MF65 , but that does have loaded rears.

Thx again and look forward to more tips if anyone else feels inclined.

Jim

 

[atgreene]

I found that with the fronts not chained, when twitching wood I had to use the brakes for steering. With the fronts chained, turning was less of an issue and the loader worked much better pushing snow.

I would go with a less agressive chain on the front, and ALWAYS have weight on the rear if you're digging with the fel. All the tractor weight on the front end digging may put too much force on the front axle/shaft. This is a good policy, chains or no chains.