OT--Bluing Gun Metal?

[DWCox]

This isn't entirely tractor related, but most of you come up with good solutions, so I thought I would ask.

I recently re-acquired an old Stevenson single-shot shotgun that I had when I was a kid. It has literally sat in a cabinet for several decades and has rust all over the barrel. Functionally it is okay, it just looks bad. I had refinished the stock as a kid with linseed oil, and that still looks good to this day.

The shotgun has sentimental value to me and I wanted to fix it back up and pass it on to the kids. I have heard that you can re-blue the metal or have it done by professionals. I would prefer to do it myself if it is feasible. If it is, where does one get the kit, etc.?

 

[blagg]

The best way to have it done is hot blue by a professional. The rust has to be cleaned off and the metal polished. If there are deep pits then they will show through. A proffesional bluing job only looks as good as the metal was prepared beforehand. Take it to a Gunsmith in your area that provides this service.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

If I remember right those single barrel shotguns were finished in a matte blue/black finish like a modern Marlin, not the highly polished royal blue like a Colt Python for example. If that's the case, it will be easier to hide the rust pits as the surface is less reflective than the highly polished type.

Another possibility is to have it coated black with the new high tech coatings like some of the IPSC and tactical pistols have. The thickness of the coating will fill in the defects (and some of the letters if they aren't deep enough )

Talk to a few local 'smiths and get a few prices and opinions before you decide. Rust and pits are easier to fix than a bad blue job.

Tom

 

[CCWKen]

Granted, hot bluing by a professional is the upper-shelf way to go but you can do cold bluing yourself and get a show quality finish. I refinished a Marlin 22-cal. single shot rifle I got when I was about eight years old. I'll just say that the rifle is now more than 50 years old! I refinished it about 15 years ago with cold bluing and a hand rubbed stock. It's held up very well and the barrel shows no sign of rust or fading.

It's almost a black from multiple steps but if you need true black, that can be done cold also. Your local gun shop can provide the blue/black chemical. It's liquid. Follow the directions exactly. It must not have any oil or finger prints on the parts you blue so the degreasing/cleaning step is the most important. Use acetone or alcohol as the final wipe down before bluing. Don't use any oil based cleaners/solvents and that includes lacquer thinner. Also, wear 100% Nitrile gloves to handle the clean bare metal. Latex and/or rubber gloves will leave a residue and show up in the bluing.

Ken

Forgot to mention: A matte finish to gloss finish is controlled by the surface of the metal. If you want it to shine, polish the metal. If you want a semi-gloss finish, steel-wool the metal. A matte finish can be achieved by media blasting the metal or by acid etch.

 

[PILOON]

The preparation consists of sanding with VERY fine emery cloth or again 'wet or dry' sand paper using progressively higher grit no's.
Clamping in a vice and 'sawing' with strips of emery will work well.
Were you to finish with, say 1000 grit, the finish would be equal to the finest firearms out there.
I recall a product called (I think) Colt 44, a cold blue that did a great job, but others may have replaced that today.
I also have some firearms that I cold blued many years ago that still look great.
There are (were) many grades of cold blues and not all are equal.
In fact the most recognizable brands were generally not the best.
Once the metal is prepped and maybe you are not satisfied with a specific brand re prepping for another attempt is not difficult as most of the hard work still is valid, just the final fine emery to re do.

Once a good finish is attained, good oil and maintainance will keep it 'like new'.

Just a few years ago I did another 'cold blue' job and because of our local gun laws (Canada) had the hardest time to find good cold blues.
Hope you have better luck!

 

[DWCox]

Thanks for the replies. Cold bluing was just the thing I had heard about. Funny that some of you mention Marlin, because I was thinking of redoing the Marlin .22 rifle that I have as well. It is a rugged little rifle and I thought I would give it a try on certain wear spots first before the shotgun.

 

[DieselPower]

Up until a few years ago I cold blued everything with a cold bluing product called OXPHO-BLUE from Brownells and was happy with the results. I got a set of hot salt solution tanks a few years ago so all of mine are done with Oxynate #7 or Oxynate #84 now (hot tank fluids). There's nothing like a hot tank blue job to a perfectionist.

Either way I would also recommend a Rust and Blue Remover which can also be gotten from Brownells. This is my first step which takes the gun back to live metal only (no rust). After polishing I use their TCE Cleaner Degreaser as the last step before hitting the bluing tanks.

www.brownells.com

 

[blagg]

Thats what I use Oxynate 7 hot blue tanks. There is nothing in the way of cold blues that will compare. Believe me I've tried.

 

[Ridgewalker]

DW, sounds like you need to send your gun to balgg or dieselpower!

 

[allen in texas]

Have you considered a rust blue?

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If it's an older gun, this finish might fit better.