Outdoor wood boiler project

[jpm]

hi guys, i have a central boiler and the expensive pipe and its 75 feet from my house.the pipe comes up to about 3 inchs below grade do to rock with no heat loss so it works,others ?.the boiler smokes only at refill .i use mostly soft woods because i have a load of it.only white pine is a problem ,doesn't hold a fire

 

[Diesel-ME]

What do you use for the underground pipe? I've been looking at the Central Boiler Classic, and accepted the $7000 price tag. Then I started looking at the other components, primarily the insulated pipe for connection to the house and shop. At $12 per foot and 250 ft of pipe, I'm looking at another $3000 for pipe. Ouch!! Is it worth it? Is it necessary? I've found a product called Maxx-r insulation that runs about $1 per foot. Add two 1" pex lines inside of that for about $1 per foot each, and that $3000 turns into $750. The Maxx-R claims about the same heat loss as the ThermoPEX insulated pipe, about 2 degreees over 100 ft, or something like that.

If I decide to invest in this heating system, I only want to install it once. Will I regret not using the fancy, high priced pipe? Thanks for your help.
Jim

The pipe that I bought was not the high-end stuff. It's just two 1" PEX tubes wrapped separately and then all around in some insulation, all contained inside of that black plastic drain type pipe (not perferated of course). My run is short, but if I had a long run I'd definately go for the fancy-schmancy stuff with the thick layer of foam. Using an infrared thermometer, I can detect heat loss from my piping - not huge though. I don't recall what I paid for the piping, but it was 4 years ago anyway.

I'd want the good stuff at 250'. Then again, I would not want to trudge 250' in the snow to feed my boiler either

~paul

 

[scesnick]

As a former unhappy OWB owner and a current happy indoor multifuel boiler owner I have researched this to death and have now owned both and here are my "Pro's and Con's" of both boilers that I have owned..

Pacific Western OWB ( Model #1 )

PROS:
* Cheap heat , if you get your wood for free
* The boiler is outside. Nice if there is a boiler fire or something.
* Actually very little smoke, atleast from the model I owned.
* Would accept very big logs. If you could lift it, you could burn it.

Cons:
* PRICE !!
* Burn times were VERY inflated by the dealer ( 8 hours MAX)
* Standing outside at midnight in -10 deg to tend fire. ( wifey no likely)
* Absolute wood eater. approx 200lbs of wood would last about 8 hours.
* Combustion blower failure means frozen $8,000 boiler ( Not good !!)

AHS Multifuel boiler:

PROS:

* It is in a heated Garage !!!!
* Is ASME stamped
* Is WAY,WAY more efficient than the OWB was ( even burning wood)
* is about $2,500 cheaper than OWB for same BTU rating.
* Did I mention it is in a heated garage ( wifey now likey )

Cons:

* Too heavy to take to a basement ( 1,200lbs )
* Have to check with insurance company if it is on an attached garage.

So there you go, that is just my experience with both units. But even if you have an attached garage why not just buy a $1,000 10x10 shed and put an indoor unit inside it? You would still be saving money and have a nicer unit all around that the local county Gov't can't ban in 2 years??
As I stated earlier, I heated my 3,500 sq ft. log home that sites at 3,000 ft. on top of a wind swept mountain for $250 last year. ( 5 ton of coal) if you don't live in country then just get the AHS "Wood Gun" boiler or a comparable unit...

*

 

[ericjeeper]

Well I am referred to as a tightwad, and one that can fabricate and weld.
I decided last year to build one. I used a firebox out of an old forced air wood furnace.. Dad said it was to small..(Note to self always listen to your father, especially when he used the wood furnace for 15 years in his home.)
So I started another one last weekend. I located a length of pipeline pipe. 30 inch diameter. and 4 feet long. half inch thick walls. I scrounged for 30 cents a pound plate steel for the back end. I used 3/8ths wall. Then I used a 36 inch diameter pipe 4'10" inches long. I welded all this up. Today I framed up the wood frame work for the sheet metal to cover it. I will wrap all water holding areas with R-30 fiberglass.
boiler8056.JPG photo - Eric photos at pbase.com
boiler8057.JPG photo - Eric photos at pbase.com
boiler8061.JPG photo - Eric photos at pbase.com
I will add more photos when I take em.
I am going to fax off the order tomorrow for the metal. I live in a pole barn house and I am ordering the colors to match. Clay with a green roof.

 

[amkfken]

Good luck, the only home fire in my subdivision (home burned to ground) was caused by an outside wood burner sparks . It was located 75 ft from the home, only problem was it was upwind.
Our local fire district does not give their blessings on these, I wouldn't touch one!
Just content with my wood burning stove in the home!

 

[MontanaMEL]

I am wondering if anyone is still reading this thread?
I am also very new to this site, but am seeing a lot of "common sense" in here that I'm liking... Would anyone care to pick up where this one left off???

We are at 6,000 ft ASL, in the Northern rocky Mtn's of SW Montana; on 20 acres of spruce and doug Fir w/rocks, gully's, and ridges... Our home is "well" insulated - dual pane, basement, vented atic, etc.

Looking at one of these "wood boilers" as a secondary/back-up source...We manage now (thanks to Bonniville Power rates and our Co-Op) with electric augmented (base demand) propane demand load today..Propane is usually around $1.40 to $1.60/gal delivered in June/July, with 2,000 gal total storage up here. (500gal x 2; + 1,000gal). Total per year = $1,200~$1,400 including hot water usage (propane only) (we see -30 f. for about 10-15 days/yr, and -20f. for another 20-30 days/yr...lots of day between -5f. and +20f.)

I'm paying attention to what was said about an "indoor" system, done in a small shed nearby but not connected to the main house...efficency is the prime driver here...getting to old to work any 10-15 cords per year...besides, this is back-up not primary.. Will have to do some kind of "air mover and ducts" in the basement...not a real big deal...might consider doing some sort of split or zone for the garage; the shop and radio shack is way to far away to consider (200 ft and 300 ft respective). The added use of a hot water heater exchanger is also of interest.. However, has anyone done such a system with a very small blower motor on the air mover? In case of longterm electric outage, I would like to have some 12v, or "inverter powered" smaller motor to take over...solar fed comes to mind for this possibility.

Any more "brand" information as to burn rates, efficencies, install woes, parts and service issues???

Will check back for any postings...but, anyone that wants to direct it off thread then please use: kd7dcr@netscape.com

Regards, and God Bless All,

Mel