over seeding turf?

[jimgerken]

I need to overseed a 2 acre runway this Spring, here in Minnesota. It was seeded 5 years ago, but the seed produced these big clumps of grass, and bare spots between (poor germination due to old seed or my improper bed prep), with many weeds to fill it in. The weeds were always tougher to mow than real grass would be, so I always wanted them gone. But then last year, since I wasn't using the strip, it was pastured for cattle. So now its a real mess, I suppose.
I am thinking I will get in there and roll it flat as soon as I can go in four wheel with the JD 4100 pulling the roller without having the wheels sink in. That should get the hoof prints reduced quite a bit. Other ideas I have are overseeding, and weed control applications. I also own a landscape rake and power broom (rotary brush).
What might be a good procedure for getting this strip back in shape, for a solid stand of grass? I am hopeing for low maintenance, mowing is expected, weeds make that tougher. Want a smooth surface. Any hints, tips welcomed.
What is a good choice of turf seed? and what kind of pounds per acre seem reasonable to keep costs under control but end up with useable turf? Thanks guys.

 

[Twanger]

I think it depends on how nice you want the grass to be. Nicest would be to roundup the plot then rent a Sukup seeder. http://www.sukup.com/landscape.htm. As far as the type of seed I wish I new. The Sukup has a type of aerator that helps incorporate the seed then a compactor wheel insures good soil contact. I sound like a comercial, but I'm only a guy who is very dangerous when it comes to ideas.

 

[RalphVa]

Twanger's suggestion is about what a local farmer did to a strip about 50' alongside the road I take over to the bowling alley and Lowes. His grass now looks pretty nice.

Ralph

 

[normde2001]

I don't see in your bio that you have a rotary cutter, (bush hog). It has been my experience that if you bushhog an area a few times, it will fix itself. The weeds and brambles will disappear and start resembling grass. That and a little grass seed should do wonders. In my area of N. Georgia they allow agricultural burns of areas like that, with a permit.

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> It has been my experience that if you bushhog an area a few times, it will fix itself. The weeds and brambles will disappear and start resembling grass. That and a little grass seed should do wonders. </font>

I agree with Norm. Our first couple of years with our lot we did nothing but mow it and it started looking better with each conditioning. Not until after we finishing construction of the house did we ever overseed.

 

[RalphVa]

A neighbor 2 over and myself bushhog some trails down below. The trails become grass paths after bushhogging. On each side of many of the trails are 6 and 7' high Wingstem plants that have bear-claw-like roots. My neighbor with 80 acres says that stuff used to never grow here when everyone used to bushhog their meadows.

Ralph

 

[jpr62902]

Kentucky 31 is a good grass -- very durable/drought resistant. It will also choke out just about everything but dandelions and clover. The down side is it takes a while to get established. If you seed in April, it probably won't be substantially filled in until the end of next season.

 

[jdmar]

Talk to a LOCAL seed supply house for good seed for your area and use. You do NOT need to water or even straw it unless you want to work extra hard or are on a steep hill. I graded and seeded about 4 acres about 16 months ago. In the spring (9-10 months ago) I rented a little "Bluebird" over seeder and re-seeded the area (it cuts slits in the ground and lays seed in). It was slow go re-seeding 4 acres with a 30" path but it worked great. In my area I can't find anyone who rents three point overseeders---but they really work great if you can get hold of one.

If you want really nice turf-you need to do more than just overseed. I agree that you should then "round-up" the whole area, wait about 2-4 weeks until your current growth is dead and dry. Then mow it as short as you possibly can. Then disc/rototil/etc the top several inches. If you need better soil add it then or even spread a bit of OLD manure/sand/etc before you till the area. Then drag it with an arena drag mat (old chain link fences and old mattress springs work also!) to get it nice and level. Then you can seed the area with a three point seeder, or even a quality walk behind rotary seeder.

If you use the rotary seeder you can get a better result by doing a bit of extra work. First seed at about 1/2 to 2/3 rate but seed it twice in crossing directions. Second, rake the soil a bit after seeding to get the seed covered for better germination and less bird loss. You may want to have a bit of quick germinating rye grass to start stabilizing the soil and providing some protection to the other seed in you decide not to use straw.

The best time to start a new yard is in the fall not the spring. There is much less weed competition at that time(fall). Also the new grass does not have to survive the hot and dry summer with its shallow roots. Yes, you can seed in the spring but start early and you may want to add some starter fertizer to encourage root growth (ask your seed supplier about the right kind to avoid burning and killing your tender new grass)

OK, so I have gone on too long. But my only goal is to help. I did a lot of research, talking, learning, and working the last two years to turn a rough old scrub infested pasture into a turf area for my kids to play in. Hope some of this has helped you. If wanted I can try to find some "before and after" photos.

Peter

 

[grandad]

You should be able to get some good turf grass started up in the land of 10,000 lakes... at least, when we lived in the Twin Cities years ago, getting the grass to grow was never much of a problem!

Seriously, if your last attempt at overseeding gave such spotty results, I am wondering if getting the area disc'ed, tilled or power raked and starting over with a freshly planted area isn't the best option (if you can stand the expense!). If you just overseed the area, your new grass seedlings are going to be competing with the established weed crop. Unless you even the odds a little, the crabgrass, dandelions and whatever will win that contest.

You might even Roundup the area first to kill off whatever weeds are there as others have suggested, but you would need to look at the calendar to figure out if the comparatively short Minnesota growing season gives you enough time to wait until your target weeds start growing, apply the Roundup, wait several more weeks for it to work and only then prepare and plant your turf seed.

I tend to think that might be a better option if you were doing it in late summer, but a local nurseryman might give you better advice than those of us living in other regions of the country.

Ditto on the type of seed, which is also a regional thing. Brace yourself for the expense, though. I seeded 2 acres a couple years ago and I think we ended up using something like 200 lb./acre. With 50 lb. bags going for $30 - 80 each, depending on what you get, it sure adds up!

 

[BobInMN]

Jim,

What part of MN do you live? I'm about 30 miles south of Mankato.

The way I did my yard when I moved in here was to roto till the top couple of inches then broadcast my seed. I used 2-4-D to control the weeds once the grass was established.

I use to work at a rental store in Mankato. They have a brillion seeder that works great.