Oxy acetylene rig recommendation

[bcarwell]

I took an oxy acetylene course and am now ready to buy a setup. There are alot of choices to get the basic regulators, torch handle, and cutting attachment. I'd like your suggestions. I will be doing fabs and mods for farm implements but on a hobby farm basis. I will be mostly cutting 3/8 plate and holes, bending stock, preheating etc. the usual, but probably welding with a stick welder (e.g. no gas welding)

Basic choices seem to be in order of expense:
1) A "Victor-compatible" set from Tractor Supply, etc. for $50 - $100
2) Piecing together genuine used or new Victor pieces like a 315FC handle and CA 2460 cutting attachment, or a 100FC handle and a CA1350 cutting attachment, etc.
3) A genuine Victor set which appears to run about $250-$290.

My concerns:

I do not want to get a handle which is undersized or oversized or is hard to get replacement parts for, or incompatible with other things like getting a butane cutting tip, e.g. I want the various tips, etc. to be easy to find.

With option 2), there is a bewildering number of models of Victor handles, etc. If I piece the parts together, I want to make sure they are compatible. Is this simpler than I think ? In other words are there only a few basic handles to consider (315 or 100) and its easy to tell what goes with them (2460 cutter assembly for 315 torch or 1350 cutter assembly for 100 torch) ?

I also understand the safety issues (from my course) and don't want cheap crap that may leak, etc. On this issue, even though not "Victor", and given I am not a pro but a farm hobby welder, are the "Victor-compatible" sets just junk or just missing the "Victor" name ?

Is it simplest just to spring for a genuine Victor set ?

Any tips on buying ? Ebay ? Some other website ?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Bob

 

[ultrarunner]

I have both the Victor 100 and 315 torches and keep the 100 torch and accessories on my small portable tanks and the 315 torch on my big tanks in the shop.

Between the two, I would go with the Victor 315 for 3/8 plate. The Victor 100 is smaller and I prefer it for auto body work.

I bought the Victor Brand because they are? (Or were at the time) 100% American Made near where I live in California. I've never needed parts, but it is good to know that everything is readily available.

 

[RonR]

Hi Bob,

I bought a used O/A rig in 1975 at an auction. The previous owner ran a wrecker truck, so I assume he used it a lot. It was Sears gages and the only handle was a HUGE Sears cutting head, probably 3 X the size of a Victor 100. When you fired it up, it went through some GAS!

I used that set up for 5 yrs, even did brazing with the cutting head, which was crude..........

Then I bought a victor 100 handles/tip. Much easier to use. I've cut 1/2" steel with it, but you really have to crank the pressures up. I also did farm type work with it.

Over the years, the gages leaked, and I was able to take them to a welding supply house and they repaired them. This was about 15 yrs ago. I keep waiting for them to fail, and I'll replace them with an inexpensive set; I don't use it enough to warrant high $ stuff.

If you end up piece parting your system and you want a monster cutting head/handle (it's been in my tool drawer since about 1980, PM me and I'll make you a good deal.)

Ron

 

[Ifixcars]

You can't go wrong with a Victor set, imho. We use a victor cheapy line at the shop, and it's worked just fine. We use the heck out of it, and it's taken a beating for about 15 years. The one before that got retired when it got run over. We went cheapy after that. I have a little Victor porta torch set at home, and I like it. Nicer quality, real Victor brass and good regulators and works good too. The cheaper set seems like lower quality brass and regulators, but they have always worked. If you don't mind laying out the cash, quality tools are always a pleasure to use, although they may or may not make you any more money or do a better job. Sometimes picking up a well made tool just makes the job seem easier.

 

[tnau664]

How about tanks to go with the rig? I've got a guy that runs his own welding business during the week, and runs supplies to 2 trade days on weekends. He has a Victor compatable, with 'full' tall tanks on a cart for $300. Does that sound right?

Thanks
Tnau

 

[kennyd]

Bob,
You need to tell us what size tanks you are looking at getting, and what kind of material you will be working with mostly...

 

[RonR]

Tnau,

The thing you need to check, and it should be as easy as calling a couple of gas suppliers, is how does the tank deal work?

Here, I know I have to buy a 10-20 yr lease for "my tanks", which costs about $150 (pay up front) for a 10YR if I recall correctly.

When you need a new bottle, you take your old one in, they give you a new one for the price of the gas.

I think some places now might be doing away with the lease, and you just pay for the gas and whatever charge each time you fill.

Hope this helps
ron

 

[bx23barry]

I would go with a victor set. Unless you can find used pieces a set will be cheaper than mixing and matching. I sure don't want fire/gas/ox in the wrong places so this is the wrong tool to be taking chances on off brands. I've had my little victor set for 25+ years and never had a problem (burned up a few tips and lost some handles). It has done everything I've needed from sheet metal to 1/2" plus. Tips/parts are easy to find anywhere. I think they will be around a few more years too.

 

[bcarwell]

While on the subject of tanks, several questions:

Does anyone know if the Tractor Supply prices are reasonably close to the going rate for their prices for refilling and for new bottles ? And whether they will fill bottles not bought at TSC ?

And what's the deal with trying to get bottles filled somewhere. I think they are "certified" or something with a tag indicating when last tested, right ? And if they're out of certification, how much does it cost roughly and what's the hassle to get them recertified ? Are there only a few places that will do this ? I'm leary about buying used bottles for fear I could only get them filled where the original purchaser bought them from or some inconveninet place. What do fillers require normally before they will fill a bottle, or do they do exchanges or what ? I wanted to buy my bottles, not lease.

Bob

 

[ultrarunner]

High Pressure Cylinders, like Oxygen, need to have a Hydro test date within the last 5 years to refill. It cost me $12.50 last time I had a cylinder Hydro Tested.

It is the same test that is used for CO2 fire extinguishers. I found my local fire extinguisher company much cheaper than having the welding company send it out since the fire extinguisher company did the testing on-site.

Low Pressure Cylinders, like Acetylene, are not Hydro tested.

The Hydro Test date is stamped on the neck of the cylinder along with the mark of the test facility.

I have come across cylinders with original test dates as far back as the 1930's and the cylinders are still in use.

As long as you have the receipt and the cylinder is not stolen, you should not have any problems with owner cylinders.

Larger customer owned cylinders are sent to the gas plant for refill and are not exchanged... you get yours back.

Smaller Oxygen cylinders are often filled while you wait from a series of larger tanks at your welding supply.

I negotiated "No fee" rental cylinders based on the volume of gas we use. The cylinders are exchanged when empty and I don't have to hydro fees every 5 years.