Pasture Maintenance

   / Pasture Maintenance #11  
Hi Mike...

Sounds like you got some good advice... and maybe even a little overly-optimistic advice. God and Mother Nature do a wonderful job of taking care of Their living things, but They treat everything equally... including weeds. It's up to us to segragate out what we want to keep /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.

I'm in the process now of taking what was once good fertile bermuda grass pasture and restoring it to 10-acres of nothing but tiff bermuda. There is still some bermuda scattered throughtout the pasture and I'm first going to attempt to make it spread into the weed infested and open areas. If I'm unsuccessful, then I'll disk and re-seed next spring.

Since I bought the property in late March, I won't be able to Roundup the entire area because the bermuda was already out of dormancy. So, I'm currently spraying the whole 10-acre tract with MSMA. This is a herbicide that will kill most broadleaf weeds, wild onions, nut grass, Dallis grass, crab grass and most other broadleaf grasses. It will not kill bermuda unless you overdose. Using the correct mix rate will stunt the growth of the bermuda for a few days and turn it somewhat yellow, but this is temporary and soon the bermuda will resume it's normal growth... minus the surrounding weeds.

Soil becomes compacted due to constant animal and machinery traffic. When the soil gets compacted, the roots of the grass can't penetrate beyond a couple of inches and this does not make for sustainable grass. I have ordered a core areator, which I'll use to remove plugs of dirt, down to about 6". This will allow the soil room to move and relieve compaction. It also makes the land drain well and puts more air, moisture, bacteria, and nutrients deeper into the soil. This will help build a deeper root structure for the grass and allow it to withstand colder winter months and hotter summer days. Aeration is best done in the spring when frequent rains can condition the aerated soil, but some farmers I know aerate again in mid-summer to allow the roots of the grass to breathe in fresh air.

I've already checked the PH of my soil and it currently has a PH of 7 (neutral), which is ideal for bermuda. After aeration, I will broadcast 19-19-19 granulated fertilizer to put needed nutrients back into the soil. Then I'll sit back and do nothing but mow weekly and help force the bermuda to "run", spot spray any weeds that appear, and hope that our 3-year drought has ended. Bermuda is a grass that grows best when the temps are consistently 70 degrees and above at night and humidity is above 60%. I'm not sure what you plan to have in the form of ground cover, but around here bermuda is KING.

Hopefully, by fall, I'll have all the bare areas covered and the weeds pretty much under control. If you live in the country, you'll always have to contend with weed control because no matter what you do, seeds will blow in from adjacent fields. Next year I'll completely Roundup the whole place in late February or early March before the bermuda comes out of dormancy but after the broadleafs and wild onions have already begun to grow. This will become an annual ritual. Some people also put down a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the seeds in the ground, but it will also kill any bermuda seeds that are waiting to sprout, so I don't plan to use it. Just remember... the thicker and healthier the grass... the less room weeds have to grow.

I hope this helps. I'm not a farmer, but I took time to visit several local farmer's who make their living raising cattle and baling hay. I'd have never attempted what I'm doing without some "expert" advice to guide me in my effort. If all goes well... I'll have 10-acres of thick luxurious bermuda next year and <font color=blue>THEN</font color=blue> depend heavily on God and Mother Nature to help me take care of it /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. As for implements... I'd suggest a good rotary mower, a good finish mower if you're wanting it to look like lawn /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif, an aerator, and a boom sprayer with a capacity of at least 50-gallons.

Good luck...

FarmerBob
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #12  
Mike...

I need to clarify something from my previous post. I am restoring my 10-acre tract as lawn and not for the purpose of grazing animals. MSMA is an organic arsenate based herbicide and may be detrimental to horses and cattle. Make sure you consult your vet before using any herbicide to insure the continued good health of your animals.

Thanks...

FarmerBob
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #13  
I agree with Cowboydoc. I have a pasture that even after only mowing for a few months is already responding well. The grass is far thicker and there's a lot of clover. I'm very pleased with the clover - it's an excellent means to naturally fertilize the soil. I'm not planning on using the pasture for livestock though.
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #14  
Clover is great for horses and cows RPM.

18-35034-TRACTO~1.GIF
 
   / Pasture Maintenance
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thank you all for your responses. It's been a great help. I was debating whether or not to buy a boom sprayer for our riding ring. Something to kill the weeds that the harrow can't get and to keep the dust down. Sounds like the boom sprayer will come in handy for the pasture as well. Plus, I may be able to cancel the lawn service I have for the yard since I will be able to do that as well.
 
   / Pasture Maintenance
  • Thread Starter
#16  
BTW, can anyone recommend a good sprayer? I've seen 50 gallon sprayers w/hand sprayer priced from $300 - $900.
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #17  
Mike,

If you plant red clover, which is what we have over most of our 11 acres, the horses will love it - but they can get something known as the "slobbers."

1) Red clover is a legume, which means that it is capable of nitrogen-fixation (it fertilizes the soil).

2) Because it is a legume, you must allow it to come to seed every 2 years or so, or it will start to die out.

3) Occasionally the clover will become infested with a fungus that causes Black Patch Disease. Basically, the fungus produces an alkaloid that will cause your horses to slobber profusely. Our vet said it's harmless.

Good luck.
hess
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #18  
Mike,

Guess I'm late on this one, have had no time to read this board as of late.

I, as normal, agree fully with Cowboydoc. We bought our place about 2 years ago. The guy sold it as a "horse ranch". A wild mustang ranch maybe...this place is 34 acres and had nothing, no barn, no fencing, no rings, no pasture, no water. It is on a hill top (I'd say mountain top but we're in north Georgia and I've seen the Rockies...we're definitely on a hill) and all we had was rock hard Georgia clay and rocks, lots and lots of rocks. No real grass, just some scrub grass, and that was in patches. If you saw it now it would knock your socks off. Lots of lushes green grass. Thank heaven for lots of rain this year.

I cut my pastures (about 12 acres in pasture) last Tuesday. I had to cut them again yesterday; that's how fast their growing!

The key is chicken manure. I've tried tripple 10, tripple 15, and tripple 19, nothing works like chicken manure. When you put it down it stinks for about 2 or 3 weeks (depends on how much rain you get), and you will find all manor of dead chicks and chicken parts mixed in, which your dog, cat, and every vulcher around will love. But I'm telling you, as long as you get some rain so your grass doesn't burn, it will take off like nothing you've ever seen.

In addition, like Cowboydoc said, I spray 2-4-D about 3 times a year (I take the horses off the pasture for 2 weeks when I spray), I plug aerate about 6 times a year...if not more..and plug aerate (don't spike aerate), and cut the grass when it's about 12" to 15". I still need to get a drag harrow to break up the manure piles.

Hope this helps.

Bill Cook
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #19  
Farmerbob,

Why do you use MSMA and not 2-4-D? How well does it work compared to 2-4-D. And is it more expensive?

Thanks,

Bill Cook
 
   / Pasture Maintenance #20  
Mike, I noticed you mentioned a BX. I have a similar problem with my "back 4" acres and I bought a Furest brand tine harrow. It is available in a 3-point version but mine is the drag behind. It is a wonder on old fields and pastures and combined with a PTO driven spreader like the Herd M96 or similar can be used to loosen the ground and then drag in the seed. Get one. The BX can handle a 8 footer (width) or more but I found the 6 footer more useful because it is more manuverable and I can slalom in and out of my trees and plantings at full speed--pedal to the metal, work my gravel drive and rake my lawn area with it too so I recommend the 6 footer for your proposed BX. I think the company recommends 2 horsepower per foot so with 16.7 PTO horses available maybe a 8 or 10 would be maximim size. I sometimes add weight to it by tieing a couple of 4X4 treated post onto it for more bite. I also agree with the others, mow the Hades ( do not scalp) out of it and it will do better and the grass will be happier. J
 
 
Top