Pat's Easy Hitch Question

   / Pat's Easy Hitch Question #1  

nspec

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
628
Location
Southern Rhode Island
Tractor
Kubota B2630, '53 Farmall Super H, '47 Farmall AI, '44 Farmall A
I love my Pat's easy hitch. One question for other users: The Pat's lift arms seem to have very little room to squeeze onto the lower link pins between the washer on the end and the implement itself. I guess this would be the case for any quick hitch. Are there longer link pins that would make this easier? Anyone else have an issue?
 
   / Pat's Easy Hitch Question #3  
I Are there longer link pins that would make this easier?
Yes. At any farm store. They have adjustable length pins too

//greg//
 
   / Pat's Easy Hitch Question #4  
An issue might be that the longer lift pins would allow the implement to slide back and forth on the Pat's QC during work but especially during transport. The additional force on the sides of the Pat's may cause a failure.

I think the QH is designed to be fairly tight for that reason but contacting Pat's ( Pat's Easy Change System Products Page ) would be the best bet. They are VERY helpful and knowledgeable.
 
   / Pat's Easy Hitch Question #5  
An issue might be that the longer lift pins would allow the implement to slide back and forth on the Pat's QC during work but especially during transport.
Pat's hitch hooks are the same width as the swivel balls on your lower lift balls, so the problem would be the same - with or without Pat's installed.

I believe the actual issue is cheap Chinese lift pins, I've made a few regrettable implement purchases over the years, from places like Rural King and TSC. Some of what they sell come already equipped with (steel colored) lift pins that are too short. I've replaced them with (brass colored) aftermarket pins. The pattern seems to be that the steel colored pins are Chinese, the brass colored pins are Indian.

//greg//
 
   / Pat's Easy Hitch Question #6  
Never had that problem with my PEC. Make sure the lower link arms are tight up against the implement (dead blow mallet or a good kick), then slide the washer, bent flange on top against the lower link "eyeball" and insert the lynch pin (flat side of the pin against the washer).
I think Greg_G has the mostly likely answer. If it is the pins, I think Tractor Supply has them.

What I have found was the spring locking hoop of the lynch pins interfered with the washer's flange on occasion. If that happened, the hoop didn't lock down against the pin.
This appeared to be due the variation in the bend of the washer. Didn't happen with all the washers. A bit of grinding on the flange solved that problem.

Another issue I had now and then was the spring hoop on the lynch pin would pop up and I'd lose both the pin and the washer. I attribute this to the spring locking hoop not being strong enough to lock in place and movement of the implement (RFM mostly) in use.
This problem was solved by using a lynch pin with a stronger spring hoop. They are black and Tractor Supply sells them. You'll know you got the right ones if you can hardly get the spring opened (I frequently had to use a flat blade screwdriver for more leverage).
DO NOT let them spring closed on your fingers!!! If you've ever had a mouse or rat trap close on your fingers...it's about like that.

So, in conclusion:
1) Make sure the spring hoop closes completely (grind the washer flange if necessary)
2) Use the stronger spring hooped lynch pins

And one more: Order a half dozen or so extra washers from Pat's. Might not need 'em, but you're screwed if you don't have one when you need it.
 
 

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