Paver brick install over septic PIPE.

[RCannon]

Hi all,
The spring time project for this year is installing a brick paver patio in the back yard. One of my issues is the septic pipe that runs from the house to the tank. Was wondering if anyone has tips/suggestions/warnings on how to do this without damaging the pipe? I do plan on renting the motorized tamper. Thanks.

 

[chucko]

It might help to know the type of pipe. PVC pipe?

 

[RCannon]

yes, it is PVC.

 

[chucko]

ok it is PVC still need a lot more info

how big is it?
how deep is it?
what kind of soil is over it?
what are you using below the pavers?
what PSI is the pipe?
what psi will the compactor put down?

Ever ho will know the answer (and it is not me) will need to know all of this and maybe a little more....but in general if it were me I would compact up to abot 4" each side of the pipe and then do the area over the pipe by hand. This run a sprinkler on it let it dry out but not all the way and do it again untill I was happy with the base. But I am in Fl in the sand

 

[BB_TX]

I don't think you will have any problems. You already walk over it, mow over it, etc. A buried pipe is strong. Unless you put a strong directed force directy on the pipe, you are not likely to hurt it. A tamper will have a fairly large tamping surface and will spread the impact over that area, not a pointed force directly on the pipe.
If this is a recently installed septic system, you may get a little settling over time. You may have to take up some pavers and add a little sand to bring it back up to grade.

 

[Mark4510]

I think Bill is correct in general terms but it depends on soil and depth. If it is not buried in sand make sure that there are no rocks around the pipe. The reason I know is.....I watered down an area, let it soak in, did a quick wheel roll with the truck and then set up the forms to pour concrete. It was only later when things started backing up into the house that I realized I had punched a rock through the pipe.

If it is over 12

 

[SLOBuds]

I had similar questions regarding a drainage pipe that I wanted to lay over a gravel driveway. The driveway gets some heavy traffic infrequently.

Anyway, I put the drainage pipe inside a schedule 40, 4" pipe. No trouble. Way over-engineering, but no worries now.

The pipe being surrounded/supported by dirt gives it tremendous strength.

Martin

 

[Molerj]

The pipe from the house to the septic tank should be schedule 40. As others said, there shouldn't be a problem unless it isn't sch. 40 & it is shallow. More info needed.

 

[riptides]

Well, it should be at least 3 to six feet down, don't cha think?

Mine is like 5 feet down. I know cause I dug it up looking for it, and a way to punch another line into my system.

-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Junkman]

I need a break from Mopower, so I will tackle this one. All new systems uses either Schedule 40 PVC Sewer pipe, Cast Iron Soil Hub Pipe, Cast Iron Soil No-Hub Pipe, or XH Cast Iron Soil No-Hub Pipe. All of these are very durable. To determine how low in the ground they are, go into the basement and measure down from the sill to the top of the pipe. I am assuming that you have a basement. If not, then we will address that in another post when I learn that fact. Then go outside and measure down from the sill to the top of the soil. Subtract the smaller figure from the larger figure and that is how far down the pipe is in the ground where it leaves the house. Write this figure down. Is your yard flat or sloped? If flat it will make the calculations easier. We will deal with flat first. Measure to the clean out of the septic tank and record this distance. Then approximate the diameter of the septic tank and divide this by two and subtract this figure from the diameter of the tank. This will give you the point where the pipe enters the tank. Mark this point with a stick or rock. Then measure the distance from the wall of the house to the stick in inches and divide this figure by four. Then add this figure to the figure that you determined the pipe to be below the surface where it left the house. The division by four indicates the drop of 1/4" per foot. Generally speaking the line is below the frost level, so compaction should not be a problem. In MA, the first 10' is generally installed as cast iron and then transitions to PVC. Your local jurisdiction may be different..

 

[jimg]

I did this very thing last summer. What I did was dig down about 12" where the walk was going in and hand tamped vigorously. I didnt disturb the soil underneath the pipe though. I back filled w/ stone dust and hand tamped again. (I think there was about 5" or so over the pipe.) I then watered it occassionally over the next couple days to to aid settling. I set up forms and scraped the surface smooth for a bed and dry layed pavers over that. I swept fine sand between the pavers and thats it. Theres been no settling or heaving of the pavers and no problems w/ the pipe. That said the walk is for foot traffic only, no heavy loads. I also didnt use a power compactor b/c I felt it might loosen the soil under the pipe which was settled and supporting the pipe nicely.

 

[srs]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( In MA, the first 10' is generally installed as cast iron and then transitions to PVC. Your local jurisdiction may be different.. )</font>

Junkman, is the 10' cast iron pipe the piece that first exits the house? Wonder why?

 

[Currmudgeon]

Many jurisdictions still require cast iron plumbing in the house, but allow other materials outside. "Outside" usually starts about five feet outside the foundation wall.

If it's got a foot of fill over it, and is in well compacted soil, then there should be no problem, whatsoever, in building a patio over the pipe to the septic tank. I would, however, avoid building over the drain tiles, or driving even light equipment across them much.

 

[RCannon]

Here's the data...
The pipe is schedule 40PVC all the way from the house to the tank. It is approximately 10 inches below the surface at the house in sand/clay/topsoil. The area will be for foot traffic only and I intend to hand dig near the pipe. The rest of the area, I was thinking of rototilling to a certain depth and picking up the spoils with the FEL...the spine ain't what it used to be....or do I need to till it?..keeping in mind I am a rookie with the FEL..

thanks for any input, my wife and I really appreciate it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[slowrev]

I know about the back thing, me too. I don't think any problem at all with just foot traffic on the pavers. !0 inches deep and schedule 40 should be fine for foot traffic and riding lawnmowers, etc... I would till first and then scoop with the loader, this should make the job go smoother, especially if there is grass/sod there, and you would probably have better control with the loader just scooping out the tilled up dirt. You might want to come at the pipe from both sides to aviod running over the pipe with the tractor, 10 inches deep is not very deep especially if the soil is sandy. Best to be safe, a cracked pipe would be a pain in the back to repair.

 

[fivestring]

My driveway is over mine. All three of my vehicles park in and around the line.
There have been no problems in the 8 years the house has been there. (KOW) knockonwood

 

[RCannon]

Thank you to all who have answered. I will have to post some before, during, and after pictures.

This place is a gold mine of help. thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif