PHD advice?

[ronbo3]

I am building a barn for my Kubota L2800, and I will be renting a 3pt PHD to dig the post holes. I will be digging in sand/clay soil, not close to trees, and I want to put my 4"X6" posts 3' in the ground. Do I need a 9" or 12" auger? Also, I'd like to hear any tips, hints, or info on how to use the PHD, since I've never used one before. Thanks!

 

[slowrev]

Are you planning on concreting the posts in or tamping them ?

 

[chim]

I only ever used a PHD once, and without incident. The best advice I can give you is:

A. Don't even THINK about getting near the spinning auger.

B. Make sure you know exactly where any underground utilities are before drilling into the dirt.

Good luck with your project................chim

 

[GerardC]

A 9" should be fine. Use the clay to repack the hole(s). This is what I did and it works out good. Concrete will rot the posts over time.

Have someone help you align the PHD after you start the hole. It will drift and you must readjust to assure a straight hole. Once you get the feel of it, you can do it by yourself. Go slow at first and you'll be fine. G

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue">...4"X6" posts 3' in the ground. Do I need a 9" or 12" auger? </font>
With 4" x 4" posts, I'd recommend a 9" auger. Since you're using 4" x 6", I'd recommend the 12".

Remember, too, that you need room in the hole to tamp whatever you back fill the hole with. A 9" auger would only leave 1.5" on the 6" side of a 4" x 6". You also need room to tilt the post to get it level as well as line it up with the other posts in the fence line.

 

[zuiko]

I would use a 12" because it gives you some room for error.

When you drill, do it at idle speed and clear the hole regularly (by pulling it out and giving it some throttle) so it doesn't screw into the ground.

 

[ronbo3]

I had planned to put a 40lb bag of concrete in with each post along with tamping it in with clay. Will concrete rot a treated post? I have heard both yes and no, but everyone in this area tells me to concrete them in.
When using the PHD, how do I keep it plumb? Do I check for plumb after digging every 6-8", and move the tractor if needed?? How high should the RPMs be to use a PHD? I appreciate the advice to start slow and stay away from the turning auger!!

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> I had planned to put a 40lb bag of concrete in with each post along with tamping it in with clay. Will concrete rot a treated post? I have heard both yes and no, but everyone in this area tells me to concrete them in.</font>
The concrete attracts moisture and that's what accelerates rotting.

<font color="blue">When using the PHD, how do I keep it plumb? Do I check for plumb after digging every 6-8", and move the tractor if needed??</font>
I just eyeballed the auger for plumb before I started digging, then checked it once or twice. Since the 3ph moves in an arc, you usually have to pull the tractor forward slightly to keep the auger plumb. Since the hole is bigger than the fence post, there's room to adjust the post for plumb.

<font color="blue">How high should the RPMs be to use a PHD? I appreciate the advice to start slow and stay away from the turning auger!! </font>
I started slightly above idle and increased rpm only occasionally.

 

[familyman]

I assume you're using pressure treated posts? If so, don't worry about the rot...the posts should last longer than you will. Pressure treated lumber is used in vast quantities in most parts of the country and goes off the lumberyard shelves so fast it's still soaking wet when you buy it. This means it will shrink alot over time, although the end in the ground will dry less than the rest. Concrete? I've concreted PT posts many times for decks, mailbox posts, etc., and they always stay solidly in place, but for your application I think it would be overkill -- a good tamping would work fine. The main advantage to some concrete in the hole, as I see it, is that the next morning when you pull the braces and start to build the posts will be rock solid. It's just alot of extra work and cost.
Let me know how you make out. I'm building a small pole barn in spring '05. I haven't used a PHD on my L2800 yet, but I'm excited about not having to wrestle with a 2-person PHD anymore!

Charley

 

[cisco]

Basically, I agree with MikePA. I've placed about 40 posts (4X4s & 6X6s) 2 years ago, using ground treated wood (it's green tinted when purchased) and concreting such into place -used 300 lbs of concrete around posts which bear the fence gate (6X6s), and 80 lbs around the rest (4X4s). Nothing has moved, at all.
The PHD, quite obviously, has to move in an arc, so you can either drill a hole much bigger than you'll need for the post and concrete, so you can line up the post in the slightly crooked hole, or use a smaller auger if you move the tractor slightly during the hole drilling, to keep the auger near vertical (if a FEL, just place the lower blade of such on the ground, and move the tractor slightly as the PHD drills down). No big deal either way.
Caveats - don't let anyone within a foot or so of the auger (or pto shaft); start slow with the rpm on the auger, and speed up depending on the soil; pull the auger up briefly every foot of digging (depth) or so, to avoid augering the rear of your tractor into the ground (a neophyte "gentleman farmer" neighbor of mine managed to lift the front wheels of his tractor off the ground with an errant auger - had to back out the auger shaft with a large wrench to get his tractor back on solid ground - go figure).
Good luck - you'll have fun.