Picture of the oil leak
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gbirky
Platinum Member
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- Mar 25, 2002
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- Location
- Near Hagerstown, MD
- Tractor
- Yanmar models: YM1110D, YM1301D
It could be fuel, leaking from the fuel tank - I think the tank is above the bellhousing in that general area. It could also be the steering box leaking fluid.
I think you said that the engine oil level is going down also. If that's the case, and you are sure that the oil you see in this area is engine oil, then I'm afraid that about the only possibility is the rear main seal. Is there oil dripping out of the bottom where the bellhousing and engine come together?
I think you said that the engine oil level is going down also. If that's the case, and you are sure that the oil you see in this area is engine oil, then I'm afraid that about the only possibility is the rear main seal. Is there oil dripping out of the bottom where the bellhousing and engine come together?
Its engine oil. a seal that high up on the engine? I forgot to mention, that I had wiped it off, and had only bush hoged 1/5 mile down the road and 1/5 back and had that much oil. Of course it gets a lot worse, after you use it a while. I can't tell if it is leaking out of the bell houseing,because it has run down the side so bad, by the time it would be anyway. But the clutch isn,t slipping at all, as I would think it would be if it were the real seal, leaking that bad. I just don't know the answer, that is why I put it on here.
kayssupply
Platinum Member
I just put a rear main seal in a YM2000, which is the same block as yours. The seal was OK but the gasket was bad. The oil was dripping on the flywheel and slinging out to the same place yours is leaking. If it is leaking the amount you say the rear main may be the problem.
LLove
Bronze Member
Seems strange to me, that the Oil leak is only at this area. If the flywheel is "slinging" the oil from the rear main seal, that it would show up in other areas as well? Just had my 2'nd tractor apart this last weekend, a 1977 YM155d, at that exact same area on each side,is a Allen headed plug going into the rear of the block into the oil gallery's.
You will see alot more if you "Split" the tractor, as if you where going to do a clutch replacement. Which you would have to do anyway to replace the rear main seal.
Best of luck... Keep us informed!
Lloyd
You will see alot more if you "Split" the tractor, as if you where going to do a clutch replacement. Which you would have to do anyway to replace the rear main seal.
Best of luck... Keep us informed!
Lloyd
gbirky
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2002
- Messages
- 640
- Location
- Near Hagerstown, MD
- Tractor
- Yanmar models: YM1110D, YM1301D
Actually, I rather doubt the clutch would slip due to a leaking rear main seal. As with brakes and a leaking brake cylinder, the symptoms are usually grabbing rather than slipping.
I think Reed may be on the right track. The YM1700 engine is probably the same design as most of the old 2cyl Yanmars. The crank shaft main bearings (there are only 2) are at the front and rear of the engine. They are both circular, not split bearings. The front one is pressed into the block. The rear is pressed into a housing that bolts to the rear of the block. There is an o-ring and a gasket that seal this housing to the block. It could be any one of the three leaking - crank seal, o-ring, or gasket.
If you split the tractor and remove the flywheel you will be able to see the area. If you remove the housing, be very careful as the housing supports the crankshaft. You will probably need to support the back end of the crank by removing the oil pan and putting something under the rear pistion rod, or the center of the crank.
I know splitting the tractor seems like a big job, but just take is slowly and you should be OK. One trick I found useful is unbolting the hydraulic pump from the engine before splitting the tractor. This allows the pump to remain with the rear of the tractor, and you don't have to open the hydraulic system.
If you don't need your tractor for snow removal in the winter, then this is a good winter project. Good luck, and don't forget to post with questions if you end up splitting the tractor. All the guys here with experience will be more than happy to help you out with tips and instructions.
I think Reed may be on the right track. The YM1700 engine is probably the same design as most of the old 2cyl Yanmars. The crank shaft main bearings (there are only 2) are at the front and rear of the engine. They are both circular, not split bearings. The front one is pressed into the block. The rear is pressed into a housing that bolts to the rear of the block. There is an o-ring and a gasket that seal this housing to the block. It could be any one of the three leaking - crank seal, o-ring, or gasket.
If you split the tractor and remove the flywheel you will be able to see the area. If you remove the housing, be very careful as the housing supports the crankshaft. You will probably need to support the back end of the crank by removing the oil pan and putting something under the rear pistion rod, or the center of the crank.
I know splitting the tractor seems like a big job, but just take is slowly and you should be OK. One trick I found useful is unbolting the hydraulic pump from the engine before splitting the tractor. This allows the pump to remain with the rear of the tractor, and you don't have to open the hydraulic system.
If you don't need your tractor for snow removal in the winter, then this is a good winter project. Good luck, and don't forget to post with questions if you end up splitting the tractor. All the guys here with experience will be more than happy to help you out with tips and instructions.
I might be able to split the tractor, but as you go on and talk about pulling the oil pan and blocking up the crank and all, I'm not so sure its worth it to me. I'll be 70 years old next birthday, not sure I'm up to all of that. Of course I know that labor is real high here, so not sure what I will want to do. May have to buy a trailer and haul it somewhere to get it fixed, like where I bought it, that is 300 miles away. There use to be a place in Memphis that sold Yanmar tractors and if I can find him he may have a man that does that, for him. I'm going to try to get by with it, for right now. Or if push comes to shove, I may try it myself.
gbirky
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2002
- Messages
- 640
- Location
- Near Hagerstown, MD
- Tractor
- Yanmar models: YM1110D, YM1301D
You can replace the seal without removing the housing. But if it is the gasket or o-ring rather than the seal, then you do have to remove the housing. Actually, now that I think about it, it isn't a gasket, but paper shims to set the end play on the crankshaft. So I guess that it is either the seal, or the o-ring. The thing is, if you go to the trouble to split the tractor to replace the seal, then you may as well replace the o-ring as well. Otherwise, when you get it back together you might find that it still leaks from the o-ring.
