Placing the little BX1500 on stands

[Hawkeye53]

I have to remove all 4 wheels next week to have new tires put on. I really have no other option than to put the little thing up on jackstands. I have the Factory Service manual and they mention nothing about stand placement. There is one grainy photo that shows stands on the frame right in front of the Axels. I am figuring that the front stands can go right on the frame at the very front with the FEL adding some stability.
I am just a bit uneasy about balance at the rear of the tractor. Anyone have any experience with this on the smaller BX tractors?

 

[dodge man]

Yes, all I can add is they are a pain in the butt to get up in the air

 

[Baby Grand]

Before doing anything else, I'd drive some wedges between the front axle & the frame, on both sides.
Leave them there until the work's all done and all 4 wheels are back on the ground to keep the machine from rolling on the front pivot.
I'd also secure the wedges with something, so they can't slip out, but I'm the belt & suspenders type when it comes to safety.
Once that's done, and with the FEL down, I'd get the first jack stands under the rear axle.
If you can get the jack centered, under the rear axle, that would be my first choice.
-Jim

 

[check]

Why can't you just do the front and back separately?

 

[Hawkeye53]

45 miles one way to the dealer. That would be almost 200 miles.
I will wedge the front axel and lift front with FEL then place stands under the frame. I am wondering if the axel stubs can be used for stands. That would let me Jack up the rear end from the draw bar and remove and place jack stands one side at a time.
The frame on these things are so narrow they scare you.

 

[Coyote machine]

Could you run say a 6 x 6" long beam from front to back on each side of the tractor placing them on cinderblocks just high enough for the tires to not touch the ground, so you can remove the wheels all the way around.
You could use a long metal bar as a fulcrum to pry between blocks placed at the end of the beams, so you could lift the rear, then the front, to get the overall height needed to have the tires off grade, after having placed the beams under the tractor. It sounds more complicated than it would be to do, but it would keep the tractor safe and stable. You don't need a lot of clearance, just enough to unbolt the wheels.
I'd loosen all the lug nuts BEFORE lifting the tractor too to make for less movement when in the air.

 

[check]

Where I live the tire in Julio assembly wasn't much more than just the tire itself after you R&R the old tire. So, I kept the old wheel assemblies with the old tires, and now I have them as spares. All I had to do was just come home and put one wheel on at a time. Very easy.

 

[Hawkeye53]

I checked every dealer in a 150 mile radius. They were, in my case, all quite a bit more expensive with rims. My 12 year old tires are pretty much shot.

 

[am122]

Order from the Kubota tractor salesman tires and wheels from the whole goods catalog and you will get a better price than from parts department

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Yes, do try whole goods for wheels and tires, but not sure if the BX1500 wheels were the odd ball ones that got dropped because of size, know the fronts on my BX2230 I have to switch to a new rim size.

I have used a single 3 Ton floor jack on the back under the hitch plate and would use a stack of 2x6s or 4x6s for the front on each side, using the loader to lift the front up.

David