Plowing Experience

[ecard]

I wanted to share my plowing photos with the group. I use an old 2 btm plow with my TC33D Hydro. The ground has to be just a little damp and the plow cuts right through. The corn stalks tend to bind in the plow - what a pain. I did about 1 and 3/4 acre.

No till is for wimps..............

 

[ecard]

Another Pic

 

[RobS]

Wow, I'm impressed. I've never pulled a plow but from what I hear it's a challenge to get set up right. Nice work /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[TerryinMD]

ecard,

Looks like you did a great job! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Did you have any setup problems? In the first photo, do I see a coulter sitting on the ground?

I'm curious because I have a single moldboard and haven't set it up or used it.

Terry

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by TerryinMD on 11/05/01 09:18 AM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[Devildog]

Nice job Eric/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

2001 B7500 HST 302 Fel R4 Tires, Befco BRB60
Semper Fidelis

 

[ecard]

The set up for me was trial and error. I had to remove the cutting disks on each plow blade due to the weeds and corn stalks getting caught.

I adjusted the 3ph arms to angle slightly to help the dirt turnover and the angle of cut was set so the blades angle down slightly.

Also, I have to continually adjust the 3ph height so the plows don't dig to deep - the little boomer just won't pull on the float setting.

ec

 

[Bird]

ec, it looks like you got the job done well, so whatever works is the the way to go, but you really should never have to keep adjusting the 3 point height. If the plow is digging in too deep in the "float" position, then the top link needs to be lengthened a little bit. And you're right, it takes a little trial and error (sure is easier with the hydraulic top link), but the bottom of the plow should be level when it's at the bottom of the trench it's plowing. And for your information, I had a devil of a time myself getting my plows adjusted right before I put the hydraulic top link on the tractor./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[SteveV]

My $.02 is the back of the tractor is being loaded when he raises the three point (two bottoms remember) giving enough traction to proceed. If those rear tires aren't aired down and filled, there may not be enough drawbar pull in what appears to be pretty moist soil. Since there's no dirt in the trenchside front rim, the rig may be pulling the tractor to the highside. This could be detected by measuring the cut to make sure its the advertized (12 or 14 inch both cuts) and adjusting the side to side with the check chains to the proper position. I use the 2 or three page instructions JD gave with the model 50 tractor and plow for setup. JD also had trash kickers to knock the stalks and weeds into the trench to prevent build up and make a neat field when complete. SteveV

 

[Bird]

Good points, Steve. I agree. I use single bottom plows and the only two bottom plows I've used (many years ago) were pull behind instead of 3-point.

 

[SteveV]

All right now you've done it; I went and read the book. The book is for JD Model 40 with 411 or 412 plow(s). Second correction is my 'trash kicker' is really called a jointer. Your changing the length of the top link is the first thing they talk about Second topic is the setting of the coulter(s). Make sure its free, sharp and running 1/2 to 5/8 to the landside centered over the point of the share (or where the point is suppose to be). Third topic is width of cut and how the land the plow with rotating the cross bar crank to set the cut. Lastly they set the mast location and check it for vertical. All this being said and done, looking at the picture of a double bottom behind a Model 40, the blue tractor needs the tires spread for the 2 bottom. Without the extra width, it pulls to the highside when the correct cuts are set. The coulters probably weren't happy with the angle of attack. SteveV