Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need?

   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need? #1  

sierradmax

Silver Member
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Jan 10, 2012
Messages
109
Tractor
1998 Bobcat 763 & 2009 S-175
I planted grass in late spring. I have some strong grass areas growing but with most new lawns, I have quite a bit of weeds. I'm into my 4th cut and have been controling the further outburst of weeds with weed control herbicides and strengthening the grass with fertilizer but the notion I'm getting is to wait until the fall, apply weed and feed and overseed to get rid of weeds for next year. I, like many of you, prefer to do things myself but this is rather new to me and help is appreciated.

For a new lawn, should I aerate? What's the difference with a plug vs. spike?
For a new lawn, should I aerate and slice seed? Or should I just slice seed and wait until next year for strong grass root growth to aerate?
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need? #2  
If you overseed this fall do not use a weed and feed product. The herbicide will hurt the germination of the seed. Wait until spring for the weed and feed treatment. A plug aerator is generally considered the better choice for lawns. Spike aerators contribute to compaction of the soil.

MarkV
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need? #3  
The weeds are annuals and will die off on their own when the weather turns cold. If there are any local clumps, you can pull them (fiskars makes a great tool). Or walk around with a sprayer of roundup and do spot treatments. Don't put down weed&feed within 8-12 weeks of seeding.

I'd use a plug aerator with at least two laps around, then put down starter, then put down seed. Wait until the soil temp is regularly in the 55F range.

Next spring, put down pre-emergent, which will kill any annual weed seeds that may be on the ground. Then do a weed&feed later in the spring. It's not normally good to weed&feed during the heat/humidity of summer, but I suppose it could be OK in some climates.

As you found, seeding in spring is a crap shoot. What happens is that the weeds will grow faster than your turf grass can establish itself. That's why fall is a better time to plant a cool season turf grass. The only grass that can be planted in spring with any success is a warm season grass, which will grow fast enough to compete with any weeds.

Good luck!
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
My largest concern is the amount of weeds I have. I'm at a point where, do I try to salvage what I have growing for grass (i.e. what's listed above) or kill everything, powerrake and hydroseed this fall....
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need? #5  
If the lawn is more than 50-60% weeds, then start over -- it will be easier. If less than 30% weeds, then you can simply kill off the weedy areas and replant in those spots only.
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need? #6  
Where are you lcated and what type of grass did you plant ?
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
My lawn is about 50% weeds. I'm getting the concensus that I should start over in the fall? What is the process?
 
   / Plug aerator, spike areator, slice seeder... Which one(s) do I need? #8  
Here's my process.

1) start applying roundup to weeds a month before it's time to seed, while weeds are actively growing. Allow for the possibility of a repeat application 2 weeks after the first in spots where tough weeds come back.

2) de-thatch whatever grass is still healthy (assuming it's a cool season grass that responds well to de-thatching).

3) aerate with a plug aerator. Spend extra time over bare spots to really loosen the dirt up.

4) put down starter fertilizer.

5) put down seed.

6) water and wait.

Of course, the usual pre-amble applies -- make sure the soil is good and has proper pH, etc...
 

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