Plumbing help please...

[GerardC]

I need to move my toilet that is connected INLINE (right above) with the main drain. When I replace the "WYE" fitting into the main drain, do I need to set it at a 45 to get proper draining? It's going to be moved UP stream about 2 feet and about 5 feet back from the MAIN.I can post a photo if needed.
Thank you in advance. G

 

[GerardC]

Re: Plumbing help please... *DELETED*

Post deleted by GerardC

 

[bgott]

The picture didn't take so I'll wing it.You want to figure out your total run to the main and angle the wye so the pipe from the toilet enters at a rate of 1/4" per foot rise towards the toilet. If you have the room you'll have a sweep ell, five and some- odd feet of drain pipe dropping at 1/4 inch per foot and then your wye. I've seen this kind of set up with a 45 dropping into the wye and with out, it depends on how much of a drop you have to span to hit the main line. A 45 degree drop in itself can let solids stick in the line, If you get over the 1/4 inch per foot they want to see a sweep 90. The 90's I end up using are the short sweep, it's more of a lip to kick the stuff in the right direction as it leaves the fitting. There is some flexibility there depending on circumstances. You need to figure a vent in there, if you don't have a book on that or don't already have a plan I can look it up for you. If it has to be inspected you should ask the inspector what he wants to see, I don't have inspections here. I have, however, been a plumber's helper, have the book and none of the plumbing *I* have done leaks, backs up, makes the toilet glug to flush or vents inside my trailers or houses. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[GerardC]

Let's try this one more time. G

 

[GerardC]

Success!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Onthelake]

bgott
You said something in your post that triggered a question. What causes a toilet to glug when you flush it. I had some plumbing done by a "professional" (new house) and it gurgles when you flush. I'm in Tx and it's in a slab so I can't see how they installed it.

 

[tc35dforme]

Usually a poorly thought out vent /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. As the waste water moves down the pipe, it needs an opening to the world ( vent ) to prevent a suction or siphon. Think of the soda straw with your finger on top. If the waste from the toilet is too long, and not individually vented, the drainage will cause a siphon and could gurgle through the trap. Often the toilet is not individually vented, but the rely on a 'wet' vent from an adjacent fixture. This works fine if the piping from the toilet to the main ( vented ) line is quite short.

 

[bgott]

A trailer house, eh? Is your toilet going to be moved 5' to the left in the picture? 2' over, it looks like the sweep is going to just about run right into the wye. Just as long as you have "some" drop you'll be OK. If you measure the drops and check the plumbing against the codes in a mobile home from the factory I doubt it would pass anywhere. Mobile homes are built to federal specs and inspections, not state or local. If you had the local code required 1/4" per foot drop on the soil pipe from the front bath to the rear drop on a 80' or 100' house it would drag going down the road. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif As long as the effluvient doesn't puddle at the joint the velocity from it dropping down the sweep will be enough to keep it moving down the line. Your upstream vent will work, if you were moving the toilet up past the vent then downstream venting can be critical. If you are putting the toilet upstream from the vent the soil pipe has to be vented within 6' with at least a 2" vent. You would use a 3" or 4" wye or tee with a 2" branch. You would run this at a 45 degree or better angle so the vent is up out of the flooded zone of the soil pipe. tc35dforme is right about the venting causing the glug. By the way, I see you have particle board ( or "Nova Deck") flooring. If you are going to have the bathroom tore up this would be the time to replace all of that with plywood subflooring. Way too much of the last 6 years of my life have been devoted to replacing hamburger wood. It really sucks to have to do it while the unit is occupied. Particle board sucks!!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

On edit...I just looked back, or comprehended /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif your original post ( UPstream) and then looked at your picture again. You might run out of room for a drop. Cut your hole in the floor and then drop your floor flange and closet sweep in and measure your drop. You might be close to flat or uphill. I have a couple of units that work close to flat but it can be iffy. You might end up having to run a separate line to the main drop. I've had to do that to cure problems before. It isn't that big a deal. You just have an extra line to wack off if you move the house. You could tie the required vent into the existing.

 

[GerardC]

Here is a top view of what I'm doing. Hope it's clear. Gerard

 

[rlk]

Bgott,
What do you recommend for polybutylene plumbing like that shown in the picture?

Bob