Pointers wood stove installation needed.

[newbury]

I'm going to install a "small" wood stove (Hearthstone H-III Woodstove) in the apartment in my one of my shops in NE Mississippi, no inspections needed. It will mainly be used when I want to warm up in the winter after working in my unheated shops.

I'm cognizant of general requirements (insulated chimney through wall, stack 2 foot plus above highest point of roof, etc.) but am looking for any "extra" hints the TBN crowd can provide.

Due to placement it will be coming out the back of the shop to the right of the middle of the picture:

with the red ribbed siding.

My first question is there a flashing piece I can buy for a tight seal on the outside?

How do others put flashing around?

It will be going on a concrete floor w/ wood paneling behind it. I was planning on putting up a sheet of cement board w/ metal shield, like durock and a piece of 26 gauge sheet metal, set off an inch from the wall surface for fire protection, but also leave a fair amount of space (20 to 30 inches) from the wall.

Does this sound about right?

I've got 2 layer insulated pipe but don't have a chimney cap, any recommendations?

Any other hints/pointers?

Thanks.

 

[Baby Grand]

This one looked pretty good to me:
16x16 hunting cabin - Small Cabin Forum (1)
I might throw a bit of tin over the wood board to protect it from any heat coming off the stove pipe.
Put a plug at the bottom of the elbow and it'll be easy to clean, too.
-Jim

 

[dadster4]

Frame out a square opening through the wall, with proper clearance around the flue, and cut 26 ga. metal to fit with a round hole for the flue to pass through.
If possible, I would go straight up through the roof with the flue...shorter and cheaper. You can buy a straight cone flashing to fit the flue. Caulk UNDER the perimeter of the flashing and screw every 1" all around the edge...looks like too many, but will not leak!

 

[KennyG]

Technically it would be better to go through the roof but I understand why you might want to go through the wall. Use single wall pipe inside and go as close to the ceiling as code clearances allow. I would suggest not framing a penetration in but using a thimble with double wall pipe. If the wall is too thick you can use two thimbles. On the outside you may need to notch a trim ring to fit the profile of the siding but if you do that and caulk it well it should seal fine. I would also suggest using an elbow with cleanout opening. Go double wall all the way once it's outside. You can find the details on the website for any chimney pipe supplier.

 

[Panik]

Technically it would be better to go through the roof but I understand why you might want to go through the wall.

Along with being technically better to go through the roof it may also be easier than going through the side wall. The reason I say this is if you run through the sidewall you will have to use some sort of bracing to hold your insulated pipe as it runs up the exterior wall. Likely, if you go through the ceiling the entire length of pipe can depend from the roof penetration assembly. Manufacturers generally make roofing kits so that it will help support/brace the hanging weight of the stove pipe underneath the roof. Also depending on the distance between the stove and ceiling you may get a nominal increase in heating efficiency as a result of the increased amount of single wall pipe exposed in the apartment. (Not sure if this actually amounts to much in real life, but the theory seems sound )

 

[westcliffe01]

Stove Pipe, Chimney Pipe, Vent Pipe for Stoves & Fireplaces Best source. If you buy single wall stovepipe, get seamless welded stainless steel. They have it in telescopic sections up to 6ft long. Not several 2ft sections screwed together. And it will last forever.

 

[newbury]

Frame out a square opening through the wall, with proper clearance around the flue, and cut 26 ga. metal to fit with a round hole for the flue to pass through.
If possible, I would go straight up through the roof with the flue...shorter and cheaper. You can buy a straight cone flashing to fit the flue. Caulk UNDER the perimeter of the flashing and screw every 1" all around the edge...looks like too many, but will not leak!

Through the roof requires a hole in my new metal roof. Through the wall, except for flashing, is easier. After years of experience as a roofer I learned that the best way to prevent roof leaks is don't put a hole in the roof.

Technically it would be better to go through the roof but I understand why you might want to go through the wall. Use single wall pipe inside and go as close to the ceiling as code clearances allow. I would suggest not framing a penetration in but using a thimble with double wall pipe. If the wall is too thick you can use two thimbles. On the outside you may need to notch a trim ring to fit the profile of the siding but if you do that and caulk it well it should seal fine. I would also suggest using an elbow with cleanout opening. Go double wall all the way once it's outside. You can find the details on the website for any chimney pipe supplier.

Why "double wall" outside? When I talked to the local hardware guys, who have been there forever, they recommended single wall after I got through the wall. Even though they would have made a lot more profit on the double insulated.

Stove Pipe, Chimney Pipe, Vent Pipe for Stoves & Fireplaces Best source. If you buy single wall stovepipe, get seamless welded stainless steel. They have it in telescopic sections up to 6ft long. Not several 2ft sections screwed together. And it will last forever.

Good link!

But DARN those are expensive! About $600 for a " 6" Thru-the-Wall Support Kit",
Thanks.

 

[rswyan]

Why "double wall" outside? When I talked to the local hardware guys, who have been there forever, they recommended single wall after I got through the wall. Even though they would have made a lot more profit on the double insulated.

The chimney will draw/draft better if it stays hot (plus less creosote buildup) - with single wall pipe it's going to stay considerably cooler than double wall, insulated would.

I'd also vote going up through the roof - the less bends you have, the better the chimney will draw/draft ... plus the chimney will stay warmer (more pipe inside)

The chimney for my double barrel stove up in the shop goes up thru the ceiling and roof ... but the roof is shingles, not metal.

About 5' of single wall to the ceiling, and then 9' of Selkirk double wall stainless, with a stainless cap. It wasn't cheap ... but it's 15 or 20 years-old and still in good condition.

 

[KennyG]

Correct, you need double wall to maximize the draw and minimize creosote. Lots of people successfully run single wall outside but it's definitely not recommended. Small investment considering it will probably last almost forever. I swallowed hard when I cut mine through my new roof, but it worked great and the draft pulls like a jet engine.