Pole barn floor

[raptor]

I looked back through some earlier posts regarding pouring a concrete floor in an existing pole barn, but still have some questions. I'll be adding the floor to a new build pole barn in Southeast Oklahoma, and know zilch about doing it the right way.
I believe I read that a sand cushion 3-4-5 inches is a good idea, along with trenches (beams) for a floating slab floor. If I crisscross the area with trenches, back fill with sand is there anything else I should/need to do? Rebar?
Also, I want to bring in water, and hook up to my septic tank, what's the best way to do that?
Thanks for any help or advice.

 

[Timd]

I've been researching this since I need to put up a shop.
If you go to groups.google.com and so a search for
"Concrete floor for shop/shed" you'll find a really good
thread with lots of info (in rec.woodworking). Here's a
direct link:

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=Concrete+floor+for+shop&hl=en

Timd

 

[raptor]

Many thanks Timd!

 

[StoneHeartFarm]

raptor

I'm watching them get ready to pour my floor right now. They were setting up yesterday for tomorrow's pour. They trenched down around the outside edge between the posts. The area has been leveled and they have set several runs of 1x2 stakes, the tops of which are level. Pipes will rest on the stakes and be used to screed the cement level. I've helped pour slabs this large, but haven't done the set up work, so it's been interesting to watch. My best advice, depending on the size of the slab is to save up and have it professionally installed. Short of that, make sure you have several big strong backs to help. The cement has to be worked relatively fast (since there is so much of it), the work is hot, heavy and messy. I don't mind working with a cement mixer or two at a time, but that's only a couple of cubic feet. When it comes to several yards, that's an entirely different situation. Frankly, if I can manage it, I expect to be sitting in a chair taking pictures while the guys are pouring mine tomorrow. My bones are getting a little too achy for wading through pools of cement.

There is a sand cushion under my barn that's about 2 feet deep. The contractor wanted to remove all topsoil to make sure there would be no drainage problems. Had to go down about 2 feet to reach sand and then refilled the hole with more sand.

SHF

 

[Molerj]

Just my .02 cents worth. I live in Ohio, where the winters can get pretty cold. I had my pole barn floor poured in 1996. I put the drains in & the water hydrants. The floor was poured on a level sub soil with fibers added to the cement. It's been five yrs. & I haven't had any problems. there is one crack in one of the sections but in a 30 X 40 building that is going to happen. Not saying this is the rightway to do it, just the way I did it. The guys that did the pour were union construction workers that did this on the side. I've seen cement that was screen reinforced, rebar reinforced etc. that cracked. About 25 yrs. ago my father & I poured a shed about 8 X 15. Poured right on the ground no reinforcement, no fibers, no joints & there isn't one crack in it.

 

[gerard]

I just helped pour a 40 x 40 barn floor, took 37 yds, and watched two salt sheds poured for a municipality. For the 40 x 40 we had 6 people and did it all in a continuous pour. Not too bad if the truck has the extension boom and can reach the pour area. Wouldn't want to have to wheel barrow that much. Use the fiber mesh, cost a little more but you don't need the wire mesh then. (Or you can use both, overkill but it won't hurt). Everything around here has a base of compacted running crush that the concrete lays on. For big jobs they lay plastic sheeting down and pour on top of that. (Helps retain the moisture in the concrete as it cures and hence slows the cure. The slower the cure the harder the finished product. Thats why you'll often see them lay burlap on top in the summer and keep it watered down). Not rocket science but good to have someone with a little knowledge during the pour. Also need the right tools - power trowel and bull float are a must for a big pour. Hand troweling takes too long. (The 40 x 40 job we did took about $4k in concrete and one of the guys that helped who did concrete on the side said he would have charged $10K to have done the job so my friend saved about $6K by doing it himself.

 

[raptor]

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna try to learn something about this concrete work. Got cousins that work 'crete for a living, guess I need to thump them for some pointers. Course where I'm gonna pour my pad is 650 miles from 'em - wonder if I could lure there for a case of beer?

 

[beenthere]

The plastic under the concrete also keeps the ground moisture from coming up through the concrete after it is poured. That can be very important when wanting a dry concrete floor. For those who don't like to work concrete (too wet) that has plastic under it, then a 1" layer of sand over the plastic will help cut down on that moisture.

 

[Timd]

I was talking with the local Morton Buildings rep a few days
ago and pumped his brains about concrete floors. He said
it's a bad idea to lay plastic directly underneath the concrete.
When the expansion joints are cut the concrete will curl up
where the plastic is cut. So they recommend a layer of sand
inbetween the plastic and concrete.

Timd