pole barn post

   / pole barn post #1  

hernando

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
Messages
249
Location
tennessee
Tractor
dk 4510 kioti and a 450 case track loader
can anyone tell me if poplar would be good for post for a pole barn ? the post wont be in the ground,, they will set on concrete piers...any ideas ?? thanks
 
   / pole barn post #2  
Poplar isn't a very long lasting wood. If any moisture can get at them they will rot pretty fast. Poplar is also pretty easy to split therefor not recomended for structral members. Sorry, later, nat
 
   / pole barn post #3  
I have to agree. Sitting them on concrete peers is probably worse than setting them straight in the dirt. Concrete wicks water and it will travel straight to the bottom of the post. I have 6x6 solid treated post. They have since started building the post in my area by laminating up 3 2x6 treated boards. They are stronger, straiter, and they can control the treating process better for longer rot resistance. I have cut the 6x6 post in half and sometimes you find area where the treatment did not make it all the way to the center.

Chris
 
   / pole barn post #4  
Diamondpilot said:
They have since started building the post in my area by laminating up 3 2x6 treated boards. They are stronger, straiter, and they can control the treating process better for longer rot resistance.
Chris
Are "they" the builders or are they buying laminated material? If it's the builders - what are they using to stick the 2x6's together? I kinda like that idea for my lean to in the spring... so I'm interested now! :D
 
   / pole barn post #5  
I assume they are building themselves. Here in Indiana the Amish build tons of barns. They can do it better and cheaper than most people can do it themselves. The post look like they are glued with something like liquid nails and then spiked with nails.

Chris
 
   / pole barn post #6  
I agree that Poplar would not be a good choice.
Most Poplars now are grown for the pulp and engineered to grow fast only, and fast growing trees are not stong and do not last.

I used 2x6's for my pole barn, just used nails to put them together.
There is no twisting force on them, so they do not need to be well bolted or anything.
 
   / pole barn post #7  
I saw a variation on the built-up column method at a local fairgrounds pole barn recently that made a lot of sense. They used treated 2x6 (3) in the ground only. They staggered the joints above ground and used regular SPF for the longer lengths above ground in the column. I'm going to investigate this more when I build my pole barn to see how much cheaper it is to use non-treated in the non-critical areas and shorter lengths of lumber overall. Also need to consider the engineering issues (i.e. joint spacing, nail pattern) plus the additional labor cost. Anybody have any more info on this technique (good or bad)?
 
   / pole barn post
  • Thread Starter
#8  
the reason i ask is ,a sawmill near me has just sawed up some for post and was trying to sell them to me for a barn....thanks for the info.. good to know
 
   / pole barn post #9  
.

For exterior use you would laminate the beams w Resorcinol or polyurethane (Gorilla glue or equiv). Epoxy would be second best and you would want to add a high density filler. Liquid Nails is not intended for structural connections. And yes, nail or screw in a staggered pattern.

Oh BTW, Resorcinol requires stricter temperature controls while curing than polyurethane.

.
 
   / pole barn post #10  
Poplar trees in my area of Michigan are the ones that are always falling down in wind storms and when they lay on the ground for a while they break down very fast. Like someone already wrote, moisture damages them very fast. My Jack Pine trees when they break and land on the ground it takes quite a while for the wood to break down. Poplar has its uses but I don't think they would make good poles.
 

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