pole barn post

[hernando]

can anyone tell me if poplar would be good for post for a pole barn ? the post wont be in the ground,, they will set on concrete piers...any ideas ?? thanks

 

[Nat]

Poplar isn't a very long lasting wood. If any moisture can get at them they will rot pretty fast. Poplar is also pretty easy to split therefor not recomended for structral members. Sorry, later, nat

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have to agree. Sitting them on concrete peers is probably worse than setting them straight in the dirt. Concrete wicks water and it will travel straight to the bottom of the post. I have 6x6 solid treated post. They have since started building the post in my area by laminating up 3 2x6 treated boards. They are stronger, straiter, and they can control the treating process better for longer rot resistance. I have cut the 6x6 post in half and sometimes you find area where the treatment did not make it all the way to the center.

Chris

 

[fishpick]

They have since started building the post in my area by laminating up 3 2x6 treated boards. They are stronger, straiter, and they can control the treating process better for longer rot resistance.
Chris

Are "they" the builders or are they buying laminated material? If it's the builders - what are they using to stick the 2x6's together? I kinda like that idea for my lean to in the spring... so I'm interested now!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I assume they are building themselves. Here in Indiana the Amish build tons of barns. They can do it better and cheaper than most people can do it themselves. The post look like they are glued with something like liquid nails and then spiked with nails.

Chris

 

[CharlieTR]

I agree that Poplar would not be a good choice.
Most Poplars now are grown for the pulp and engineered to grow fast only, and fast growing trees are not stong and do not last.

I used 2x6's for my pole barn, just used nails to put them together.
There is no twisting force on them, so they do not need to be well bolted or anything.

 

[jml755]

I saw a variation on the built-up column method at a local fairgrounds pole barn recently that made a lot of sense. They used treated 2x6 (3) in the ground only. They staggered the joints above ground and used regular SPF for the longer lengths above ground in the column. I'm going to investigate this more when I build my pole barn to see how much cheaper it is to use non-treated in the non-critical areas and shorter lengths of lumber overall. Also need to consider the engineering issues (i.e. joint spacing, nail pattern) plus the additional labor cost. Anybody have any more info on this technique (good or bad)?

 

[hernando]

the reason i ask is ,a sawmill near me has just sawed up some for post and was trying to sell them to me for a barn....thanks for the info.. good to know

 

[Danno1]

.

For exterior use you would laminate the beams w Resorcinol or polyurethane (Gorilla glue or equiv). Epoxy would be second best and you would want to add a high density filler. Liquid Nails is not intended for structural connections. And yes, nail or screw in a staggered pattern.

Oh BTW, Resorcinol requires stricter temperature controls while curing than polyurethane.

.

 

[Farwell]

Poplar trees in my area of Michigan are the ones that are always falling down in wind storms and when they lay on the ground for a while they break down very fast. Like someone already wrote, moisture damages them very fast. My Jack Pine trees when they break and land on the ground it takes quite a while for the wood to break down. Poplar has its uses but I don't think they would make good poles.

 

[VA Rebel]

I just had a 4 board fence put up out of poplar and the company gave me a 25 year warranty on it. I would look into it a little more before you scrap the idea.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

here in NE Ks Morton buildings have been using the laminated posts for about 10 years. There are a couple of "tube glues" on the market now that are rated for wet treated lumber. I like the idea of using treated in the ground with spf lumber above ground both for the cost savings and the lesser chance of getting one of those nasty green splinters stuck in me.
I built a 24X40 pole barn with 10' side walls several years back using the laminated green plan and it's held up very nicely.
I let the boards dry out a bit before gluing them together so the glue would stick better, then used a combination of 16p nails and deck screws to hold them together.
Nails have better shear strength than screws, but the screws are better at holdong the boards together tighty while the glue sets. If I could have found some decent ring shanks at the time those would probably have worked as well.
I also orient the laminated posts so I can see the lamination until I put the skin on -- seems to give better strength for wind shear. it also lets you sandwich your rafters between the 2 outside boards so you don't need to buy hurricane straps.

not sure i can answer as to the suitability of poplar for pole barn walls, but sycamore is a poplar and it seems to get used out my way for a lot of different things with no ill effects. (also makes nice furniture)
so long as its properly dried, you should be fine - especially if you can borate treat it before sealing, which will help prevent bug and rot. (seal it, because borate is very water soluble and will leach back out/wash off if it gets wet)

Cottonwood is another option - once kiln dried, it's strong and hard, and was used to make a lot of barns and houses 100 years ago that are still in use out here.

good luck!

when attaching to piers, how are you attaching the posts? I like using a pier anchor out of galvanized steel which holds your post up so it can drain. (Lowes & home Despot sell one from simpson strong tie)

 

[MarkV]

can anyone tell me if poplar would be good for post for a pole barn ? the post wont be in the ground,, they will set on concrete piers...any ideas ?? thanks

Keep in mind that with a true pole barn much of its strength comes from the force the ground applies to the pole. With the poles set on piers you create a hinge point which is not very resistant to side loads like wind. Because pole barns are not sheathed with plywood or OSB like a house you need to add a lot of diagonal bracing with the poles set on piers.

I don稚 know about the poplar. Yellow poplar here in the south does not last that long yet some northern poplars have been used as siding for years. I壇 find out what type of poplar was milled and do some checking.

MarkV

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

Poplar, just like birch and cottonwood, will rot in a heartbeat if you let it fall and lay on the ground. If you debark, saw, and dry it, it will make usable lumber, so long as it is not constantly exposed to the elements.
If you're planning on putting siding on the pole barn, it should work fine. If you're planning on just putting a roof on the structure and leaving the poles out in the elements, I suggest you use green treated.