Pole barn question

   / Pole barn question #1  

rickyb01

Silver Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
216
Location
Mayflower
Tractor
1976 Deutz 3006 1962 John Deere 1010
Had a guy quote me a pole barn build for a roof only and he said only treated lumber was the 6x6 post. He said using treated lumber was a waste of money because it will never come in contact with the weather. Does this sound right?
 
   / Pole barn question #2  
Had a guy quote me a pole barn build for a roof only and he said only treated lumber was the 6x6 post. He said using treated lumber was a waste of money because it will never come in contact with the weather. Does this sound right?

Yes

Only the posts and grade board (2x8 around the bottom of the barn) are treated.. Most cases when laminated columns are used they only treat the bottom 48" (what goes in the hole)
 
   / Pole barn question #3  
It does sound right, but I still used it for my roof overhangs and mutton chops. More expense for more insurance--one time deal DIY. I have heard of PT plywood sheathing the 1st 24" if you were siding it, but it should never see weather with a sound roof.
 
   / Pole barn question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks guys and I hope it's a sound roof. I will have 12 sides and later will add the side sheds. He also figured trim on eaves so I think non treated will work. Like someone posted cca is just more insurance.
 
   / Pole barn question #5  
I doubt if this is relevant to your area but just as an interesting note when we build houses in Haiti we use treated lumber for the rafters as the termites won't bother the wood then.
 
   / Pole barn question #6  
Treated dont necessarily mean more insurance.

Treated eats metal that isnt properly coated. So you have to make sure you use all the correct fasteners. Then the issue where metal roofing or trim touches the treated lumber....
 
   / Pole barn question #7  
Treated lumber is for a insect ( termite ) deterrent not rot. If a rot proof product for wood was manufactured the EPA would shut that down in a heartbeat.

That above grade will last a long time being it is allowed to dry but the post will rot in the first 6-8 inches below grade where the moisture and oxygen ratios are best for rot and a magnitude of other things.
 
   / Pole barn question #8  
Dad and I built a pole barn 35+ years ago using telephone company's old creosote poles. I am now putting the place back into shape to retire too soon. Nothing but the poles were treated. Two poles rotted of the 12 total poles. The double 2x10's (one resting on a notch in the poles) that spanned the 16' stalls to support the 2x4 wooden trusses we built are rotting. They are under the tin roof (3:12 pitch) about 16" from the drip line. The 2x4 trusses are in good shape. I will have to do something to the beams soon and expect to add a treated 2x8 bolted through the double 2x10's. The inside 2x10 is clearly better than the outside. If Dad saw the rot he would have wished he used treated 2x10s. He would be happy with the untreated trusses and the untreated 1x4's runners that span the trusses and support the corrogated tin.

As for reinforcing the rotting 2x10' I thought about putting a treated 2x8 on hte inside and covering the outside face of the 2x10 with something that is waterproof to stop the decay.
 
   / Pole barn question
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I'm leaning toward using treated truss supports also. I'm thinking for 40.00 extra dollars it's worth it.
 
   / Pole barn question #10  
I'm leaning toward using treated truss supports also. I'm thinking for 40.00 extra dollars it's worth it.

I get accused of over building things all the time, but there is absolutely no need for a treated truss. Save the money and put it into something else on the Polebarn.
 

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