Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const.

   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #1  

Scotty370

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
896
Location
Buffalo, New York
Tractor
318 John Deere, 4200 John Deere, 1947 John Deere "M"
I'm looking to build a, say, 24' x 30'. garage, pole-barn fashion. What do you folks think of this 'brainstorm'! I'd like to auger the perimeter holes, put 10" sono-tube in them, hang an all-thread rod (3/4"?) with 2x2 plates on them, into the sono-tube, and pour the floor and sono-tubes first! I'd probably isolate the floor-pour and tubes, with expansion material or tar-paper. That would give me a big flat surface to do three things. First, park and cover equipment if I don't get the superstructure built, year one. Second, it would give me a flat surface to layout trusses (Rough-cut amish hemlock) and plate them. Third, a great base for working and lifting the truss's, or other material with a FEL.
I know this is 'backwards, as the floor is usually poured last, but the above advantages, got me thinkin', a dangerous thing :eek:! I'd buy 4-1/2"x
.250, square tube, and dice it up in 4" lenghts, cut off the top, and bolt them on the 3/4" bolts that I'd leave up a bit above the floor elevation. My post would set in those, with a cross-bolts. I know two of the arguments are: (1) Wood posts in the ground, anchor the thing from blowing away! (2) They provide verticle stability. My counter would be: I'm not in Hurricane/Tornado country. Snow load would be my challange, and that shouldn't be an issue. With OSB board, or plywood, I'd have the vertical stability, to prevent from 'racking'. What am I missing? (Besides convincing the Building Inspector!!!!~Scotty
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #2  
If your planning on sheeting the walls with osb/plywood sounds almost like you'd be better off stick building it the way your talking.
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #3  
I'm also thinking that this post should be under projects but could be wrong. I think Build it you self is more for implement type builds. No big deal I'm sure someone will move it
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Guess you might be right! My thought was I'd have the 4x4's suport the roof load at 5-8' centers, but I guess you've brought me full-circle! Sorry about the Catagory violation!
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #5  
I have built both ways (post in the ground and on top of floor) with equal success and I am in tornado country. I would suggest 1/2"x10" anchor bolts every 4', with one of these at each 4x4 post. Let them extend 3" above finish floor, bolt down 2x4 plate and at each post bolt down( on top of plate) an L bracket made from 4"x6"x 1/4" steel angle, cut 3" wide. The 6" portion of the bracket you bolt to the post. This has worked well for me and many other builders in my area.
 
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   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #6  
24' trusses are rather cheap here and are rated for our snow loads. Why mess around building them?

As for pouring the floor first, just stick build it if your going to do that much work right from the start.
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #7  
I'm looking to build a, say, 24' x 30'. garage, pole-barn fashion. What do you folks think of this 'brainstorm'! I'd like to auger the perimeter holes, put 10" sono-tube in them, hang an all-thread rod (3/4"?) with 2x2 plates on them, into the sono-tube, and pour the floor and sono-tubes first! I'd probably isolate the floor-pour and tubes, with expansion material or tar-paper. That would give me a big flat surface to do three things. First, park and cover equipment if I don't get the superstructure built, year one. Second, it would give me a flat surface to layout trusses (Rough-cut amish hemlock) and plate them. Third, a great base for working and lifting the truss's, or other material with a FEL.
I know this is 'backwards, as the floor is usually poured last, but the above advantages, got me thinkin', a dangerous thing :eek:! I'd buy 4-1/2"x
.250, square tube, and dice it up in 4" lenghts, cut off the top, and bolt them on the 3/4" bolts that I'd leave up a bit above the floor elevation. My post would set in those, with a cross-bolts. I know two of the arguments are: (1) Wood posts in the ground, anchor the thing from blowing away! (2) They provide verticle stability. My counter would be: I'm not in Hurricane/Tornado country. Snow load would be my challange, and that shouldn't be an issue. With OSB board, or plywood, I'd have the vertical stability, to prevent from 'racking'. What am I missing? (Besides convincing the Building Inspector!!!!~Scotty

Don't see why your ideas won't work.

I built my 20'x28' pole frame tractor shed last year in a pretty conventional style using 4x6 pressure treated posts with Simpson post bases embedded in concrete footings.

DSCF0196Small.jpg


My Mahindra 5525 and its FEL with clamp-on bucket forks came in handy for installing the 4x12 x 14'L beams on the tops of the posts.

The final result:

DSCF0014Small.jpg


DSCF0094Small.jpg
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #9  
What is your soil tipe .What is the bilding being yoused for.Where are the doors. Will it be heted if large itoms what size of a footprint. How deep dos the frost go.Bilder and Farmer ovet 40 yrs.
 
   / Pole Garage Question... a 'lil backward const. #10  
Here in SC if we build a pole barn using "cut" lumber for corner posts, poles that have been cut with a sawmill, such as 4x4 or 6x6, we have to pay taxes on it. If we build it out of round poles for corner posts, it is considered a farm structure and we do not have to pay taxes on it or get a building permit. Something to think about. It may be different in your area but worth checking in to.

I built mine out of old power poles with steel bar joists as rafters. But we all seem to build out of whats available to us at a good price.
 

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