post frame building

   / post frame building #1  

mechanic

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missouri
I found a company that builds stud frame and post frame metal buildings. I got a bid for a 30x30 with 10x8 overhead door 2 windows and walk door with concrete for$14200. We live in a county that requires permits and inspections. I looked at the building plans and they put the treated 6x6 posts 10 feet on center. Is this standerd for this size of buildings. He has really good views on facebook and has a A PLUS RATING WITH BBB. His wall and ceiling are 24 on center. Every thing has the double bubble vapor barrier. Also he puts a vapor barrier under the concrete. What do you think??? The walls and ceiling are the 2x4 24 inch on center
 
   / post frame building #2  
I take it that normal stick framing goes in between the 6x6 posts ? What is the height of the walls ? Are there roof trusses or normal stick rafters ? I wouldn't be using 2x4s for roof rafters unless it is a truss style. The outside walls are metal ? This price seems to be low considering it includes the concrete slab. How thick is the concrete ? I am looking to build a 40x60 pole barn and bids are twice what you got and mine includes no concrete.
 
   / post frame building #3  
I found a company that builds stud frame and post frame metal buildings. I got a bid for a 30x30 with 10x8 overhead door 2 windows and walk door with concrete for$14200. We live in a county that requires permits and inspections. I looked at the building plans and they put the treated 6x6 posts 10 feet on center. Is this standerd for this size of buildings. He has really good views on facebook and has a A PLUS RATING WITH BBB. His wall and ceiling are 24 on center. Every thing has the double bubble vapor barrier. Also he puts a vapor barrier under the concrete. What do you think??? The walls and ceiling are the 2x4 24 inch on center

Sounds like a pretty good price.

There really is no "standard" for post spacing. Other than keeping it with a number that works out with common building material and the dimensions of the building. Like 8', 10', 12, etc.

Since you want a 30x30...10' is pretty normal. What other spacing would you use? I be if you asked him to build you a 32x32, he would have quoted 8' OC posts.

Same with truss spacing. Trusses can be engineered to be spaced however far apart you want. 2, 4, 8, 10, 12' on center etc. There is alot of factors that go into what you select. You could build with 10' OC trusses, and only need 4 of them to do the job. Trusses will cost more for each one, but probably cheaper overall since you would only need 4 instead of needing 16 of them with 2' spacing. And you wouldnt need a doubled or tripled 2x12 for them to sit on as they would sit directly on top of the posts. But it presents a whole other set of challenges if you want to finish the interior ceiling. So general rule on a barn is 2' or 4' trusses if you want a finished ceiling. And if no finished ceiling, space them at whatever the posts are and sit them directly on top.

Same goes for the wall girts. (assuming horizontal) To save money alot of barns are built with 30" spacing. But if you are gonna finish the inside with insulation and sheathing, 30" spacing dont work out well with either.

So I ask....whats the plans for the interior?

Price sounds pretty good for a turn key building.

I take it that normal stick framing goes in between the 6x6 posts ? What is the height of the walls ? Are there roof trusses or normal stick rafters ? I wouldn't be using 2x4s for roof rafters unless it is a truss style. The outside walls are metal ? This price seems to be low considering it includes the concrete slab. How thick is the concrete ? I am looking to build a 40x60 pole barn and bids are twice what you got and mine includes no concrete.

Prices are hard to compare. Its a regional thing. And your prices that are twice what his is....how much site prep work? Leveling the ground? Wall height, etc.

But you get quoted ~30k for 2400sq ft which is $12.50 per sq ft without concrete.

Assuming his concrete is ~4-5" thick, thats only 11-14 yards. And at ~$200-$250/yd finished, hes looking at ~$3000 for the concrete portion. So take that off his total and he is paying ~$11,200 for the structure. Which comes out right about the same $12.50 per sq ft
 
   / post frame building
  • Thread Starter
#4  
It is going to be built with engineer truss put at 5 feet on center with the floor being 4 inch concrete
 
   / post frame building
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I would get more bids and check them out on the web
 
   / post frame building #6  
When you said ceiling at 24" OC, I guess I thought you were talking about the trusses.

Now I am not sure what you are talking about. Are you talking about a ceiling....that attaches to the bottom of the truss?

Or are you talking about the "roof"....where the metal roofing attaches? Those are called purlins....and YES, 24" OC for those is standard.
 
   / post frame building
  • Thread Starter
#7  
those are the truss that hold up the roof 5 foot center and purlins are laid flat at 24 inch center.
 
   / post frame building #8  
Sounds good. If you plan on a ceiling (to enclose and insulate it), I would consider bringing the truss spacing down to 4 feet, since that is the recommended maximum spacing for support of metal liner panel. In fact, if I was doing it I would go to 30 x 32 or 30 x 36 to get everything to work out on 4 foot spacing for the trusses. In addition to the ceiling, it allows roof purlins to be be 2x4 flat with lots of support margin. Just a personal preference.
 
   / post frame building
  • Thread Starter
#10  
What do you think about the posts in the ground. Builder told me the posts are CCA and .60 treatment or 60. I can't find reason to turn down the price since I will not be finishing it inside. I had the vinyl back in sulation years ago and recently sold another house with a shop that had the same stuff and had problems with it being wet all the time. Even went on the roof to seal screws and check for loose screws and almost slid off. Come to believe it was condensation all the time and almost broke my body trying to find out the problem was. I'm going with the double bubble this time. foam board does not let you tighten the screws enough and the screws lossen after time because of the expansion and contraction of the stuff. Later I will come across a cheap pellet stove and put it in if price is right.
 

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