Post Hole Digger attachments
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JOHNTHOMAS
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2008
- Messages
- 7,719
- Location
- Somerset, Ky
- Tractor
- F2690 4WD RTV X1140 MX5400 HST ZD1211
I bought Lowe's left over trees for one price a few months ago. There were 50+ so I "had" to buy a posthole digger. Bought mine from Barlows and not sure if it was $500 or $600 new. Call or contact Barlows and they can tell you brand and price. I may have pictures and will post to this if I do. Dug all my holes and my brothers and a hole for a neighbor for his mailbox. I bought the 12" auger and I also have clay and rocks. Dug about 10 more holes a couple of weeks ago for some trees I'm going to plant soon. You will get informed that you need a BH for planting trees and you need to make holes really bigger than PHD etc, etc. I did PHD and they are doing OK for left over 1 year guaranteed trees. My brother is a certified Master Gardener and has a magazine cover yard and he grinned at the don't use a PHD for trees stories. I would use a BH if I had one, maybe but for 50 trees I doubt it. PHD is alot cheaper than BH.
JOHNTHOMAS
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2008
- Messages
- 7,719
- Location
- Somerset, Ky
- Tractor
- F2690 4WD RTV X1140 MX5400 HST ZD1211
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
I have a 'Leinbach Line' unit with a 9" bit. It is a smidge on the big side for my BX, but my dealership has them new for ~$350. He sells them beside the 'Bush Hog' brand PHD's which go for closer to $700. The Leinbach Line units are a little rougher, but who cares when you're digging a hole? As long as the thing works...
A fellow TBN'er bought it from my local dealership and used it to complete a particular project at his house and sold it to me, so it has a little mileage on it without any problems. I've dug 8 holes with it without an issue.
This is one of those things that I'd hate to blow $600+ on because of the frequency of use...but $300 gets you in the hunt.
A fellow TBN'er bought it from my local dealership and used it to complete a particular project at his house and sold it to me, so it has a little mileage on it without any problems. I've dug 8 holes with it without an issue.
This is one of those things that I'd hate to blow $600+ on because of the frequency of use...but $300 gets you in the hunt.
Woodsmoker
New member
Hi Keith,
I'm in Winchester and am looking for a PHD. I'd certainly drive to F'burg to get one at the $375 price. Who is your dealer and do you know if they have any more.
Art in Winchester
I've owned a PHD for years, and after borrowing my neighbor's post pounder last weekend, I'll never use a PHD again. That pounder puts a 6" round post 4' into the ground in about 30 seconds. We have very rocky soil and the auger is forever getting hung up on something, then I have to dig it out with all kinds of bars and sledge hammers. The pounder just goes right through it all.
Tom_H
Veteran Member
If the clay is dry, it will be hard and a regular blunt tip will just spin around and around. You need to do one of the following:
1.) Moisten the soil in the places you want to dig. Saturate it enough for the water to seep the full depth you want to go. Then wait a couple of days for the moisture level to decrease. If you dig too soon, it will be a mucky soup. There is a point with clay at which the moisture content is just right and it is very easy to dig. Just a little too much water, the hole just keeps filling with mud. Just a little to dry, and it is too hard.
2.) Use a fishtail tip, preferably carbide, and downpressure. Downpressure can be done with a hydraulic downpressure attachment, or by adding ballast to the top of the PHD frame. I have several posts and pictures of my custom modifications (using this technique) in the archives.
1.) Moisten the soil in the places you want to dig. Saturate it enough for the water to seep the full depth you want to go. Then wait a couple of days for the moisture level to decrease. If you dig too soon, it will be a mucky soup. There is a point with clay at which the moisture content is just right and it is very easy to dig. Just a little too much water, the hole just keeps filling with mud. Just a little to dry, and it is too hard.
2.) Use a fishtail tip, preferably carbide, and downpressure. Downpressure can be done with a hydraulic downpressure attachment, or by adding ballast to the top of the PHD frame. I have several posts and pictures of my custom modifications (using this technique) in the archives.
Movintgt
New member
Beezfun
Don't know if anyone has mentioned this one yet, probably so but...I've drilled about a hundred holes with my post hole digger and have got the auger stuck in about 25 of them. I use an 18 Inch pipe wrench with a 4 foot cheater pipe on the handle and just back the auger out of the hole. Usually works well although I've just got stuck in the same hole again but I've learned to be very proactive on stopping the PTO and pulling the auger out at the first sign of it sucking into the hole. After the first 50 I got pretty good and only got stuck a couple times. I have chewed up the top of the auger a little with the pipe wrench so I may have my neighbor weld some ridges on it but it works and saves a lot of sweat with bars and sledge hammers.
Don't know if anyone has mentioned this one yet, probably so but...I've drilled about a hundred holes with my post hole digger and have got the auger stuck in about 25 of them. I use an 18 Inch pipe wrench with a 4 foot cheater pipe on the handle and just back the auger out of the hole. Usually works well although I've just got stuck in the same hole again but I've learned to be very proactive on stopping the PTO and pulling the auger out at the first sign of it sucking into the hole. After the first 50 I got pretty good and only got stuck a couple times. I have chewed up the top of the auger a little with the pipe wrench so I may have my neighbor weld some ridges on it but it works and saves a lot of sweat with bars and sledge hammers.
