post hole digger questions

[JohnnyD]

Hey guys, As usual, the only thing I have to offer this foum is my ignorance. OK, first of all, this is my first tractor, haven't even used tractors alot prior to buying my B-21 about a month ago....(violins). Here goes, I hope it makes sense. I purchased a Land Pride #PD-15 PH digger with 9" x 48" auger. The directions for attaching to the tractor show the 3-point hitch top link being used. I know the directions are somewhat generic since the implement is designed to be used on a variety of tractors, but for the life of me, I can't see how you can possibly attach the top link to the boom of the PHD. Physically., the two items will not attach with just a pin with out cocking the boom to one side or the other. I attached the boom of the PHD directly to the tractor where the top link would attach and the drill moves quite freely up and down. One problem though. When the boom is in the full up position, the auger tip just drags hits the ground. If it came up anouther 2-3 inches, it would clear the ground and plumb itself much more easily. Even if I could hook the top link up, it appears that this would further worsen the problem by directing the gear box closer to the ground. Is it possible that some tractors require the top link while others dont? Are all 3-point hitches not the same? While you guys are at it, just how much user input is nessesary (when one knows what they are doing) when guiding the auger to the ground? Is a little sway gear box normal when drilling? Are there any other www resources that one can go to with some general tips/advice on using PHD's? Should I just stick to a 36" Murray lawn tractor? As always, thanks in advance for any help. John

 

[Spencer]

All the PHD that I have seen have the boom hooked directly to the toplink bracket without using the toplink. On smaller tractors you may have to get a PHD that uses shorter augers. My Bush Hog model 2102 uses 48" augers and with the PHD raised I still have a good 18" or so clearance from the ground. You may need to return your unit and buy one that uses shorter augers.

Spence

 

[Keoke]

Johnnny, the digger hooks directly to the center link pin bore not the center link. The B21 is a low riding tractor (small dia. back wheels) and thats why the auger tip drags the ground.
As Spencer says, get a shorter auger or consider adding 3 inches length to the digger where it hooks up to the 3 point lift arms. This should get your auger tip 3 inches higher.
Also, if your draft links have more then 1 set of holes for attaching the pair of lift links, if so, then make sure you are hooked in to the set of holes that is as close to the tractor as you can get. This will get you more lift. You may also consider drilling a new set holes on draft links closer to the tractor to get more vertical lift as well. Drilling a new set of holes would be less work then extending the digger arms.
Lot's of luck with you new tractor!!

cheers,

 

[Old_Wanker]

<font color=blue>On smaller tractors you may have to get a PHD that uses shorter augers</font color=blue>

Im thinking that you were just typing too fast here? Theres no difference between a PHD that uses long augers or short augers.

 

[Old_Wanker]

Sounds like you have it figured out pretty much. Just like whats been posted you attach the end of the boom directly to where the top link usually fits. The trick on a low riding tractor is to then attach that U shaped piece to the lowest hole on the boom - just like it shows on LandPride's web site ...

If that fails to give you enough clearance then youll need a shorter auger. You can buy a shorter one and return what you have or you can shorten the one you have already. Its a pain to do yourself (although Ive done it recently). You could look up your local machinist or welding shop and Im sure theyd do it for you at a reasonable cost. You can do it yourself if you have a drillpress, an angle grinder and some patience.

Worst case is that you just return the auger - I dont see why youd need to return the PHD unit too - unless perhaps you need the full 48" depth. Most cases Ive seen have only needed 2-3 feet depth though, not 4.

 

[WVBill]

I had the same problem when I rented a PHD for my B6100. Here's what did: To transport the PHD, set the 3ph on lower and backed up 'till the auger was nearly horizontal. I then ran a chain around the auger near the point and up over the boom of the PHD to keep the auger from dragging on the ground and raised the 3ph. When I wanted to dig a hole, I lowered the 3ph till the auger was laying down, and took the chain off. Then I raised the 3ph till the auger tip was dragging the ground and backed up 'till the tip of the auger was where I wanted my hole. Then I pulled forward until the auger was vertical and started drilling. This even gave a bit of down force for the first inch or two of travel. When I was done, I raised the PHD, backed up till the point was out of the hole dragging on the ground, backed up and lowered the 3ph, re-did the chain and went from there.

A bit tedious but it worked.

 

[JohnnyD]

Problem figured out ! ! ! I had the PHD optimized on the lowest hole before I originally posted. When I was looking around at the main lift arms for the rear hydraulic unit, I noticed an adjustable linkage that came off it. It did not seem that I had to much to loose, so I tried lengthening the linkage by about a 1/4". When I started the tractor back up, the auger came up 10" off the ground! I then tried lengthing the linkage by anouther 1/4", but there was no change in the hieght of the auger so I backed it back in to the original 1/4" that I came out. I dug about 15 hole this afternoon and the unit worked mint! As always, this forum is a great place to learn and share ideas. Thanks for all the help again. John