Well, after some time and a good deal of soul searching, I bought a 4410 w/fel and bush hog. haven't had too much opportunity to play w/my new "toy," but I'm wondering if anyone out there has much experience with using a post hole digger? Another question is whether the quick coupler attachment is worth buying and if so/what would be the price of one. Thanks, HB
post hole digger
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beenthere
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quick coupler? Meaning the I-Match or equivalent?
If so, they are great and about $200
If so, they are great and about $200
755inNY
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Post Hole Diggers (PHD) are great if you have holes to dig. Otherwise they are useless. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I suppose you could remove the gearbox and auger and use it as a boom pole but that would be expensive way to go.
On a more serious note. PHDs are pretty basic implements. A frame and boom to position the auger away from the tractor and a gear box to transfer power from the rear PTO to the auger. The augers come in different diameters to dig holes sized for what you need to put in them. The PHDs also range in weight/strength depending on whether you are doing a few hundred holes for yourself or thousands of holes commercially. Soil conditions make a huge difference on how well they dig. The PHD is one of the best implements I ever bought as I used it to put in about 2,000 linear feet of post and rail fence. They are also handy anytime you want a 6" to 12" hole such as planting small trees or shrubs.
If you do a search on TBN you will find several threads on operating PHDs and the different ones on the market. They aren't hard to use but there are some things you need to be aware of such as the angle of the auger to the ground changes as the auger goes down, large rocks may cause the auger to shift off location, no down pressure on the 3PH, shear pins, shear pins, shear pins (sometimes I broke 3 or 4 on a single hole but they can be replaced in less than 2 minutes), depending on soil conditions the auger can screw itself into the ground instead of breaking up the soil (no reverse on most PTO driven PHDs so a shovel and/or pipe wrench with long extension bar is only way out)
Jeff
On a more serious note. PHDs are pretty basic implements. A frame and boom to position the auger away from the tractor and a gear box to transfer power from the rear PTO to the auger. The augers come in different diameters to dig holes sized for what you need to put in them. The PHDs also range in weight/strength depending on whether you are doing a few hundred holes for yourself or thousands of holes commercially. Soil conditions make a huge difference on how well they dig. The PHD is one of the best implements I ever bought as I used it to put in about 2,000 linear feet of post and rail fence. They are also handy anytime you want a 6" to 12" hole such as planting small trees or shrubs.
If you do a search on TBN you will find several threads on operating PHDs and the different ones on the market. They aren't hard to use but there are some things you need to be aware of such as the angle of the auger to the ground changes as the auger goes down, large rocks may cause the auger to shift off location, no down pressure on the 3PH, shear pins, shear pins, shear pins (sometimes I broke 3 or 4 on a single hole but they can be replaced in less than 2 minutes), depending on soil conditions the auger can screw itself into the ground instead of breaking up the soil (no reverse on most PTO driven PHDs so a shovel and/or pipe wrench with long extension bar is only way out)
Jeff
Holes? What holes? I wanted one in order to scratch my dog's back. Seriously, I do appreciate the advice. I need to put down numerous 4x4's and 6x6's as well as plant some larger trees, and I'm getting too old to dig those holes. I wonder if I should spend big bucks on a JD digger or go w/a "generic" phd?
Thanks again for your advice. HB
Thanks again for your advice. HB
ronjhall
Super Star Member
2nu2no
Here is one of the better threads on Post Hole Digging.
Click Here
There is one were a TBN'er had all kinds of problems digging holes during the summer when the ground was dry. Maybe someone else knows where it is.
Here is one of the better threads on Post Hole Digging.
Click Here
There is one were a TBN'er had all kinds of problems digging holes during the summer when the ground was dry. Maybe someone else knows where it is.
Bob_Skurka
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I've got an el-cheapo PHD and it has put down a couple hundred holes without any problems. If I was a landscape contractor I might buy a good one, but for planting some trees, I dig 3 holes with a 12" auger bit in a triangle pattern and the scoop out the center of the triangle with a shovel. Works great and the soil that is left to scoop out is broken up and easy to lift.
Just a bit of a safety warning on PHD. They are very dangerous, but very useful. NOBODY, including your favorite obedient dog, should be within 20' of the rear of the tractor when you are digging a hole! And most implements need to be run at the 540 PTO speed, but NOT a post hole digger. You can run them at considerably slower speed. In fact, you SHOULD run them slower. PHDs are very very handy tools, but there is no way to put a guard around that big spinning auger and if you get caught up in it you are in deep doo doo. Best to stay in the seat and keep everyone away. If the bit itself gets stuck, TURN THE TRACTOR OFF. Then go get the bit unstuck.
As for the quick hitch. Best money I ever spent! But, you cannot use a quick hitch with a Post Hole Digger unless you get the Pat's Easy Change system, to my knowledge, it is the only brand that will work with a PHD. The downside is that you have to connect the top link, but the top link is the easy one, so it was a no-brainer for me to choose the Pat's system. By the way, it is for sale on this website and helps support the site, and it is at a very competitive price too. If you will be using a PHD and other implements, then Pat's is the way to go.
Just a bit of a safety warning on PHD. They are very dangerous, but very useful. NOBODY, including your favorite obedient dog, should be within 20' of the rear of the tractor when you are digging a hole! And most implements need to be run at the 540 PTO speed, but NOT a post hole digger. You can run them at considerably slower speed. In fact, you SHOULD run them slower. PHDs are very very handy tools, but there is no way to put a guard around that big spinning auger and if you get caught up in it you are in deep doo doo. Best to stay in the seat and keep everyone away. If the bit itself gets stuck, TURN THE TRACTOR OFF. Then go get the bit unstuck.
As for the quick hitch. Best money I ever spent! But, you cannot use a quick hitch with a Post Hole Digger unless you get the Pat's Easy Change system, to my knowledge, it is the only brand that will work with a PHD. The downside is that you have to connect the top link, but the top link is the easy one, so it was a no-brainer for me to choose the Pat's system. By the way, it is for sale on this website and helps support the site, and it is at a very competitive price too. If you will be using a PHD and other implements, then Pat's is the way to go.
755inNY
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HB,
No need to buy a JD PHD. My generic brand from the local tractor supply store has worked fine for years.
For 4x4s, the 9" auger works well.
For 6x6s, the 12" auger works well.
There are single flute augers and double flute augers.
Good things to have at the ready when digging:
Shear bolts ( I bought a 100 or so Grade 2 bolts and nuts at a bulk hardware store and kept them in a container on the tractor. They lasted me several years).
Hand tools for removing and replacing the shear bolt.
Hammer and punch to drive out the broken shear bolt.
Pipe wrench and extension bar to "unwind" the auger when it screws itself into the ground. (certain soil types, such as clay, are more prone to this. Sandy type soils likely will never be a problem)
Long bar with chisel or pointed end to pry out rocks.
It is much easier to back fill the hole if the grass around the hole has been mowed short. I always mowed the fence line before starting to dig holes.
I mounted a couple of those stick-on levels used for camping trailers to 2 sides of the gear box mounting plate. Lower the auger to the ground and use a 2 foot level vertically across the flutes. Once you confirm the auger is perpendicular to the ground, attach the stick-on levels, with the bubble centered, onto the side of the unit. They make a good reference point especially if you are digging holes on slopes.
Digging goes fastest when you have a helper on the ground.
The auger hangs like a pendulum. Lower the auger near the spot for the hole until it is above the ground by an inch or less. The helper can move the auger bit to be right over the spot while the auger is lower to the ground. Then position the auger perpendicular to the ground by moving the tractor forward or back as required. Make sure everyone is clear from the auger before engaging the PTO. I like to engage at a low RPM and then bring the speed up. As the auger is lowered the angle changes and you will need to move the tractor forward to keep it perpendicular (usually just once during the digging stroke). It may be helpful in some soils to clear the hole at half depth by raising the auger but do not raise it completely out of the hole. When raising the auger out of the hole after reaching the desired depth, I keep the auger turning to clear the flutes of dirt.
Depending on where you are, the digging may be easy or difficult. On my own small 5 acres, hole digging ranged from a super easy in and out to the auger just sitting there spinning, unable to break through the surface. I found that for hard surface conditions, digging 2 or 3 inches with a shovel was usually enough to get the auger through to softer ground. I had one hole that was "smoking" as I dug. When I pulled the auger out, the inside surface of the hole was smooth as a concrete floor.
Jeff
No need to buy a JD PHD. My generic brand from the local tractor supply store has worked fine for years.
For 4x4s, the 9" auger works well.
For 6x6s, the 12" auger works well.
There are single flute augers and double flute augers.
Good things to have at the ready when digging:
Shear bolts ( I bought a 100 or so Grade 2 bolts and nuts at a bulk hardware store and kept them in a container on the tractor. They lasted me several years).
Hand tools for removing and replacing the shear bolt.
Hammer and punch to drive out the broken shear bolt.
Pipe wrench and extension bar to "unwind" the auger when it screws itself into the ground. (certain soil types, such as clay, are more prone to this. Sandy type soils likely will never be a problem)
Long bar with chisel or pointed end to pry out rocks.
It is much easier to back fill the hole if the grass around the hole has been mowed short. I always mowed the fence line before starting to dig holes.
I mounted a couple of those stick-on levels used for camping trailers to 2 sides of the gear box mounting plate. Lower the auger to the ground and use a 2 foot level vertically across the flutes. Once you confirm the auger is perpendicular to the ground, attach the stick-on levels, with the bubble centered, onto the side of the unit. They make a good reference point especially if you are digging holes on slopes.
Digging goes fastest when you have a helper on the ground.
The auger hangs like a pendulum. Lower the auger near the spot for the hole until it is above the ground by an inch or less. The helper can move the auger bit to be right over the spot while the auger is lower to the ground. Then position the auger perpendicular to the ground by moving the tractor forward or back as required. Make sure everyone is clear from the auger before engaging the PTO. I like to engage at a low RPM and then bring the speed up. As the auger is lowered the angle changes and you will need to move the tractor forward to keep it perpendicular (usually just once during the digging stroke). It may be helpful in some soils to clear the hole at half depth by raising the auger but do not raise it completely out of the hole. When raising the auger out of the hole after reaching the desired depth, I keep the auger turning to clear the flutes of dirt.
Depending on where you are, the digging may be easy or difficult. On my own small 5 acres, hole digging ranged from a super easy in and out to the auger just sitting there spinning, unable to break through the surface. I found that for hard surface conditions, digging 2 or 3 inches with a shovel was usually enough to get the auger through to softer ground. I had one hole that was "smoking" as I dug. When I pulled the auger out, the inside surface of the hole was smooth as a concrete floor.
Jeff
Bob_Skurka
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