Pouring Concrete Around a Well Casing???

[Indygunworks]

I will wait to order the pump until after the well is dug just to be sure, but all the well logs for my area have a static water level of around 11-15 feet. This means I can use a shallow water pitcher pump as an electricity free backup, for clean drinking water. I really want the old style look, not the open spout 16 inch tall pumps that seem to dominate the market today. I have found two (probably the same one). One is on ebay and offers a decent picture, and one is from agrisupply. Here are the links

Rand Large Shallow Well Pump Hand Operated Garden Fountain Farm Pitcher Water | eBay

and agrisupply

Heavy Duty Tall Cast Iron Pitcher Pump

The base on the ebay one looks wider and is pre drilled for mounting holes.

My thoughts to make this as solid as possible is to dig about a 3 foot square area about 20 inch's down around the well casing. I will put some conduit in to make room for the electric wiring that powers the well pump. I would then put up some forms and pour a square concrete "pillar" around the well casing either flush with the top (would have to figure out a way of securing the well cap) or just below the top far about an inch below the well cap. That would allow me to use threaded concrete anchors that I would install after the concrete has cured. I could then mount the lower base to the concrete "pier" and that would allow me to assemble everything and make for a very solid arrangement that looks like its supposed to be there and not something I just threw together. I have never had a well so I don't know whats involved with servicing it, but it appears from the research I have done that this concrete would not interfere with anything a company might have to do.

Is this a practical idea, or fools gold?

 

[Rustyiron]

A couple of thoughts, I'm not sure that there's enough room in a normal well casing for both pipes & the electrical service to go down to water level. The modern well cap is a tightly sealed "O ring" type that keeps the bugs out. For your concrete block, I would be concerned if the concrete was flush with the top of the casing, allowing the possibility of rain water washing the birdchit in there (the well) that you will have from the birds that will be perching on your hand pump.
I like your idea but it might be better to just spend your pump money on a generator that will pull your pump and your fridge & freezer. My:2cents:

 

[oosik]

That is a great looking hand pump. Some thoughts - - I'm fairly sure you have freezing weather in the winter, make sure this hand pump is designed for winter use. When you pour the concrete - trowel it so the top slopes, slightly away from the pump in all directions - this will keep any contamination from draining into the well. You might want to install the threaded anchor bolts into the wet cement. Just set the base of the pump into the wet cement to get an exact outline for the anchor bolt placement. Otherwise, it sounds like it will be a fine looking & functional addition to the yard.

 

[Indygunworks]

I just bought a generator... but that's a short term. this would give me some longer term options, as well as making the well casing sticking up look like its a part of the homestead.

I will still have the well pipe sealed one way or another, even if its a rubber compression cap to make the seal. I could slope the concrete away letting water run off.

I have 2 3/4 inch's of clearance between the pitless adapter and the other side of the casing. the drop pipe is only 1 1/4 inch's and wont have anything on the bottom. It will be PEX so it will be flexible enough to follow the path of least resistance.

 

[Indygunworks]

That is a great looking hand pump. Some thoughts - - I'm fairly sure you have freezing weather in the winter, make sure this hand pump is designed for winter use. When you pour the concrete - trowel it so the top slopes, slightly away from the pump in all directions - this will keep any contamination from draining into the well. You might want to install the threaded anchor bolts into the wet cement. Just set the base of the pump into the wet cement to get an exact outline for the anchor bolt placement. Otherwise, it sounds like it will be a fine looking & functional addition to the yard.

My understanding after lots of reading is that these type of pumps are incredibly inefficient at keeping a prime. so as long as I leave the handle UP after I use it when its below freezing all the water will drain back down to below frost line before it has a chance to freeze. If I do get some freezing I can just use hot water for starting the prime which will thaw everything out. the water coming up will be 55 degrees so it should keep things thawed and allow for drainage before it refreezes. Ill also keep a few sets of spare leathers around in case I need them.

 

[Cord]

They make adapters to bolt the pump right to the casing. You'll want the casing to have a little height to make sure it doesn't get contaminated. You'll also want a pump with some modern improvements to make sure it doesn't contaminate the well water. Basically, the area around the rod is open to any bird perched on the rod. There are covers available to cover the rod and make the installation more sanitary. Don't forget, the pump is only the part above ground. There is a pipe and cylinder assembly that is in the casing. I'd highly recommend looking at the Lehman's website for your hand pump needs. They are great people there.

 

[Rustyiron]

Indy, I'd check with your well/pump guy. In the well's that I've had there are 3 loosely taped or twisted wires that provide elec. for the pump, the well pipe that has the spacers every 15' or so attached to the well pipe that keep it centered in the "hole" and prevent chaffing of your well pipe over the years, and there is also a 1/4" or so pull rope attached to the pump. That big casing get's pretty cluttered.
Keep us filled in on your project and here in Maine, there are a lot of folks that have Bison Hand Water Pumps

 

[Indygunworks]

They make adapters to bolt the pump right to the casing. You'll want the casing to have a little height to make sure it doesn't get contaminated. You'll also want a pump with some modern improvements to make sure it doesn't contaminate the well water. Basically, the area around the rod is open to any bird perched on the rod. There are covers available to cover the rod and make the installation more sanitary. Don't forget, the pump is only the part above ground. There is a pipe and cylinder assembly that is in the casing. I'd highly recommend looking at the Lehman's website for your hand pump needs. They are great people there.

quite frankly the uplift pumps that have the pump below ground are just to expensive. I am looking at a minimum of 600 dollars before the drop pipe and the cylinder. that's why I am wanting a suction pump where all it has is a 1 1/4 inch pipe that goes down into the water column.

Do you have a link to the available covers? I think I could make one very easily out of some waterproofed duck cloth. Although I would like to leave the pump open for the cosmetic value.

 

[Indygunworks]

Indy, I'd check with your well/pump guy. In the well's that I've had there are 3 loosely taped or twisted wires that provide elec. for the pump, the well pipe that has the spacers every 15' or so attached to the well pipe that keep it centered in the "hole" and prevent chaffing of your well pipe over the years, and there is also a 1/4" or so pull rope attached to the pump. That big casing get's pretty cluttered.
Keep us filled in on your project and here in Maine, there are a lot of folks that have Bison Hand Water Pumps

this is the first I have heard about the spacers inside of the well casing. the well will be dug sometime in feb or march, and I am hoping to have this stuff onsite so the well guy can see it and help with the installation accordingly. Maybe he could omit any of the spacers for the first 30 feet of the casing.

Again the drop pipe is just 1 1/4 inch pex so any wires or rope should just get pushed out of the way.

 

[Cat_Driver]

You can make it simple by getting a large sonotube ( Max diameter you want ) & Height then get a smaller tube 4"-12" or whatever you feel comfortable with SMALLER that the max large tube. Place smaller tume in the center of LARGE tube, Pour mixed concrete between the two.

Hand Water-Well Pumps. Motorized. Great with solar. The modern hand water pump.

size chart
Size Chart - Sonoco Construction Products

Here are some caps Hand and Motorized Water Pumps by Simple Pump. Well Cap options.

One note don't go FLAT withe the well as sometimes water with some minor flooding will enter the well, this happened to me and it filled up my well with sand.

 

[Indygunworks]

I could still do a square, and just use the smaller sonotube for the inside to keep it open... BUT, I don't see the point. I am considering now making a paper template of the bottom that once the concrete sets up just a bit I can insert stainless threaded rod into the pattern. that would allow the concrete to be 3 -6 inch's below the top of the well casing leaving room for the cap. I could put some nuts and washers on the threaded rod and put the pump base over that. It would elevate the pitcher pump but still allow normal use. If there are ever any issues and the bolts are in the way I could double nut them and back them out w/ a wrench.

The well cap options you list would work well for an uplift pump, but that's out of the budget. I plan on an installation similar to this, except with the well casing being slightly above the concrete not below.

Lee Valley Tools - Installing and Using the Pitcher Pump

 

[FredH]

How Deep is the well ? You stated your water table level but not at what depth your head will be at .

Pumps in the well are called submersible's . Above ground come in a couple of ways . Pure suction , which appears to be what you are refering to , are shallow well , single pipe , as you stated . Then there are " Jet " type , which actually have 2 pipes going into well with a jet venturi at the bottom . Pump actually uses water to pump water . My Dad has that type . He uses a 110 / 120 volt dual stage pump . Water table is about 15' , while jet is around 28' . Pumps 7 to 8 gallons per minute and maintains 50 psi , running 2 large rainbirds . No idea what his well produces , water table never changes .

My wells are submersible . One is 180'+ , the other is a touch over 200' . Single pipe with guides and wire down the hole .

As far as cement around casing , I would just follow what others have stated . Flush or not to top of casing , but still slope away all directions . Also consider sloping ground around entire area Away from casing . No Standing water around casing or cement you pour . With water table that shallow , Contamination can filter down pretty quickly .

Fred H.

 

[Indygunworks]

Most wells in the area are around 100 feet deep. the two that are within 100 yards of where my well will be both produce over 100 gallons per minute. One has a static water depth of 11 and the other 13.

So the concrete will not interfere with any future maintenance of the well?

 

[SPIKER]

Most wells in the area are around 100 feet deep. the two that are within 100 yards of where my well will be both produce over 100 gallons per minute. One has a static water depth of 11 and the other 13.

So the concrete will not interfere with any future maintenance of the well?

Sounds real good for flow and static water level for the suction pump, less than say 20 feet is needed. Once lifting they can suck to about 25 or so feet (at sea level pressures.)

The only issue will be if your line leaks at the pitless adapter on the (outside of the casing) connection. (That is where the line leaves the well and into the house.)

I would suggest that if/when you do pour concrete around the well casing (note you need clearance so at some point it can be pulled up of the top of the casing via tractor.) Leave a gap around the casing enough that the concrete slides off the top of the casing. I would wrap some heavy foam 1/4" or card board tight against the casing that should be good. I would also make up the bolts so they are cast into the concrete build a ring of rebar and weld the bolts in to that along with a rebar square pattern for support. lay it into the form and as other said give it a good fall away from the casing leaving the casing exposed above the concrete & attach pump above it. Get the pump company and see if they have available commercially the cover for the pump to prevent contamination.

Mark

 

[Indygunworks]

I like the idea of predoing the bolts to the rebar... I could get it spot on then. I could also use that as a lifting point if I have to move it again. Making it removable would eliminate any issues I may have w/ the concrete being in the way of servicing the well. I would want at least 1/4 inch of clearance for this method though to allow for some error when replacing the concrete to prevent damage to the casing. I could use the "internal" seal (pipe plug?) when resetting it to prevent any dirt or debris from falling into the well.

I also think I could fabricate something to cover the top of the pump to prevent anything from being able to enter the well. Some sort of play dough or something like that to make a seal

 

[Indygunworks]

Doesn't look near as cool but would all me to pressurize the pressure tank, and pump UP to fill larger items. Says its double acting. and it has a sealed top. Doesn't have the cosmetic value though which is really the idea here. I can have the casing sticking up out of the ground looking like it BELONGS, and not just a piece of PVC sticking up out of my yard.

Heller Aller PHB Brass Cylinder Pitcher Water Pump | Water Well Pumps

 

[wrooster]

this is the first I have heard about the spacers inside of the well casing. the well will be dug sometime in feb or march, and I am hoping to have this stuff onsite so the well guy can see it and help with the installation accordingly. Maybe he could omit any of the spacers for the first 30 feet of the casing.

In most submersible pump applications, split rubber "torque arrestors" are used on the water pipe to prevent the pipe string from twisting every time the pump starts. There is typically one arrestor located about 5 feet above the pump, another about 20 feet above that, and a third about 20 feet above that (the second and third arrestors help prevent "lashing" -- the pipe striking the side of the well bore casing when the pump starts).

wrooster

 

[wrooster]

that's why I am wanting a suction pump where all it has is a 1 1/4 inch pipe that goes down into the water column.

Just note, you can not "suck" (pull) water up from deeper than about 25-28 feet -- it's physics. In order to get water up from deeper than 25-28 feet, you need some sort of power at the bottom of the well to push the water upwards. That power can come from electricity (aka submersible pump) or from high pressure water (aka jet pump). The latter does require running two pipes down the well bore.

wrooster

 

[Fossil Farm]

Interesting photos. Thanks for sharing. Around here, the well casing has to be at least 1 foot above ground. Bentonite is used instead of a cement or concrete grout (for water wells) around the casing. Grout is used around gas and oil wells.

 

[bspeedy]

One thing to consider... You stated that you will have a pitless adapter. If your pump is to be pulled and replaced, the pitless adapter can stay in place. If the well must be cleaned out due to a cave-in or to be drilled deeper, the pitless will have to be dug up and removed while the work is done. A concrete slab will make removal of the pitless adapter difficult or impossible. Share your ideas with your drilling contractor and go with his recommendation. No sense in making things more expensive for yourself or more difficult for the contractor later. My dad - water well contractor for 40+ years - always laughed about people that tried to camouflage their well casing. We've seen shrubbery, fake wishing wells, fake rocks... Most of them were ruined or damaged when trying to service the well. We've also seen older wells that were drilled in the basement of a house. Great idea until it's time to work on it. One guy on the roof, one gun in the basement, one guy running the machinery and lots of shouting to keep everyone safe. All of that to keep the well out of the yard...