Power steering LInk

[DJP]

I cut grass with my tractor SATURDAY no problem, SUNDAY I got on the tractor and it starting hard to turn, later to find all my power steering fluid box was out. Ok I refilled the box with fluid, and all my steering was back. After cutting for about half an hour, my steering became hard again, and I checked my fluid steering box it was low again. Where or what can I look for to see what is making my power steering fluid box get low so fast. I have two lines going to both front wheels where the steering bar rods goes inside some type of housing between the two wheels, is that power steering fluid in those lines or is that Hidtroyit fluid???? . I have a John Deer 4500, 2004 Two wheel drive. With a Handy 600 bush hall, also front bucket.

 

[DJP]

Sorry For the Error, I mistakenly stated I had a John Deer. No It is a MAHINDRA 4500

 

[texasranger556]

Sorry For the Error, I mistakenly stated I had a John Deer. No It is a MAHINDRA 4500

I was going to comment yesterday but couldn't picture what you were talking about. With the 42/43/4400 Deere tractors the power steering draws from the 7 gallon main reservoir...I'd assume a 4500 is similar but with more capacity but your post had me second guessing.

No idea on a Mahindra. Are you saying you have no visible leak? Is the power steering pump belt drive or gear drive?

 

[DJP]

As I stated I made a mistake and stated I have a John Deer. But it is a MAHINDRA 4500 2 wheel drive.. And I have been put under the John Deer forum. But after reviewing my leak. I have found the leak to be at the back/bottom of my powering steering box(fluid reservoir). It was not leaking while the tractor is sitting still. But as I refilled the fluid box again, and I turned the steering wheel back and forward, than that when I began to see the fluid leaking from the bottom/back of the fluid box. Also I walked back the trail where I was driving the tractor, and I saw a trail of leaks from the tractor as I was driving it to my park site. Question now is what under the fluid box that is causing the leak. This box has two fluid lined the connect to the on the left top side and the front top side. This box appear to be bolted to the side of the tractor motor. DO I need to remove the whole fluid box to get behind/under it to see what is causing the leak. Where are the bolts that removes the entire box? Is there another fluid line, under the box , that I am not seeing.

 

[texasranger556]

Maybe some pictures will get you some more help. It has been years since I've worked on a Mahindra so hard to say how your pump/reservoir assembly is put together.

 

[DJP]

[Thanks for the reply, But now I have located the problem, and it is leaking at the power steering cylinder, driver side, where the where the power steering cylinder iron rod(piston) comes out of the cylinder. bad power steering seals. I have gotten the power steering cylinder loose from the tractor front axle, the four bolts that whole it to the axle. The problem I am having is how to disconnect the power steering cylinder from the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end. I am trying not to take off or knock loose the castle nut and ball joint, this appear to be hard to put back on, without a press device. From what I can see you should be able to disconnect the ball joint assembly cylinder end(the middle piece after the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end ) from the iron rod(piston) coming out of the power steering cylinder. The ball joint assembly cylinder end has a large bolt on one end with threads, it appear to be threaded into the power steering cylinder piston on each side. The piston has a cut for a thin wench on the end of the piston up close to the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. I am using the thin wrench and another wrench on the large bolt, turning one and holing the other, but no give so far. This piece has to come loose for me or any shop to be able to replace the seals in the cylinder.AM I going by this wrong, if so what is the way to disconnect my power steering cylinder from the whole ball joint assembly arm....>>>>>

 

[DJP]

Please look at NAVASOT (06-08-2016)03:57 pm picture, it is the one I have. You can see the large nut after the rubber boot, on the other side of the nut is the piston, directly behind the nut is a cut on the piston that appear to let you use a flat wrench and a large wrench for the large nut to make the disconnection there. AS of now when you turn the large nut the piston and the ball joint assembly cylinder end(the middle piece with the rubber cover)turn at the same time. They must come loose. Is ths piece threaded into the piston or outside the piston?????

 

[texasranger556]

I finally found your other thread and the picture you were talking about
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra-owning-operating/358784-i-have-mahindra-4500-a-2.html

Yes, you would have to keep the cylinder rod from turning relative to the joint (the part with the rubber). As stated in your other thread, this is typically done with an open ended wrench that has been ground down thin enough to fit in the flats. That also makes the wrench more likely to spread apart when you starting adding force, so you might end up resorting to a pipe wrench or something else as long as that part of the cylinder doesn't ever contact the seal (a pipe wrench will mar the finish). There are the other standard methods to try such as soaking with PB Blaster, heating with a torch, finding a way to use an impact gun on either the ball joint or from the other end of the cylinder since it appears to be dual ended. You will probably have to get creative.

Personally, I'd back the castle nut off the tie rod a little bit and work on getting it out of the steering knuckle. That will be a taper fit so you just have to get it to break loose then it will fall apart. Then you can take the cylinder to a work bench or bite the bullet and have a shop do the work. Depending which end of the cylinder is leaking, you might get away with only pulling one end off and leave the tie rod attached if it's froze on really bad.

 

[DJP]

www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra-owning-operating/358784-i-have-mahindra-4500-a-2.html[/url]

Yes, you would have to keep the cylinder rod from turning relative to the joint (the part with the rubber). As stated in your other thread, this is typically done with an open ended wrench that has been ground down thin enough to fit in the flats. That also makes the wrench more likely to spread apart when you starting adding force, so you might end up resorting to a pipe wrench or something else as long as that part of the cylinder doesn't ever contact the seal (a pipe wrench will mar the finish). There are the other standard methods to try such as soaking with PB Blaster, heating with a torch, finding a way to use an impact gun on either the ball joint or from the other end of the cylinder since it appears to be dual ended. You will probably have to get creative.

Personally, I'd back the castle nut off the tie rod a little bit and work on getting it out of the steering knuckle. That will be a taper fit so you just have to get it to break loose then it will fall apart. Then you can take the cylinder to a work bench or bite the bullet and have a shop do the work. Depending which end of the cylinder is leaking, you might get away with only pulling one end off and leave the tie rod attached if it's froze on really bad.[/QUOTE]

 

[DJP]

Are you saying unscrew the castle nut and knock loose the castle nut ball joint away from the tie rod arm. Will the tie rod end be hard to put back in, or can you knock back in and use the castle nut to tighten back in place???????

 

[DJP]

TIE rod ball joint assembly sleeve

IF you look at the picture again there is a three bolted sleeve on the tie rod arm, the last bolt on the end of the sleeve that has two large bolts on both ends, this holds the sleeve on to the ball joint assembly knuckle arm. How do this last bolt come off, it has two large bolts heads on each side. I got the two smaller bolts off, but the large bolt seen hard to crack. Again I am trying not to undo the castle nut/tie rod end, not pop it loose from it wheel arm. Will taking loose these two large bolts free the power steering cylinder/ball joint cylinder end(part with rubber boot) away from the castle nut/tie rod end(tie rod that has the three holes and three bolts.

 

[Kubota 2350]

I would think it'd be easier to remove the castle nut to get the thing off the tractor, loosen the nut flush with the shaft and give a whack with a hammer, it will pop right out.

 

[texasranger556]

Are you saying unscrew the castle nut and knock loose the castle nut ball joint away from the tie rod arm. Will the tie rod end be hard to put back in, or can you knock back in and use the castle nut to tighten back in place???????

It's a taper fit. There are no special tools to install it, you just tighten the nut.

 

[DJP]

Re: I have the power steering cylinder off the tractor now.

Thanks to all, for all and any Info. You have given. I now know of a better way to take off the power steering cylinder. First jack up your tractor off the front two wheels, this way you will be able to move back and forward manually the front two wheels. Take another look at the picture of the whole tie rod assembly. I seen this earlier but was not sure to go forward with it. I was trying not to knock loose the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end that has the castle hut on top, I was afraid of how hard it will be to but that knuckle back in the wheel arm. The best way is the knuckle arm end as you see on the picture, has a medal sleeve over it, that has four bolts in it(one on the end, one in the middle, and two on each side on the other end). After removing those bolts, I was going to get my crowbar to knock the sleeve loose off the knuckle arm, but after taken out the four bolts and turning the wheel back, the sleeve cam out like BUTTER. Do this for both sides, and your power steering will be free from the ball joint assembly. Now my next project will be to attempt to replace the seals myself. Again as I stated before I or any shop it appear will still need to unscrew the ball joint assembly cylinder end(the ball joint with the rubber boot) away from the cylinder pistons. I have bought a set of the thin wrenches, that I hope will let me hole the cut end of the piston, while I attempt to turn the large bolt on the ball joint assembly end(rubber boot joint). Next removing the several allan bolts on the cylinder that hole the piston in the cylinder. I have the correct allen wrench, but only a small L shaped wrench, that is not giving me enough power to crack any of the allen bolts trying it by hand with only that L shaped allen wrench. I need to put something on that allen wrench to get more leverage. Can anyone advise me as how to put in the cylinder seals, is it a job you think I can tackle. I am a Jack Of all Trades, master of None. I have already remove the fuel tank off this tractor, and to do this I had to remove the steering wheel, tractor hood etc... Does this show I may can take on the job of replacing the seals. I bet the shop cost will be as much as buying a new cylinder...