Power steering LInk

[DJP]

TIE rod ball joint assembly sleeve

IF you look at the picture again there is a three bolted sleeve on the tie rod arm, the last bolt on the end of the sleeve that has two large bolts on both ends, this holds the sleeve on to the ball joint assembly knuckle arm. How do this last bolt come off, it has two large bolts heads on each side. I got the two smaller bolts off, but the large bolt seen hard to crack. Again I am trying not to undo the castle nut/tie rod end, not pop it loose from it wheel arm. Will taking loose these two large bolts free the power steering cylinder/ball joint cylinder end(part with rubber boot) away from the castle nut/tie rod end(tie rod that has the three holes and three bolts.

 

[Kubota 2350]

I would think it'd be easier to remove the castle nut to get the thing off the tractor, loosen the nut flush with the shaft and give a whack with a hammer, it will pop right out.

 

[texasranger556]

Are you saying unscrew the castle nut and knock loose the castle nut ball joint away from the tie rod arm. Will the tie rod end be hard to put back in, or can you knock back in and use the castle nut to tighten back in place???????

It's a taper fit. There are no special tools to install it, you just tighten the nut.

 

[DJP]

Re: I have the power steering cylinder off the tractor now.

Thanks to all, for all and any Info. You have given. I now know of a better way to take off the power steering cylinder. First jack up your tractor off the front two wheels, this way you will be able to move back and forward manually the front two wheels. Take another look at the picture of the whole tie rod assembly. I seen this earlier but was not sure to go forward with it. I was trying not to knock loose the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end that has the castle hut on top, I was afraid of how hard it will be to but that knuckle back in the wheel arm. The best way is the knuckle arm end as you see on the picture, has a medal sleeve over it, that has four bolts in it(one on the end, one in the middle, and two on each side on the other end). After removing those bolts, I was going to get my crowbar to knock the sleeve loose off the knuckle arm, but after taken out the four bolts and turning the wheel back, the sleeve cam out like BUTTER. Do this for both sides, and your power steering will be free from the ball joint assembly. Now my next project will be to attempt to replace the seals myself. Again as I stated before I or any shop it appear will still need to unscrew the ball joint assembly cylinder end(the ball joint with the rubber boot) away from the cylinder pistons. I have bought a set of the thin wrenches, that I hope will let me hole the cut end of the piston, while I attempt to turn the large bolt on the ball joint assembly end(rubber boot joint). Next removing the several allan bolts on the cylinder that hole the piston in the cylinder. I have the correct allen wrench, but only a small L shaped wrench, that is not giving me enough power to crack any of the allen bolts trying it by hand with only that L shaped allen wrench. I need to put something on that allen wrench to get more leverage. Can anyone advise me as how to put in the cylinder seals, is it a job you think I can tackle. I am a Jack Of all Trades, master of None. I have already remove the fuel tank off this tractor, and to do this I had to remove the steering wheel, tractor hood etc... Does this show I may can take on the job of replacing the seals. I bet the shop cost will be as much as buying a new cylinder...