Power Trac Draft Control

[duane]

Just curious to see how many of you guys that are operating the 1430 and bigger units, are using draft control. It seems like it would be a nice feature. It would seem especially useful when plowing etc in float when the tractor arms ride over the implement. How does Power Trac accomplish draft control. Do they use special valves, I’ve never seen a schematic or narrative on how draft control is hydraulically accomplished. Think it can be added to the 422 or 425 models.

Duane

 

[Bob999]

I find draft control essential. If I do not have it engaged and properly adjusted I do not have adequate traction on my steeper slopes (23-30 degrees).

On the 1845 the hydraulic take-off is from the variable displacement pump. The amount of pressure (lift) provided to the loader lift cylinders is controlled by an adjustable pressure valve.

 

[PowerTracManiac]

Trying to find more information on Draft control for my PT 1460. Have never used this feature. This snowstorm may be the first time I will need to use the PT to clear my driveway.
Can someone explain how the Draft control works on the PT1460 and would it be helpful for plowing snow with the loader bucket? I dont have a snowplow attachment. I was just going to cut a slit in a pipe and put it on the loader blade to keep the bucket from digging into my stone driveway.

 

[ponytug]

Think of draft control as a two way variable pressure control; if the pressure drops, a valve cracks to let more oil in, and if the pressure rises, it bleeds it off.

Or just think of it as off loading some, or most, of the load on the FEL to the tractor.

By having more weight on the tractor, traction improves, and by having less weight on the implement, it floats or rides over terrain changes more easily.

When you put a different implement on, the weight and center of mass is different and you will need to unlock the valve, adjust the weight offset, and then relock the valve lock nut. If kim trying for a really light setting I usually do it cold, and then need to redo it when the oil warms up and thins out. YMMV on that one.

@PowerTracManiac Does that help? (I have to say I am quite impressed at what you have done with your 1460!

Good luck in the storm and its aftermath.

All the best, Peter

 

[PowerTracManiac]

Appreciate the compliment! The PT1460 has been a great machine for me!
Sry, but I still dont get it. I dont have the manual but I attached a picture of my dash below.
I have never turned on the draft function switch?
Dash also says do not use the float when the draft on? It seems to have 2 separate capabilities? Draft with the on/off switch and float (Have no idea how to even enable the float function?)

Could you kindly explain these features (draft/float) in a way that describes how they would properly be used with the machine?

Do the other PT machines have this same dash layout/functionality?

 

[ponytug]

No worries!

To get to float, push the FEL hydraulic control lever all the way forward. It will click beyond the "lower bucket" position. (The nifty little function control label by your right knee indicates the float position as well.) Float connects the raise and lower portions of the lift cylinders together so oil can flow freely between them. This allows just the full weight of the implement to rest on the ground, and follow changes in terrain quickly.

The draft control switch turns on draft control. (Obvious, I know.) This will pressurize the lift cylinders by some (user adjustable) amount. If FEL is left in "Float", the two systems will be at cross purposes, with the draft control trying to pressurize the cylinders and float letting them bleed off.

There is an import second part to the draft control! (Somewhere under the hood I suspect, but your owner's manual probably does tell you where it is.) Here's mine, in the center, bolted onto the battery box;

The critical bit is the knob on the left towards the fuel tank. That's the knob that sets the lift pressure, and on the same stem is a lock ring.

So, after changing implements to one that you want to use draft on, like a snow blower or mower, move the tractor and implement to level ground, open the hood, then start the engine, setting the throttle a little above idle, leaving the parking brake on, turn the draft control, check to make sure the implement is NOT being lifted off the ground, and then get off, go reach in and undo the lock ring enough to allow the knob to turn freely, and then screw it in or out. At some point the implement will start to rise off the ground. That is a little above the maximum lift for that implement. Back off the knob a little, and tighten the lock ring. You may need to redo this when everything is warm. It will be weight implement specific.

I always mow brush in my uneven and steeply sloped pastures with draft control on. I have it set to put about 95% of the mower weight on the tractor, and that extra weight really helps control slipping, and uphill mowing, and also allows the mower to ride up and down on uneven ground more readily.

Clear as mud?

All the best, Peter

P.S. if you turn on draft control, and the implement starts rising, TURN OFF the draft control. You will need to adjust the draft control to a lower pressure before turning draft control on again. You do not want an implement unintentionally rising 8' into the air with no operator control.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Can someone explain how the Draft control works on the PT1460 and would it be helpful for plowing snow with the loader bucket?

me being a very simple minded person..... when moving snow the float function is a big plus (a must for many). Float the bucket (height) and use the bucket curl to determine how much of a cut (cutting edge pressure) you want to put on the ground. You can easily curl the bucket up enough so the edge wont touch your drive at all only the bottom lip of the bucket.

I wouldn't use draft control for snow plowing at all.

 

[PowerTracManiac]

Excellent! TU Ponytug

 

[ponytug]

You are very welcome!

Stay safe in the weather.

All the best, Peter

 

[MossRoad]

I don't think I'd have a need for draft control and snow plowing. I can see how it would help with traction on mowers and hills. But I generally leave my plow and bucket in float. I don't want them lifting on their own. The plow has its own wheels to roll on. I don't see how it would be useful on a blower, either.

But, I'm open to learning.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have a few chunks on my property where I am at about 40 degrees sideways. Tried mowing once with Draft off. Found myself at the bottom of the hill almost immediately after I hit the switch. Amazing what the weight of the mower does to help keep your feet on the ground.

 

[woodlandfarms]

No worries!

To get to float, push the FEL hydraulic control lever all the way forward. It will click beyond the "lower bucket" position. (The nifty little function control label by your right knee indicates the float position as well.) Float connects the raise and lower portions of the lift cylinders together so oil can flow freely between them. This allows just the full weight of the implement to rest on the ground, and follow changes in terrain quickly.

The draft control switch turns on draft control. (Obvious, I know.) This will pressurize the lift cylinders by some (user adjustable) amount. If FEL is left in "Float", the two systems will be at cross purposes, with the draft control trying to pressurize the cylinders and float letting them bleed off.

There is an import second part to the draft control! (Somewhere under the hood I suspect, but your owner's manual probably does tell you where it is.) Here's mine, in the center, bolted onto the battery box;

The critical bit is the knob on the left towards the fuel tank. That's the knob that sets the lift pressure, and on the same stem is a lock ring.

So, after changing implements to one that you want to use draft on, like a snow blower or mower, move the tractor and implement to level ground, open the hood, then start the engine, setting the throttle a little above idle, leaving the parking brake on, turn the draft control, check to make sure the implement is NOT being lifted off the ground, and then get off, go reach in and undo the lock ring enough to allow the knob to turn freely, and then screw it in or out. At some point the implement will start to rise off the ground. That is a little above the maximum lift for that implement. Back off the knob a little, and tighten the lock ring. You may need to redo this when everything is warm. It will be weight implement specific.

I always mow brush in my uneven and steeply sloped pastures with draft control on. I have it set to put about 95% of the mower weight on the tractor, and that extra weight really helps control slipping, and uphill mowing, and also allows the mower to ride up and down on uneven ground more readily.

Clear as mud?

All the best, Peter

P.S. if you turn on draft control, and the implement starts rising, TURN OFF the draft control. You will need to adjust the draft control to a lower pressure before turning draft control on again. You do not want an implement unintentionally rising 8' into the air with no operator control.

Why is your tub so clean? I have like 4" of oil and mud in there, and it looks like you could eat off of yours.

 

[MossRoad]

I have a few chunks on my property where I am at about 40 degrees sideways. Tried mowing once with Draft off. Found myself at the bottom of the hill almost immediately after I hit the switch. Amazing what the weight of the mower does to help keep your feet on the ground.

I always find it satisfying when brush cutting trails uphill on our property and the front wheels start to spin, pull the joystick out of float, lift the brush cutter off of it's wheels just a tad, and up the hill I go. The weight transfer to the front wheels is just enough. Poor man's draft control.

 

[ponytug]

Why is your tub so clean? I have like 4" of oil and mud in there, and it looks like you could eat off of yours.

I don't know about eating off of mine.

Well, funny you should ask.

I remain quite mindful of the tractors (e.g. @Sedgewood's) that have ignited, and here the fire risks beyond losing the tractor are substantial (wildfire). I have no wish to be remembered as "the guy", as some sort of modern Catherine O'Leary, rightly or wrongly blamed for some massive wildfire.

So, yes, I do remove debris when I am done mowing or chipping, and it does get blown out regularly with compressed air to keep the oil coolers clean. I also have the oil recycling line installed on the brake system (lessens the oil weep), and I wipe the bottom out to be able to find weeps or leaks sooner. The tractor rarely gets washed, given the high TDS water here.

I seem to remember that you keep your cars in pretty good nick. You'd probably roast me if you saw the unwashed / unwaxed state of my vehicles. High TDS water makes it a losing proposition, here at least.

At any rate, clean tub to find oil leaks quickly and to lower the fire risk. It is Groundhog Day so remember to invert and shake those extinguishers.

All the best, Peter

 

[MossRoad]

On thing I learned from tracking down an oil leak a few years ago is that I should have kept the tub cleaned out on a regular basis. YIKES! What a pain to pull all of that oil soaked debris out of there. It gets to a point that you can't. It was so bad, it was easier to remove the engine completely and put it on a stand to locate the leak. I won't let that happen again.

 

[ponytug]

On thing I learned from tracking down an oil leak a few years ago is that I should have kept the tub cleaned out on a regular basis. YIKES! What a pain to pull all of that oil soaked debris out of there. It gets to a point that you can't. It was so bad, it was easier to remove the engine completely and put it on a stand to locate the leak. I won't let that happen again.

Yes, there's something about oil saturated gunk that resists removal. I use soaking things in Dawn and a pressure washer to get any oil soaked crud off the floor. Usually after I do that, it gets pretty easy to follow the oil and find the offending item, at least so far.

All the best, Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Fall leaf mowing is the worst! Those little chips get everywhere. Toss in a few twigs that get lodged under some hydraulic hoses and they hold everything in place. If they are the slightest bit damp, it's a mess.