Powershift Squeal

[Chuckarn]

I just bought a YM2010D and the clutch just stopped working and there is a squeal when I push it in. Does it just need fluid or do I have bigger problems? I do not think it is just a stuck clutch because there is the squeal. Do I need to change the Hyd fluid and clean the screen? Do I screw in the dip stick to check the Hyd fluid level or just put it in and pull it out?

 

[winston1]

The clutch and powershift have two different cavitys. There is no fluid in the clutch housing. A squeal could be the throwout bearing. Assuming the squeal is coming from the clutch housing. Is the clutch pedal adjusted correctly with about 5/8" free play at the top?

Check the fluid with the dip stick sitting on top of the threads, not screwed in. No idea whether you need to change the fluid. Any history on when it was last changed and screen cleaned? Hydraulics working ok?

 

[careyo63]

There's a Service stop valve under your seat. Should be a big Flat Knob. Make sure it's open. When I first bought my 2000 and again preformed all the Maint. I found that my Hyd. Screen was _ up! So bad I had to replace it. So IMO. if the Stop Valve is open, full of fluid then plan on Servicing the Hyd. Sys. Just my:2cents:

 

[alorio1]

I think you will find the throw out bearing is very bad, pressing on the clutch petal could cause further damage on the clutch plate fingers or throw out bearing fork which holds the brg in place.....just my 02 cents on your issue.

 

[careyo63]

True and Winston mentioned Throw out Bearing. But with a PowerShift What do you "Not" have to do to shift it? Push in the Clutch. Once the range is Selected. Could be the Internal Hyd.Pump in the Trans is starving for Hyd. Fluid. And the Trans. Quit! Here's a good read on it
Yanmar's Powershift Transmission explanation.

 

[Chuckarn]

Thank You Winston1, I think you may be spot on. I did not want to over fill the system and I have never owned a real Tractor before but I do know sometimes overfilling is worse than not filling enough.The noise was coming from the front engine area it seemed like but I being new did not realize that maybe the bell housing was farther ahead than one would think. So yes being the motor is so short I think it was coming from the trans. I will check the fluid with the dip stick not screwed in and top it off, I did buy 5 gallons of fluid because I knew sooner or later I would need some and wanted the correct type. I will also check the free play. I did buy the service manual from Hoye. I will ask the guy I bought it from and see if he can tell me. He has the side panels and the drive shaft I believe and said he would look for them. I told him I would drive the 70 mile round trip to pick them up no problem but he has not told me he found them yet, I will call him again and maybe drive up there just to put a face to that request.
Thank You caryo63, I did nudge the valve closed one time and it did get my goat why my 3 pt would not come up but I had read about the valve before and remembered I needed to check it.
Thank You alorio1 I hope I did not burn up the throw out bearing, I think I am ok because it would only do it when I push the clutch in and I did not try to finish a job with it that way, I was actually waiting on my Hoye manual before I tried to fix or top off any fluids but the manual was so big I fell asleep reading it so I had my 89 YO Dad read it and guess what, he fell a sleep quicker than I did. :zzz:
I will top off the fluids in a few minute and check my other fluids as well. I am going to go mow a lawn that will almost pay for half of the tractor....
OK it is 45,000 sqft of field and 23,000 sqft of lawn around a house, oh did I mention it is 4 feet tall. I also have to mow the 23,000 sqft twice at least before it will look OK, there is also some other yard work needs doing that will take a while.
I can't wait to get more jobs like this so when my Wife finds out I bought a tractor she will let me stay here and use it instead of sending me up there to push clouds around.
She has been out of state taking care of her Dad since the end of Feb and won't be back for another 6 weeks if everything goes as planned, he will probably move up here with us so he can have better care.
He and my Dad get along fine even though my Dad is 89 and still operating great, he drives, splits wood and mainly he gets up and goes to something everyday. He just watches TV to help him go to sleep in the living room. :shhh:

 

[normde2001]

The throwout bearing is only in use when you push the clutch in. You are most likely going to have to split the tractor to replace. This is a common, but expensive malady on any stick-shift vehicle.
BTW, what does "clutch stopped working" mean? The clutch is working when the tractor is moving. When you push in the pedal, the clutch stops working, (disengages).

 

[Chuckarn]

You are absolutely correct the clutch is working it is engaging but I cannot disengage it. I checked the fluid level and it is a little over full so I will use a turkey baster to hopefully take some of the fluid out and try it again to see if it still squealing. I use the tractor for couple of hours today to mow down some brush but believe it or not I never pushed the clutch in.

 

[kenmac]

Sounds like it may be time to split it and see how the clutch/ throw out bearing look. The hyd fluid will have no effect on how the clutch works. If you can't disengage the clutch, something in the clutch assy isn't working correctly

 

[normde2001]

Yanmar Tractor Parts: CLUTCH

I'm guessing you may not be familiar with how a clutch works. Clutch pedal rotates shaft 18, causing fork17 to move TO bearing against forks of pressure plate causing it to relax pressure on the disc. A dry bearing will squeal. If bearing falls apart . . . . .