Preferred pipe sealer??

[TractorLegend]

Recently I installed a factory new single rear remote kit on my Kioti CK30HST (w/o benefit of instructions mind you). I used my career mechanic puzzle fitting skills and think I did pretty good considering.
The QD couplers thread onto some fittings attached to a bracket that secures to rear end area. I installed this kit at my rural recreation property where the tractor is- so my time with it is limited as well as not having every tool and piece of shop equipment i'd like.
I brought some pipe compound that appears non- hardening. (like teflon tape in a jar)
Also i brought blue Locktite.
The teflon compound leaked after a while. I removed fittings and clean off all the oil I could with paper towels and resealed using the blue Locktite and let it sit 45 min before use. Its way better, but after a period of use I can run my finger under the threads and still get a hint of wetness. Me and plumbing are not friends. What would be the sealer of choice of experienced folk?
I see the hose assemblies on the tilt cylinder are assembled with a hardening white stuff.

 

[jdbower]

Loctite makes a hydraulic version (545) which I've used. I don't have any longevity tests nor am I certain that it's a thread locker, it only says "thread sealant" on the label. It's still a bit scary applying a red compound from Loctite when I'm not sure what I'm doing, but so far it's worked well. Most of my connections didn't need it, hydraulic fittings seem to be designed to self-seal through deformation of the threads but you need to be careful to use just the right torque (too little and it leaks, too much and you damage the threads).

 

[3RRL]

I have used pipe sealer and Teflon tape. I prefer the Teflon tape myself. Many will discourage it's use because if not properly applied, loose or shredded ends can get into the hydraulic system. So you need to be aware of that drawback when using it.

I recently bought a roll that is much thicker mil thickness than the stuff I usually get. It can still be put on tightly enough so it squishes between the threads, but it is not flimsy nor does it have the ragged ends that can cause trouble.
That roll has worked great for me and the seals are perfect.
Now, If I can only figure out where I got it?

 

[RonMar]

Another drawback of teflon is that it is a lubricant and you can install fittings too tight. A male NPT fitting is tapered and basically a wedge. If screwed too tightly into a cast monoblock valve body, it can cause it to crack.

I discovered a paste type sealant called Blue Seal a few months ago while doing some propane work. It is made by whilliam H harvey co. and has NSF and UPC rateings and is suitable for just about any type fluid, gas and steam, except oxygen, keytones or acids/alkalis. It seems to seal pretty well with hydraulics, but I have only used it once for that. It is available at Do-it-best hardware stores or on their website.

http://doitbest.com/Pipe+joint+tape....+Harvey-model-025301-doitbest-sku-437138.dib

 

[SkunkWerX]

The standard blue loctite is a thread locker, but not necessarily a thread sealer.

There is an HVAC product called Leak-Lok, which is a thicker consistancy and is rated for oils and high and low temps.

I really like the stuff.

Leak Lock - Highside Chemical

 

[Farmerford]

Like Rob I use milspec Teflon tape that is a bit thicker than the usual tape. I have used LocTite 545 with good results when I had the patience to let it cure for several hours ( it can take up to 24hrs to fully cure). But I am usually in a hurry so the no-wait of Teflon tape outweighs the risk of contaminating the system with bits of tape. I am very careful with the tape and have not had problems after using it for many years. I think the biggest risk with Teflon tape comes when you disassemble a fitting and then reassemble it. You have to be careful to remove all the little bits of old tape from the fittings before putting them back together.

I try to avoid the overtightening problem Ron mentions by counting turns past hand tight according to the published standards. This has worked well so far and has allowed me to reuse the fittings most of the time because the threads were not permanently distorted.

 

[jdbower]

I've heard rumors that Lowes is selling thicker Teflon tape designed for propane fittings, you may be able to find some of the thicker, yellow stuff near the gas grill accessories.

 

[TractorLegend]

The Wurth brand blue locktite stuff i used said thread sealer as well...I may be tempted to use the locktite thread seal part number you stated and let it cure for more time.
I will recheck next trip to property and see if it healed itself or needs additional attention.

 

[3RRL]

I've heard rumors that Lowes is selling thicker Teflon tape designed for propane fittings, you may be able to find some of the thicker, yellow stuff near the gas grill accessories.

jd,
That may be where I got that roll. It is noticeably thicker and more yellow in appearance. It works really good. And like famerford says, you just have to be careful especially upon disassembly. But you should take care not get get any paste into the system either. If done properly, tape makes a great mess free seal. IF not, it could be trouble like anything else.

 

[3RRL]

I'll tell ya what works really good. It's those Seal Nuts you can get for NPT threads.



At least they work great for me, so I don't know what your individual experience is with them. I used them on my cylinder connections where I couldn't screw the NPT into the elbow too much, or the other end of the hard line would come out of the compression fitting. So I used Seal Nuts for the NPT there.



You can see it on the left of the elbow on the cylinder. I only had the NPT thread in the elbow hand tight and used the Seal Nut to seal it off. They are a bit pricey, but Zero leaks! They compress down over the threads to seal as you tighten them up.

I get mine at Discount Hydraulics here:

SEAL NUTS @ DISCOUNT HYDRAULICS