Problem shifting on new CK30 HST

[mries]

I've got a new CK30 HST with about 9 hours on it and the HST shifter is a problematic.

I find that 50% of the time I can't shift from low to medium (let alone high) -- basically the shifter doesn't always want to budge from the current gear to the next.

Most of the time, if I move the tractor forward a few feet, I can then get the tranny in the next gear (up or down). And yes, I am using the clutch

If I can live with it that long, I will definitely have the dealer look into it at the 50 hour service. Any other CK30 HST owners with fussy shifters?

Thanks.

 

[300wtby]

my ck25 is sometimes hard to change gears,ive found that all i have to do is rock my weight forward and back on the seat and it goes right in,ive tried oiling all the linkages,didnt seem to help much,but ive never had to move the tractor a couple of feet to get it in gear,just a little bit of movement and mine goes right in,and it does seem to be getting better the more hours i get on it....chris

 

[glmf]

I got this tip from a post in this forum some time ago. When you want to change ranges, before doing anything else step on the brake and keep it depressed. Then press the clutch down and shift the range selector. Let off the clutch then brake and off you go, becomes second nature after a few times. Keeping the tractor from moving during the shifting process seems to make it much easier. If that doesn't do it, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to have the dealer look at it, and I wouldn't wait til fifty hours. Good luck

 

[County Sawyer]

One thing to remember is that the 3 speed shifter is fully mechanical and if there is any load on it will be difficult to shift. The easiest way is to hold presure on the shifter and very lightly move the hydro-stat pedal forward and/or reverse until you feel it shift. Essentially what you have is a diesel engine connected to a hydrostatic engine via the clutch and then connected to a mechanical transmission. By moving the hydro you are able relieve the torque on the gears and letting them move more freely. This torque is more severe if you are on any kind of grade when trying to shift. Hope this explanation helps, Ron.

 

[RexB]

What County Sawyer said...and double-clutching usually lets it shift Ok. It's normal for a tractor mechanical shift to be a little balky, esp when new. But if it grinds, or refuses to go into gear when there is no load on it, then it's dealer-time.

(These aren't the close-ratio Hurst shifters we demand in our cars :~)

 

[TractorLegend]

Yes...I think you just have the rigs weight against the gears. I sometimes clutch and have to roll a bit one way or the other. Sometimes I rock the HST peddal back and forth and that helps. Its a phenomenon that really can't be engineered out in an unsychronized gearset I think. Old as vehicles themselves.

 

[mrutkaus]

I think it is a fairly normal problem.

It got a little better after changing the hydraulic oil to Shell Donat at 50 hr.

Believe it or not for me moving the FEL up and down a bit works almost every time!

Mike

 

[Highbeam]

After 560 hours I can tell you that it won't go away so you will want to try and figure out the trick/method/process that works best for you. I mostly leave it in the middle range unless I really need more power. If it was easier I might shift more often.

 

[Steve_Miller]

Pushing fairly hard on the brake pedal always works for me. I'm at 55 hrs.

Steve

 

[dfkrug]

After 560 hours I can tell you that it won't go away so you will want to try and figure out the trick/method/process that works best for you. I mostly leave it in the middle range unless I really need more power. If it was easier I might shift more often.

Highbeam, you prob have more seat time on a CK than any other TBNer.
I agree that I would change ranges a bit more often if it were easier. The
best way for me is still to lift the front tires a bit off the ground, taking
load off the gears. It seems to work when the MFWD is not engaged, too.
I wonder why....