Problem with 1995 Honda H55-18 garden tractor

   / Problem with 1995 Honda H55-18 garden tractor #1  

Andy--

New member
Joined
Feb 23, 2008
Messages
3
Tractor
1995 Honda H55-18
The last time I used it (I'm currently not using it until I fix this problem) I was barely able to get it started and initially it was running on only one cylinder, although after a little while it was alright and running as smoothly as ever on two cylinders. I found out later when the engine was cold that there was low to no compression in one cylinder, do you think this is a ring problem ?

Here's some other things I found out;

After the engine was warmed up it appeared to have all of it's power although I didn't test that.

Spark plugs were oily and had allot of carbon buildup.

Paper air filter had engine oil in it.


Some other information;

Normally I use this tractor only with the front bucket and rear box scraper and the engine usually isn't worked very hard and idles allot.

Low engine hours.

Doesn't burn oil and has clean exhaust after starting.

Engine runs quiet indicating no engine problems.

Well maintained, kept in garage, all fluids and filters changed regularly, oil levels checked ect.

Engine oil use 10-30 Castrol.



Articulated 4WD gasoline powered 18HP two cylinder liquid cooled, front and rear PTO, category "O" hitch, No longer manufactured
 
   / Problem with 1995 Honda H55-18 garden tractor #2  
Could be rings, but could also be a valve that's not closing. Your description of your spark plugs sounded like they were pretty well crudded up? Might be some additional crud keeping a valve from seating, but once hot the crud softened to allow better seating. Even though it's a liquid cooled engine, I don't think long periods of letting it idle is doing you any good. When was the last time you had it tunded up, oil changed, filters changed, etc?
 
   / Problem with 1995 Honda H55-18 garden tractor
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks bontai_joe I think your right about "valve that's not closing" but if there is a chance there's cylinder wall glazing shouldn't I check that considering the rarity of engines and engine parts for this tractor ?

Bear with me it's been awhile since I took a class in automotive repair. My thinking is the rings are made of tempered steel, when they loose there contact with the cylinder wall because it's glazed they loose the ability to transfer heat to the cylinder wall thus loose there temper when they over heat thus requiring a huge overhaul.

So I think the question is should I take off the head and check for glazing or take a chance change the air cleaner, add some Techroline additive into the gas, take off the box scraper and put on a PTO driven rototiller I have and then do some heavy rototilling for a couple of days to get out the sludge in the combustion chamber.

As far as the last tune up as I said I do change all fluids and filters regularly, oil levels checked ect, but I did miss the spark plugs. I do check the air filter regularly but not for oil in it and I guess someone put to much oil in the foam pre-filter that spread into the paper filter. That in turn created a more than normal vacuum that sucked oil past the intake valve guide.

After this I think I'll put on a large belt driven alternator that I can switch on a large electrical load to that I'll do when the engine idles.
 
   / Problem with 1995 Honda H55-18 garden tractor #4  
I'm not super familiar with the liquid cooled Hondas, but I do beleive like the air cooled engines they have a compression release. This holds the exhaust valve on one of the cylinders open a bit during cranking to ease the strain on the starter. I think the idling is causing a lot of oil contamination, which may be causing the compression release to stick open causing low compression on the one cylinder. The oil on the air filter can be from excessive discharge from the crankcase ventilation system that feeds up through the air intake, also caused from oil sludge because the idling is keeping the engine from staying at operating temperature, which holds especially true on a liquid cooled engine.

I would change the oil and filter, make sure the thermostat is operating correctly, and add a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the new oil- this will free up anything that might be sticking. Rather than idle excessively, better to just shut it down and start it back up.

-Fordlords-
 

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