Problem with suction port on hydro tank...

[/pine]

I'm working on a hydraulic power unit and the reservoir I bought (10 Gal.) has a 2-1/4" suction port...the strainer I have has 2-1/4" that fit the port but....

...At the bottom of the welded on port (about 2" to 2.5" down in the tank) there is a rim that holds a single flat, round screen (barely a couple of square inches of screen) held in place with a C-clip...

,,,The rim that the small round screen lays against closes the opening enough to prevent the end of the strainer (10" x 2") down into the tank....

...As much as I hate to have to clean metal shavings and grindings etc. out of a new tank...the easiest solution is to remove "the rim"...the rim extends into the opening about 3/16" all the way around and is about 1/8" thick...I can't tell if it is part of the cast or attached after the fact...

I'm seeking suggestions on ways to cut the rim out of the way...whatever can be done the threads inside of the port have to be protected...

 

[/pine]

The screen comes out with the c-clip removed...it is just the flange (that holds the screen) that is in the way...

...I thought at first that the rim might be just a flat donut welded on the bottom of the port fitting and I might be able to break it off with a chisel but no dice...

I'll try and take some pics...

 

[/pine]

here is a pic:

 

[dstig1]

Can you reach down in there with a dremel and cutoff wheels? It would take a number of wheels, if it even fits, but that is the biggest problem - finding something that will fit and reach. You could cut it off a bit higher up perhaps, as long as you maintain the threads needed. That may make it easier to reach. Would a plasma torch fit in there?

If you can't find something that fits and reaches, then I'd think your only alternative is to cut a hole for access and use something like this to plug it:

6" Hydraulic Tank Cleanout Access Cover Fleenor FCC-06-YZ-BN | Reservoir Accessories | Hydraulic Reservoirs & Oil Coolers | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

6 Hydraulic Tank Cleanout Access Cover Fleenor FCC-06-YZ-BN, Reservoir Accessories, TANK CLEAN-OUT COVER Brand new, FLEENOR model FCC-06-YZ-BNFleenor,FCC-06-YZ-BN ,

www.surpluscenter.com

 

[/pine]

The Dremel tool/ cut off wheels is still on the table...also considering a hole saw...

I have also thought of making several cuts and breaking off tabs as too suggested....

My original plan was to revers the hose on my shopvac and instead of sucking the particles through the tank I was going to try and keep a positive pressure in the tank so at least some of the particles would be expelled with the air...?

I have even considered mangling the end of the strainer so it would fit through but the way it is constructed it looks like it might not allow it....still have a few days to decide which way to go...have to see if I have a 2-3/16" hole saw and see what it looks like...

I can't tell if the rim is part of the casting or not...if it is the "tabs" will break rather than bend down out of the way...??

 

[/pine]

Plan c:2.314
You got a pipe fitter's reamer dat will go in der?
Bounce chips to corner when you done cutting and use magnet on stick to get ships out. [/b]

Stick punch in and see, I got genuine government Quarter says painted flange part of tank. Some engineer in production undercut de hole to save 1 cent per unit and use fer inner flange to hold screen.

I originally was hoping the same thing and I could knock it off...you can see in the pic the marks my chisel left when I was pounding on it ...looking close with some readers there does not look to be a seam where the flange would be welded etc...

BTW...the button visible down in the tank is the magnet that fell out of the cup on the end of my "magnet on a stick"...!

 

[/pine]

Plan c:2.314 - revision 7

Wad of Bubble yum fresh chewed preferably by hyperactive kid on stick should reclaim magnet.

Can you reach finger in an see how thick flange is? If not coathanger wire time. Bend L, hook on bottom of lip, straightedge across mouth & marl. Lift hook, set L on top flange and determine thickness.

Judging by feel it seems to be about 1/8" thick or so...

Not real concerned about leaving the magnet....

 

[/pine]

There is a fixed screen that is part of the fill port...it can't be removed without having to reseal the gaskets etc...

I think I am going to try the hole saw...I have a 2-3/16" bimetal bit...no center pilot bit is needed that saw can't move laterally more than 1/32" or less...it is going to be close...the outset teeth are just a ch bigger than the end cap on the strainer...

...One thing I'm concerned about is it is not going to be cutting much of a ring if any...it amounts to just about the width of the kerf so if one side cuts through before the other it could leave me a jagged partial rim with a lot more work to do...let alone cleaning out the tank after the fact...