Mowing Problems mowing with fixed height Slasher/Brush Hog

[Grubs]

I have an old 4' slasher / Brush Hog / Rotary cutter that has fixed height full length skids along the sides and no wheels.

I gather rotary cutters on skids without wheels (slashers in AU) are more common in AU than elsewhere.

If I slash the grass with the 3PH lowered fully (dragging on the skids) then the grass is cut way too short (1") with a good dose of scalping of high points.

My apparent options to raise the cutting height are:

1. Raise the 3PH and hold the slasher off the ground while cutting.
   I could set the height on my driveway and on my B1750 there is a little sliding lock that I can set to prevent the 3PH lever being accidently knocked to a lower position. There will be some rockin' and rollin' on undulating ground.
   
   
2. Get extensions welded onto the skids.
   I'd have to pay for materials and for this to be done and would still have a fixed height solution.
   
   
3. Shorten the top link to lift the rear of the slasher and drive quickly!

Do I need to shell out the money to get extensions welded onto the skids or is raising the 3PH and letting the tractor hold the slasher above the ground an OK solution?


I use the MMM for grass that has been cut a few times but I have some long/rough grass and blackberries to sort out and was hoping I could use this slasher (that came with the house) after I ballance the blades

 

[intel]

use the 3 point arms with the adjustable stop. If you did any welding an adjustable tail wheel might work better then adding skids.

 

[jsborn]

Bush Hogs are really not made to cut the yard grass close. They are made to cut the brush and and bushes hence the name. I would cut the heavy stuff a little higher not dragging the skids and then smooth it up with the MMM finish mower.
Good luck

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

Morning Grubs,

I've got a JD503 bush hog mower, I took a set of woods wheels that they use on their mowers and mounted them on the front of the mower off to the side. I gave the bush hog blades a extra hit with the grinder and it did a great job on the yard. I used this with my 9N tractor for many years. I later found a finish mower and of course it did a better job but the bush hog fixed this way worked perfect. I also left off the top link this way the mower floated on the three wheels. Hope this helps.

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

If your unit has no wheels add a rear one also, don't know if this helps but I hope it does. Have a good one.

 

[JoeL4330]

my recollection is that rotary mower instruction manuals suggest keeping the rear slightly higher to avoid clumping ...so, shortening the tail link is a good plan ...if you add a tail wheel, then the top link should have a swinging link, chain, or only be used for transport

 

[Lunk]

I have an old 4' slasher / Brush Hog / Rotary cutter that has fixed height full length skids along the sides and no wheels.

I gather rotary cutters on skids without wheels (slashers in AU) are more common in AU than elsewhere.

If I slash the grass with the 3PH lowered fully (dragging on the skids) then the grass is cut way too short (1") with a good dose of scalping of high points.

My apparent options to raise the cutting height are:

1. Raise the 3PH and hold the slasher off the ground while cutting.
   I could set the height on my driveway and on my B1750 there is a little sliding lock that I can set to prevent the 3PH lever being accidently knocked to a lower position. There will be some rockin' and rollin' on undulating ground.
   
   
2. Get extensions welded onto the skids.
   I'd have to pay for materials and for this to be done and would still have a fixed height solution.
   
   
3. Shorten the top link to lift the rear of the slasher and drive quickly!

Do I need to shell out the money to get extensions welded onto the skids or is raising the 3PH and letting the tractor hold the slasher above the ground an OK solution?


I use the MMM for grass that has been cut a few times but I have some long/rough grass and blackberries to sort out and was hoping I could use this slasher (that came with the house) after I ballance the blades

Adjust the top-link so it's a bit tail-high, set the 3ph to the desired height, and mow on, so to speak.

I removed the tail wheel from my cutter 5 years ago because it was always in the way of the discharge, and decreased my maneuvering room while mowing.

I've not had any issues thus far...

 

[RalphVa]

You could attach 2 of those trailer tongue support wheels to the front sides of the brush hog, similar to the one shown attached that I put on my Gravely cart.

I put this guide wheel on to keep the cart from tipping back if I had it attached to the 3 ph drawbar.

The wheel is rotated to the back of the cart in this photo. It'll rotate down. Think it is height adjustable. You'd want to find one with probably a more heavy duty wheel.

Ralph

 

[Grubs]

Thanks fellas. I'll have another go using the 3PH to raise the height and just use it floating.... as soon as I get the blades (3 of them) to within a bulls roar of the same weight so that it stops shaking!

Given the tractor is quite light (B1750) a wheel on the back sounds like something I should consider. My local dealer has some junker equipment out the back - I'll see if I can find a donor wheel next time I go there.

I searched the forums and read quite a few threads about how to set the height with the rear wheel and much weight people put on the rear wheel but there didn't seem to be many people at all that jsut ran about with their 'hog hanging off the 3PH in mid air.

Thanks again.

 

[djradz]

I searched the forums and read quite a few threads about how to set the height with the rear wheel and much weight people put on the rear wheel but there didn't seem to be many people at all that jsut ran about with their 'hog hanging off the 3PH in mid air.

Thanks again.

Add check chains, then no more "hanging".

This pic is of my RFM, but my brush hog is the same, except without the turnbuckles. You would still want a rear wheel too.