procedures for installing Box Blade

tld · Nov 28, 2002

I have a new JD 4110 and just detached the rear mounted mower. I tried to hook up a neighbors 4 foot box blade and seems adjustments need to be made. The center link seems easy enough to adjust. However each side arm needs to come inward about 2 inches so the pin on the blade bracket will go thru the eye of the lift arms. What adjustments need made? Thanks

MiniOaksMocha · Nov 28, 2002

Tom, is the 4' box blade still factory or has it been modified to fit another tractor? I have a NH TC29D so I'm not familiar with the 3 pt system on the Deere, but all of the ones I've seen have a few inches of swing on each arm.

DK35vince · Nov 28, 2002

Did you adjust your sway chains on the lift arms to let the arms come all the way in ?

rf33 · Nov 28, 2002

Once you get the arms adjusted to the correct width, the generally accepted procedure is to get the side links close to the right position by carefully backing the tractor into position, then beat the living @#&$ out of the hitch components with as large a hammer as you can find until everything lines up. If you know any good drunken sailor phrases, they will likely come in handy during this procedure also. Seriously though, it really does get easier with practice. My tractor has pins you remove to allow the lower links to move closer together or further apart. I believe this is called adjusting the sway. Perhaps your tractor has something similar?

jyoutz · Nov 28, 2002

You must pull the keeper pins and turn the sway turnbuckle to get some slack on the hitch arms. Then, you must adjust the turnbuckle and limit the amount of sway on the implement after it is attached. Then reinstall the keeper pin. By the way, run down to your local hardware store, spend $30 and buy a 6' digging bar. With one of these bars, you can move heavy implements into place without straining your back. Best $30 you'll ever spend.

GlennT · Nov 29, 2002

The 6 foot digging bar is an excellent suggestion. Also, if you keep the box blade in a shed with a concrete floor, go to Tractor Supply and buy four heavy-duty steel castors at $5 each, mount them under an old pallet and use it as a dolly under the box blade. This really makes life easier. Even with the dolly, you still might want to use the digging bar to help with those final small adjustments.

tld · Nov 29, 2002

Thanks to all. I adjusted each turnbuckle to make it fit. Now, to adjust the sway, I guess I should readjust each turnbuckle, right? Also, sitting on the concrete, the blade does not go any lower than the tires. If I want to take more bite out of the ground, can I position the tractor so the implement has room to drop below the tires and then lengthen the center link?
Thanks for the tip on the bar and dolly.