Protecting the operator area.. to build or buy?

[BoonDoc]

I use my Boomer 30 in the forest where there's plenty of fallen and partially fallen trees. My neighbors are loggers and tell the tales of folks on skidders getting whipped and impaled. I don't log or skid, but in clearing some woodfall, I've already had a few branches bend and whip back towards me. Also had a rotted branch fall out of the tree above and crash onto my hood. I don't want a cab with glass, etc, but was thinking of making two upright poles in front of the controls to add some protection from getting whipped, etc. While using a towing strap to pull someone out of the muck, it dawned on me that there's also the vulnerability from behind. A snapped strap could, I suppose, lead to a severe lashing from the snapped end. I wonder if there are any off-the-shelf stuff that bolts on or can be fitted with slight modification. Worst case, I'll try to have something welded, like two vertical bars in front, with horizontals to the ROPS, and bolt a steel mesh panel behind me to the ROPS. I don't want to reinvent the wheel here and would prefer stuff that's already made for this. Any thoughts?

Doc

 

[timster2]

Find an auto shop local that makes roll cages. They could bend up some tubing that you could bolt on to the ROPS and the frame rather then weld it solid. Will cost you a few $ but it will protect you. You can look at a lot of forestry equipment for ideas.

 

[BoonDoc]

Great idea, Timster. I could get some great ideas spying a look at forestry equip.

 

[bcp]

There may be a factory FOPS(Falling Object Protection System) for your tractor. Add some screen on the back, and it should meet your needs.

I see more on Kubotas than most other brands:

 

[BoonDoc]

Exactly what I had in mind. The photo in the right lower corner is spot on!:thumbsup:

There may be a factory FOPS(Falling Object Protection System) for your tractor. Add some screen on the back, and it should meet your needs.

I see more on Kubotas than most other brands:

View attachment 329905

 

[bcp]

A Boomer 30 FOPS is listed on page 9 or 10 of this document:

http://www.dot.state.mn.us/maintena...2/New Holland/New Holland Compact 10-3-11.pdf

Bruce

 

[Dr_Zinj]

As far as snapped straps, lines/ropes, chains, cables; the first thing is to inspect them before use and never, never, never use one that's visibly damaged.

Second thing is to only use ones that are stronger than the maximum load you're going to put on them. 10-ton tree on a 5-ton cable, the cable will fail catastrophically when it goes.

Third thing, hook the connector low to the tractor. I'm assuming you connecting it to the usual hitching point which is well below the main drive wheels' axle. That does 2 things: reduces the chance of a tip over backwards, and if the connector does break, the recoil should go low, under the tractor, and not through any of the operator area.

Fourth. This ties into the last phrase. If the connector is under tension in any straight line that can be drawn through the operator area, it has the potential for injury or death. This includes drawing a line where the cable might be curved over a log or other object to get a lifting effect on the load. Military towing instructions include that trick (often going over an A frame or X frame) to extract vehicles or equipment mired in boggy ground where a straight pull won't work. It may be the only way to pull your load; but it does carry a higher level of risk and danger. That's a case where it's better to have a motorized winch on the tractor, and remote switch for it rather than being in the driver seat.

 

[BoonDoc]

Good advice, and bears repeating. Yes, strap was new, exceeded the expected load, and was mounted below the axle. The car was hung up on something and needed to be rocked out. Looking back at that strap reminded me of when my brother and I would each grab an end of a rubber band and see who ended up saying ouch! I suppose that's why loggers use chain. A link breaks, the chain falls.

As far as snapped straps, lines/ropes, chains, cables; the first thing is to inspect them before use and never, never, never use one that's visibly damaged.

Second thing is to only use ones that are stronger than the maximum load you're going to put on them. 10-ton tree on a 5-ton cable, the cable will fail catastrophically when it goes.

Third thing, hook the connector low to the tractor. I'm assuming you connecting it to the usual hitching point which is well below the main drive wheels' axle. That does 2 things: reduces the chance of a tip over backwards, and if the connector does break, the recoil should go low, under the tractor, and not through any of the operator area.

Fourth. This ties into the last phrase. If the connector is under tension in any straight line that can be drawn through the operator area, it has the potential for injury or death. This includes drawing a line where the cable might be curved over a log or other object to get a lifting effect on the load. Military towing instructions include that trick (often going over an A frame or X frame) to extract vehicles or equipment mired in boggy ground where a straight pull won't work. It may be the only way to pull your load; but it does carry a higher level of risk and danger. That's a case where it's better to have a motorized winch on the tractor, and remote switch for it rather than being in the driver seat.

 

[BoonDoc]

A Boomer 30 FOPS is listed on page 9 or 10 of this document:

http://www.dot.state.mn.us/maintena...2/New Holland/New Holland Compact 10-3-11.pdf

Bruce

Thanks Bruce, I see the part number, but a google search turn up little apart from the pdf you linked to. I'm going to ask my dealership about that part number. If it's pricey, I may opt for a welder to bend some bars like Timster said. ****, I could even throw a piece of fabric over it for a sun-shade.

 

[timster2]

Tow straps have hardware, hooks etc, attached. Recovery straps have no hardware just formed loops at either end to minimize the danger if it fails.