MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 58,021
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
The rear wheels on both my 48" brush cutter and 60" finish mower have seen better days. Power Trac wants about $25.00 each. I found these for $7.63 each.
http://thecasterguy.com/wheels-polyolefin-c-2_245/8-wheel-x-2-wide-x-3-4-bore-size-rb-p-2766
Originally, the finish mower had 7" wheels with 3/4" bore, and a 3/4"-1/2" bushing to reduce the axle hole to the 1/2" axle bolt size. I called Power Trac and they apparently no longer sell the 7" wheel for the finish mower. They have changed to the same 8" wheel as the brush cutter.
The original wheels on both the brush cutter and finish mower had no bearings and are not greasable.
These wheels have roller bearings and seals. No grease zerk hole, though one could probably drill and tap for that.
So I greased them up before installation and will grease them annually during the winter.
They are the same material as the original wheels (made by Colson). They are rated at 900 pounds, so that shouldn't be a problem. The edges are more rounded than the original finish mower wheels, so that will be a plus when turning.
For the brush cutter, it just uses a 3/4" axle bolt, so no bushing is required.
We'll see how they hold up to the abuse of the brush cutter.
In the picture is the new wheel and the old finish mower wheel.... more like a pizza cutter now! :laughing:
Hard to see, but there is a metal sleeve inside the new wheel.
Below the new wheel is the two seals and the roller bearing.
To axle shaft bushing, the 1/2" axle shaft bolt with a washer (goes on the outside).
A washer goes on the inside of the wheel.
Then the bolt goes through the height hole, another washer and a lock nut.
The bolt tightens down the and the washers pinch the bushing, which is just a tad longer than the hole through the wheel, so the wheel rolls nicely on the bearing.
For the brush cutter, I did a similar thing, but put a nut on both the inside and outside of the mounting hole and some flat washers for spacers since there is not a bushing to snug up the bolt. Too tight and you'd pinch the wheel.
http://thecasterguy.com/wheels-polyolefin-c-2_245/8-wheel-x-2-wide-x-3-4-bore-size-rb-p-2766
Originally, the finish mower had 7" wheels with 3/4" bore, and a 3/4"-1/2" bushing to reduce the axle hole to the 1/2" axle bolt size. I called Power Trac and they apparently no longer sell the 7" wheel for the finish mower. They have changed to the same 8" wheel as the brush cutter.
The original wheels on both the brush cutter and finish mower had no bearings and are not greasable.
These wheels have roller bearings and seals. No grease zerk hole, though one could probably drill and tap for that.
So I greased them up before installation and will grease them annually during the winter.
They are the same material as the original wheels (made by Colson). They are rated at 900 pounds, so that shouldn't be a problem. The edges are more rounded than the original finish mower wheels, so that will be a plus when turning.
For the brush cutter, it just uses a 3/4" axle bolt, so no bushing is required.
We'll see how they hold up to the abuse of the brush cutter.
In the picture is the new wheel and the old finish mower wheel.... more like a pizza cutter now! :laughing:
Hard to see, but there is a metal sleeve inside the new wheel.
Below the new wheel is the two seals and the roller bearing.
To axle shaft bushing, the 1/2" axle shaft bolt with a washer (goes on the outside).
A washer goes on the inside of the wheel.
Then the bolt goes through the height hole, another washer and a lock nut.
The bolt tightens down the and the washers pinch the bushing, which is just a tad longer than the hole through the wheel, so the wheel rolls nicely on the bearing.
For the brush cutter, I did a similar thing, but put a nut on both the inside and outside of the mounting hole and some flat washers for spacers since there is not a bushing to snug up the bolt. Too tight and you'd pinch the wheel.
