PTO switch on a 2320

[bxowner]

I have yet to buy any PTO attachments, but plan on getting both a mid-mount mower and chipper in the spring.

I've had a JD garden tractor with the same style switch as the one on the dash - the yellow pull knob - and on my garden tractor, I would just pull it to engage the mower deck. Never slowed the rpms on the engine. Can I do the same on the 2320 - or do I have to lower and raise the throttle each time?

As far as the 3-pt hitch PTO lever, same question... do I engage the PTO, then raise engine rpms for the chipper? Or just run it at the 540 speed and slide the 'engage' lever?

 

[jdbower]

The proper method for just about any tractor is to engage the PTO at low RPMs, otherwise it's like popping the clutch when you're redlining. Not only does it put more stresses on the belts, but but you may do some damage if you've got a blockage (hopefully only to a shear pin). With the mower it's a high speed device but I rarely encounter a blockage so I usually start this above the minimum RPM (but not nearly at full RPM) in the raised position.

The chipper is another story, at one point I forgot and started it at full RPM. I had a leftover branch chunk wedge itself in the blades and snap a $100+ belt (even after taking the blame and explaining exactly what happened when I ordered a replacement belt DR decided to replace it under warranty - nice guys!). At a lower speed the tractor may have stalled out, but I would guess that the branch wouldn't have wedged itself in there and just "floated" over the blades as I increased the speed.

 

[RalphVa]

I engage the PTO switch at 1500 rpm. Then speed up to the 540 setting.

On my chipper when finished, I very slowly lower the rpm until about 1000-1500 before pushing the PTO switch in. It saves the chipper belt from squeaking too much. Too eliminate the squeak entirely, I lower rpm to 1500-2000 and then quickly push the PTO selector to the "front" position.

If you engage the PTO on a bush hog at full rpm, you can shear the shear pin in the drive shaft.

Ralph

 

[jdl]

When in doubt read the operator's manual. I believe they recommend engaging the PTO at low rpm and then spooling up from there. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[bxowner]

Thanks... I had assumed the 3-pt PTO would be engaged, then rpms raised to 540.

But, I'm surprised about the mid-PTO. I used to turn on and off the mower deck so often on my GX335 that I'd drive myself crazy if I raised and lowered the rpms all the time. In fact, if you touched the reverse-hydro it would turn off the mower.

The JD 111 I grew up with lasted 20 years turning on and off the mower at full rpms. I think that tractor got a new belt every 5 or 6 years. But, it was a belt drive all around - no shaft.

Glad I asked before buying.

 

[jdbower]

Remember that the 2320 has a lot more torque than a garden tractor, that's where they get you. A gas-powered tractor typically has less torque and would naturally bog down on startup until the PTO gets to a higher speed and then the better horsepower takes over. With a diesel tractor you've got a ton of torque spread along the power curve pretty well so you've got a lot of startup forces. Of course, I doubt everyone's careful about PTO startup RPMs and there aren't many stories about broken belts so maybe I'm just a little too careful (and we all know how conservative Ma Deere is). On the plus side, if the 2320 is like the 2520 you won't have to disengage the mid PTO when you go in reverse.

Also note that the RPM you set the engine to is not the RPM of the PTO. The PTO will reach full RPM (540 for the rear, 2100 for the mid) at the mark on the gauge. Not sure if that's what you meant above but it was a little ambiguous.

 

[BigD9]

OK, I'm going to step out on a limb here. When using the MMM on my 2320, I rarely have the tractor reved up to the PTO 540 rpm speed (3000 on the engine tach). I usually operate the MMM at 1500 +- RPM or so. I can "turn off" and "turn on" the MMM at will. The 2320 has a lot of torque, and I've never had any problems operating at this engine speed. I started this practice when my Dear Wife found out how much fun this little tractor is to operate, and now does all the grass mowing. Even though I have completely de-rocked the 5 mowable acres or so, I swear she goes out in the middle of the night and plants rocks so she can hit them when mowing! Hitting a rock with the MMM operating at 3000 RPM engine speed sure makes for one loud bang, sparks, and flying debris and either stalling the engine or worse. The blades don't seem to hold up very well either.

Now for my tiller, I do operate it at 3000 RPM.

 

[bxowner]

BigD9...

Do you find the hydro 'bogs' down at only 1500rpm? Should I assume you do the mowing in low range? I haven't used my tractor for anything but clearing snow - and I dial up the rpms right to PTO speed so I can get as much hydraulic speed out of the loader. I've mentioned my frustration with the slow loader before - but would be removing it to mow. Since you mention it, I could probably get by with slow engine rpms mowing. Will have to try. Thanks.

 

[BigD9]

No, my wife never complains about it bogging down, and she should know. She always holds “the peddle to the metal” and never slows down for anything. Not rocks, trees or any man made obstacle! Another reason I use a slower speed is noise. It’s much quieter. We don’t have a lush lawn yet since the house has just been finished and the yard is still a farm field, so I’m not sure how this speed would work on a really well fertilized watered thick lawn.

Yes, we always use the low gear unless I am going to tram the tractor to the back of the property.

Bucket speed is slow, but then I am partially retired so what do I care! Seriously, it can be a little frustrating with the slow speed of the FEL, but nothing can be done so I acept it.

We never remove the FEL for mowing. Seems I am always using the FEL for something, so we just leave it on.

 

[RalphVa]

Running at 1500 rpm runs the risk of ruining your engine bearings. There's just not near the oil flow at low rpms. You really should be running at 2500 to whatever your rpm is for the 540 rear PTO speed. That's what the tractor was really designed for.

On my 4010, I only run it at 1500 rpm until it gets warmed up. Up the hill requires about 2200 rpm in high gear to get up the hill. Even a tiny hill at 1500 rpm will lug it.

Rpm doesn't ruin engines. Lack of good oil flow for lubrication and cooling does. On our 1983 Benz, it still gets revved pretty much to red line (about 4400 rpm) in 1st and 2nd gears every time we take it out. It has 205k miles and is still running fine.

Buy some ear muffs and put them on as noise protection.

Ralph