PTO Troubles

[The kid]

I had the exact same problem and wrote it off for a year or two. After a bit of research I started doing some troubleshooting. I would put a trickle charger on the battery and at first the clutch would kick in every time. Then about half way thru six acres and shut off the clutch to pick up sticks. The clutch would not re- engage. I'd wait about an hour and start the mower up and it would work. After awhile, same thing. After logically looking at the clutch with needed voltage and amperage to work. My battery was barely strong enough to start the engine but wouldn't engage the clutch.

Next out came the multimeter. I started at the source. Battery was 11v. Next, I went to the regulator or bridge rectifier on the side of my Kohler 25. It showed shorted. I got on the net looking for like problems. The most common was a loose magnet under the magneto. Loose magnet? Inside the magneto / flywheel there is an array of magnets that rotate around a "stator" or alternator which develops 18v input to the rectifier. If a magnet comes loose while the engine is running it destroys the stationary stator. Think of your engine as a small 15 amp generator. With the stator destroyed. No voltage going to the rectifier/regulator and probably shorting and destroying it as well.

The stator, magneto / flywheel and rectifier had to be replaced on mine. Yours may only require a rectifier. The rectifier has three wires. The two outside should be marked 18v. The middle is your charging voltage. Remove the three wires, marking them first. If the battery is charged start the engine and measure the AC voltage on the two outside wires you removed from the rectifier.. There should be 18v AC present. If not your stator is bad. If 18V AC is present the the rectifier is bad. Reconnect the stator wires to the rectifier and with engine running measure the DC volts on the center rectifier terminal which should read around 14VDC. Hopefully you won't have to replace the flywheel magneto, stator and rectifier as I did.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Bob,

Thanks for the clarification in regards to the air gap adjustment. I can now rule that out. As you point out, it sounds like I need to check for vacuum leaks and loose hoses. Since I have replaced the PTO switch, would that eliminate the possibility of it being the interlock switches, relay, etc...?

No, an interlock switch like the seat could still be a problem. I'm not sure if the brake interlock is in the circuit also.

Bob B.

 

[RONABNER]

Recently the PTO on my 2009 Cub RZT 50 VT stoped working while in use. I had replaced the battery a week earlier, and the Delta PTO switch this past week. I am a real novice when it comes to a ZTR mower. Any suggestins?

 

[rcbe]

ronabner - first things first. start with a known baseline. Pull the "new" battery and take it to a qualified shop that will LOAD test it right in front of you. A marginal battery can cause a PTO to kick out as you describe and new lawn tractor batteries are somewhat notorious for being marginal as new. Also clean all cable contacts to bright metal with sandpaper while battery is out, including chassis ground connections.
Re-run and re-test entire sytem - post back with detail if still trouble.

 

[boilers413]

I have Cub Cadet 3184 and get my PTO to come on. Where do i go from the switch and what am i looking for