Pulling Disk Harrow Problems

[MiniOaksMocha]

Have a TC29D - when pulling a 3 point lift type 5' Disk Harrow with 18" Notched Blades, can't seem to keep it level to the ground. Either the front gangs are digging in with the rear gangs in the air, or vice versa. I've had a U bracket built for the top link similiar to the one on my Bushhog 6' Finish Mower which helped slightly. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions are welcomed.

 

[JoeR]

I have a 5' disc harrow also. The first time I used it, the front would dig in too. I put some cement blocks on the rear of the disc to weigh it down. It was really not that bad without the weight either. The blocks worked well, but it was a chore to tie them to the disc. On another note, the front disc may be set too aggressive compared to the rear, which could cause the front to dig in more than the back. Just two weeks ago, I used the disc harrow, and attached a chain/drag harrow to the disc harrow. This way, I could disc and level in one pass. The weight and pull of the chain behind the disc harrow worked flawlessly!!! It really helped the rear blades of the disc to dig in. What a difference that made!!

Joe R.

 

[have_blue]

I adjust the top link until the rear gang gets an inch or 2 more penetration than the front gang. This seems to let things even out over varying loads, soil conditions, and gears.

I think this is a common problem for short, aggressive little disk harrows.

 

[art]

The disc harrow is not meant to be lower in the rear then the front. I would try a level it. To get a level result try and tow something else behind or if your gang angle is the adjustable tey that to lower the ridging.

 

[Soundguy]

Like HAVEBLUE said... that 3pt geometry is pretty telltale.. if the rear is high.. your toplink is too short.. if the front is too high toplink is too long. The 'u' link will give you some play so it shouldn't be to hard to adjust.. just have to play with it. As someone else mentioned.. the notched discs are much more agressive than the smooth 'leveling' discs that are commonly on the rear gang..

As someone else mentioned.. weights help the disc bite more..


Soundguy

 

[Slamfire]

You could put a tongue on it, and tow it from the drawbar. That would free it up to follow the ground in the best manner possible. Not every implement is best served by a 3 point hitch.

 

[Soundguy]

It would be just as east to disconnect the toplink in that case... no need to overthink the problem here.. it is just a geometry question.., and practice at getting the right angle, and adjustment.. we've all been there with this sort of a problem on 3pt equipment... easilly overcome..

Soundguy

 

[RonR]

For using the disc harrow, you could install a length of chain as the top link. That would allow the disc to float, and you could still lift it to maneauver.

Enjoy.

Ron

 

[Soundguy]

True.. but I like the minscule amount of protection that that rigid toplink provides in a backflip situation. NMay not be much.. but any delay may save your life.

I know there is dig discussion / disention on the rigid vs non rigid toplinks.. .. so.. just throwing in my .02 here..

Soundguy

 

[MiniOaksMocha]

Thanks for all the responses. Another reason for the problem may be that the bottom bars on the 3 pt hitch are not pulling level. On the tractor end, they are at 15" from the ground, while the lower pins on the disk harrow are at 21", giving it a 6" downward forward angle as it's pulled forward. I believe that if the pins would be lowered on the disk by 6", then the pulling effort (force) would be level and directly forward, rather than forward and downward. Has anyone every tried lowering the disk pins? The chain idea for the top link may be the answer also.