Putting in a new lawn, need advice

[AchingBack]

Between now and late summer, work on incorporating as much organic matter as you can, into the top 8" of the future lawn area. You want a deep seed bed. If you don't get this done before seeding, imagine how hard it will be after the lawn fails. The secret to a good lawn in a nice deep area for grass roots to penetrate. By waiting until late summer to do the seeding, you are not germinating tons of broad leaf weeds that will easily choke out grass.

I would plant a blend of seed types suited for your area. The stronger strain will dominate, and should prove to be the best. Planting a single strain of grass would give poorer results over the long run. Since it is not that expensive, I have always seeded at about 1 1/2 times the recommended rate.

WARNING! Following the directions for a successful lawn will most certainly guarantee good results, and some poor soul is going to have to mow it.

As far as rocks are concerned, anything under softball size, I leave in the ground to promote good drainage.

As for straw mulch, I've never had a problem, and find it to be the cheapest way to cover the bed. Just a light covering is all you need. This helps warm the soil, and retain moisture while the seeds are germinating. It will soon decompose, and add valuable organic material to the lawn.

 

[4720 OWNER]

Had pretty fgood luck going to the big box stores and picking up some 'contractor grade' seed. Has a mix of annual (for this year) and pereneals (sp) and seems to fill in pretty well and gets established. The mix has some flexibilility with shade and sun.

Like most will say, at least in other threads, dirt testing is cheap and will keep you from wasting hard earned # on fertilizer you may not need. But then i am not a big fan of fertilizer other than what nature gives us. I think she knows what she is doing she has been at it a lot longer than any other fertilizer company!

 

[PBinWA]

One thing I would emphasize that I wish I knew before I did my lawn:

The more time and effort you put into getting your dirt smooth and flat the faster you will be able to mow it later. It's one of those ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure things.

It's amazing how even small ruts can jar you when you are trying to mow fast. Dips and valleys can cause scalping.

Work that dirt till it's as flat as possible!

I like Perrenial Rye Grass and was lucky that my local Walmart stocked big bags of it cheaper than anywhere else. But I don't know if it will do well in your area. You may want to look around and try to figure out what type of grass is growing in the nice looking lawns in your area.

 

[PBinWA]

Had pretty fgood luck going to the big box stores and picking up some 'contractor grade' seed. Has a mix of annual (for this year) and pereneals (sp) and seems to fill in pretty well and gets established. The mix has some flexibilility with shade and sun.

Some of that contractor grade stuff is pretty ugly.

IMHO, If you're just seeding pasture it is fine but if you want nice lawn up close to the house then stay away from it.

 

[oliver28472]

I just googled rebel grass seed. One of the hits calls for 8-10 lbs per 1000 square feet of newly seeded lawn. That is a lot. I did about an acre in 2006 and put out 300 lbs of seed on that. Will probably redo another part of my yard this fall by spraying w/roundup in August. Will then aerate, aerate, aerate, then overseed. Then hope it rains.