Q. Farm fence corners

   / Q. Farm fence corners #11  
" My gut tells me that the post will be leaning 45deg by this time next year."

No it probably won't be leaning in a year, with no brace on a corner post with field wire pulled off that corner, it will have a noticeable lean in a week. Since he appearantly doesn't know how to install fence correctly he'll soon be out there attaching guy wires on the back side of the corners trying to pull the wire tight again...if he ever had it tight in the first place.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #12  
He's not pulling any fence of distance without braced corners , his corners will be steady giving when he try's to tighten the wire , I try not to go any further than 15' on line post unless as someone else already stated about putting steel t-post in between.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #13  
A lot of good information has already been said about corners, but there is also a need for a good H-brace at the ends of field fence to act as good anchors to help hold the tension in the fence if it is over 330 feet long.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #14  
If it’s high tensile fence you can get away with 40’ between posts, but if you don’t have good corners your fence will sag within days or as soon as it rains.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #15  
Good corner bracing keeps the corner post where its supposed to be. In 1982 & '83 I installed a five wire barbed wire fence around my 80 acres. It a "pure rectangle" - 1320 x 2640. One corner is a ten foot rail road tie buried five feet(sits on bedrock at five feet). It is back braced with a 3/8" wire rope to a rock bolt screwed & glued into the bedrock. It has not moved a measurable amount in 36 years. The second corner is a large pine tree. It four feet inside my actual corner but that's OK with me. The pine is a great anchor and the fence simply bends 90 degrees around the tree. Third anchor is a 4' x 4' x 4' metal gabion filled with rock. My fourth corner is out in the middle of my larger lake and I just don't even worry about that. The fence ends about 25 feet out in the lake at another metal gabion. Tried everything we could but the ice will "remove" anything placed out in the middle of the lake where the actual corner is located. My fence included 645 T-133 posts - driven in every 12 feet or so.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #17  
The corners and end caps are the most important thing. I use concrete corner and end posts and both H hard braced and X braced with wire. It will only work the way he is doing it if he clotheslines the wires and puts no tension on them. i.e. to keep people out. Livestock will go right through and/or pull his corners down.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #18  
A high-tension steel wire fence will pull the corners in faster than a slacker horse tape/rope fence. Soil type, post diameter and mounting depth will also play a big role. I have heavily-creosoted, recycled bridge piles (12"-14" dia) as corner posts in one of my fields. These are buried to about 4 ft. Two corners are braced and two are not. In my soils, with my (relatively) low-tension horse fence, all of the corners are still acceptably upright after nearly 20 years in place. Having said that, there are a lot of variables but any unbraced corner post will eventually lean in.
 
   / Q. Farm fence corners #20  
I agree with all the above. You could put a 20" post in and it will be leaning soon. We do corners with H braces and we go 5' deep. It may be over kill but our corners do not lean or come out, the deeper the better IMO
 

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