Jim Timber
Veteran Member
I built a stump grinder that seems to swing the cutting head a bit more than the 30 degrees from center when raised and swung to the shortest side (the PTO shaft extended has no vibrations on the long side fully raised or lowered). Even though the drive train isn't under any load at this angle, there's a bit of vibration and it can't be good for things since there's a fair amount of rotational inertia with the 24" 3/4" thick wheel and cutters, etc.
I've struck out in finding an H-yolk for the Series 7 metric u-joints, but I have an idea for how to overcome that and that's what this thread is aimed at discussing.
What if you sistered up a pair of inside yokes for the same size shaft and made a H-yoke that way? It'd be dirt simple and assembling it would take all of 10 minutes if you took your time. I have drop shafting from building my shaft, so I just need the two additional yokes and could weld the whole thing together or bolt it. I don't like the idea of the H coming apart too easily, so I'm in favor of something more robust than the roll pins.
If this is a hare brained idea, I'm all ears. But I don't see why it wouldn't work other than possibly having excessive bearing cup to cup distance.
Thoughts?
I've struck out in finding an H-yolk for the Series 7 metric u-joints, but I have an idea for how to overcome that and that's what this thread is aimed at discussing.
What if you sistered up a pair of inside yokes for the same size shaft and made a H-yoke that way? It'd be dirt simple and assembling it would take all of 10 minutes if you took your time. I have drop shafting from building my shaft, so I just need the two additional yokes and could weld the whole thing together or bolt it. I don't like the idea of the H coming apart too easily, so I'm in favor of something more robust than the roll pins.
If this is a hare brained idea, I'm all ears. But I don't see why it wouldn't work other than possibly having excessive bearing cup to cup distance.
Thoughts?