question about forks

[lostcause]

i just brought home a used rf-30 mill/drill a couple days ago, and now i'm almost ready to get back to making things. i say almost, because as is the way with many of my purchases, some parts and assembly is often required. hopefully the $2.50 key and a $1.25 spring will be the only parts i need for a while. and hopefully when i order them tomorrow they will be in stock somewhere and not have to be ordered from china

ok, now on to the forks... earlier this year i picked up a pair of used forks at the scrap yard with the plan of making them into an attachment for my tractor's loader. the forks are the type that hang over a bar and have a pin that drops into grooves in the bar to hold the forks in position. my forks are in pretty decent shape, aside from some rust. the lock pins are also fairly rusty, and i'm wondering if there is supposed to be a spring underneath that holds them down, except for when you pull the pin up to move the fork tines.

if there is supposed to be some sort of spring in there, could someone describe the size of it to me, or if you happen to have a manual, maybe give me a name, brand, part number, picture, or similar? the roll pins that drop down into the grooves have long since rusted off, and i have a feeling i may need to fabricate new pins completely, but that's not a huge deal.

 

[kennyd]

They are spring loaded...the lever for lifting the pins should have a cam on it to hold it up while you position the forks. Sorry but I could not find good pictures or a parts breakdown online...

 

[NubsNob]

LostCause: I sent a private msg earlier today re your forks. I have your pictures, contact me so I can send them.

 

[lostcause]

LostCause: I sent a private msg earlier today re your forks. I have your pictures, contact me so I can send them.

thanks.

 

[countrybumpkin]

here is a link to several replacement pin kits depending on what brand your forks are. Real good people to purchase from.

Fork Pin Kits

 

[beenthere]

LostCause: I sent a private msg earlier today re your forks. I have your pictures, contact me so I can send them.

Why not share the pics with the rest of us?

 

[lostcause]

thanks for the help everyone. sadly, i didn't have the type nubsnob had, so his work taking pictures was in vain. thanks though. it looks like mine are the fpk-4730 style. i'll have to cut mine off and verify that the rusty remains measure close to them, but they are the right style at least.

 

[metalcaster]

In order for those locking pins to be functional the bar that it rests upon must be notched. You could do it with a torch and grinder, but the bottoms will not be square which may inhibit the function of the pins in the first place. It would be best to use an end mill to make the slots. Probably another hour of machine time to do so. IMHO replacing the springs and getting those pins to work as designed is a waste of your time and energy. When I made my forks I cut off the "L" shaped lugs on the back and welded double extra strong steel pipe to the top of the fork with some E7018 rod; 1/8" gap between top of fork and outside of pipe. then multipass welds to fill it in. I wouldn't depend on it for a 8000# daily use fork lift, but for the 900# max lift my JD 790 can generate I am comfortable with my welds holding. Used a solid bar for the pipe to slip over allowing the adjustment of the fork widths The same pipe was welded to the quick-tach frame to hold the bar. The pictures can explain far better.

 

[lostcause]

In order for those locking pins to be functional the bar that it rests upon must be notched. You could do it with a torch and grinder, but the bottoms will not be square which may inhibit the function of the pins in the first place. It would be best to use an end mill to make the slots. Probably another hour of machine time to do so. IMHO replacing the springs and getting those pins to work as designed is a waste of your time and energy. When I made my forks I cut off the "L" shaped lugs on the back and welded double extra strong steel pipe to the top of the fork with some E7018 rod; 1/8" gap between top of fork and outside of pipe. then multipass welds to fill it in. I wouldn't depend on it for a 8000# daily use fork lift, but for the 900# max lift my JD 790 can generate I am comfortable with my welds holding. Used a solid bar for the pipe to slip over allowing the adjustment of the fork widths The same pipe was welded to the quick-tach frame to hold the bar. The pictures can explain far better.

yeah, i hear ya. my original plan was the sliding bar, and to be honest, i'm not 100% certain which way i'm going to go yet. i'm leaning toward the bar/slot setup, as the forks already match. it's a 45 minute+ drive to buy steel, so it's also a matter of what is available when i have to pick up the few other odd pieces i need. i'm probably going to work with whatever they have in stock, and that may dictate which method i use. i do have the milling capability, and putting a 1/2" slot in a 1/2" plate shouldn't be too much of an issue. can't be certain cause i've never used the mill/drill yet. kinda looking forward to the chance to see what it can do be honest. whichever setup weighs less will be important too. lift capacity is hampered by the weight of the implement.

 

[gizmo]

I have the same type of forks and milled slots in the upper bar. I also put a 1/4" bevel across the top of the bar on the front and back. The forks don't slide very well on the sharp edge.