Posthole Digger Question About Hydraulics for Auger

[B Hoofed]

I am thinking about buying a hydraulic auger drive for my Kubota M6040. It would be mounted on the loader. I'm favoring the Danuser EP6:
Model EP6 | Danuser
The EP6 is requires 6-15 gpm, which seems to be a good match for my tractor's hydraulic pump, rated at 11 gpm.
I'm also probably going to get a grapple for the FEL, so I'm considering adding a 3rd-function valve. Would a 3rd function valve be able to run the auger drive, or do I need to run hoses from a rear remote valve?
I'm concerned about having enough flow and also whether the on/off switch control of the third function valve would be too abrupt for the auger drive, versus engaging it gradually with the rear remote valve.

 

[Rustyiron]

The elec valve should be no trouble for the auger. Hyd flow (I would think) should be equal at all available locations although the size of the piping out front on the loader arms might be smaller and limit the flow. This will only slow down the auger but other than that is should work properly. I have a hyd. PHD that I let a friend borrow for his older 50hp or so Kubota with limited aux hyd flow. His results are as I've stated above. Unless you have a ton of fence to build, an auger is a good rental candidate, esp if your tractor has the ss universal hitch on the loader.

 

[kennyd]

I think the feathering ability of a regular spool valve would be better to operate a auger.

 

[jenkinsph]

I'm with Kennyd on this, while the auger is turning slow on mine through the planetary drive I am sure the hydraulic motor is turning much faster. The sudden strain of stopping instantly without a motor spool valve should be avoided. Hopefully you can buy an electric operated valve with the motor spool setup which allows the fluid a path thru the ports when in the center position. Inquire of your hydraulic supplier for this, bear in mind it won't work for cylinders though.

 

[B Hoofed]

So it sounds like if I get the hydraulic auger drive I may want to run a pair of hydraulic lines from the rear remote. I could engage and disengage the drive slowly with the spool valve.

Thanks!

 

[SSdoxie]

I would try it with what you have first before spending extra $ on plumbing you may not need. Hydraulic augers have been used on skid-steers for years and most of the newer models have some type of electric over hydraulic engagement and work fine with no problem. You can always and another circuit back to the rear remote if needed. Depending on the soil you may not need to run at full throttle RPM, at lower RPM would reduce the sudden on impact. If you have foot throttle you can engage auger at lower RPM then use the foot throttle to bring it up to speed.

 

[Rustyiron]

I would try it with what you have first before spending extra $ on plumbing you may not need. Hydraulic augers have been used on skid-steers for years and most of the newer models have some type of electric over hydraulic engagement and work fine with no problem. You can always and another circuit back to the rear remote if needed. Depending on the soil you may not need to run at full throttle RPM, at lower RPM would reduce the sudden on impact. If you have foot throttle you can engage auger at lower RPM then use the foot throttle to bring it up to speed.

Bingo!

 

[Sponge Bob]

B Hoofed,
I have the very same set up that you speak of here. I run the EP 6 off of the front on the 3rd function valve. I have only tried a couple of test holes so far in some clay. It appeared to work fine. I can't comment on the feathering issue, but will say that when you take your hand off of the button, the drive will stop quickly. I have to put in some small trees this fall which I hope to get done prior to wintah. Or at least that is what the boss says....

 

[B Hoofed]

Thanks for all of the great advice. If I go the hydraulic auger route I think I will try running I off of a third function valve, and engage/disengage at low throttle. I think I will go for the hydraulic auger drive because I see a lot of fencing in my future, with difficult ground conditions.

 

[B Hoofed]

B Hoofed,
I have the very same set up that you speak of here. I run the EP 6 off of the front on the 3rd function valve. I have only tried a couple of test holes so far in some clay. It appeared to work fine. I can't comment on the feathering issue, but will say that when you take your hand off of the button, the drive will stop quickly. I have to put in some small trees this fall which I hope to get done prior to wintah. Or at least that is what the boss says....

Good luck on the trees! Let me know how it works.

 

[Sponge Bob]

Good luck on the trees! Let me know how it works.

Thanks, will let you know how it works.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks for all of the great advice. If I go the hydraulic auger route I think I will try running I off of a third function valve, and engage/disengage at low throttle. I think I will go for the hydraulic auger drive because I see a lot of fencing in my future, with difficult ground conditions.

I think the third function valve at low throttle is a good compromise, simply put you want to take it easy on the hydraulic motor with soft starts and stops. The motor will last longer with less wear if you do. Being able to reverse the auger to get unstuck is a great benefit in my locale with the occasional large boulder.

 

[DT86]

Hey guys lets think about a skidsteer with an auger for one moment...

I bet no one ever eased into the throttle using one. The ones I've ever seen are all or nothing with no feathering into the power. Heck the best way to clear dirt from one is to run it one way and abruptly run it the other way.

When I ran a CAT auger on my 3rd function it didn't turn as fast as on the skidsteer. But it always had plenty of power to dig the holes.

I just don't think you'll have to worry about tearing it up.

Just a few thoughts.

 

[jenkinsph]

DT86,
You are right about the skidsteer and the auger, most use an electric controlled valve to engage the auger. It will work and you can stop, start and quickly reverse to clear the bit. But doing this is inherently hard on the hydraulic motor and reduces the life. For some people this is just the cost of doing business but it does help to understand what is happening and try to reduce the cost of operating when you can. When I bought my PA30 planetary auger, bits and mounting for the 110tlb it was about $4000, I for one wan't it to last awhile without repairs.

 

[Rustyiron]

I think the third function valve at low throttle is a good compromise, simply put you want to take it easy on the hydraulic motor with soft starts and stops. The motor will last longer with less wear if you do. Being able to reverse the auger to get unstuck is a great benefit in my locale with the occasional large boulder.

You just brought old memories back of "unscrewing" a 3pt. auger with a large pipe wrench from around a root or rock when fence building!

 

[rd_macgregor]

This summer I got a Belltec NC-150 with similar specs to the Danuser. I already had hoses from the rear remotes up to the FEL to run my grapple, so I only have to connect hoses and I'm on my way, using the regular control lever for the remotes.
The auger works pretty well (except through bedrock!). Two things I noticed right away: (1) [in my tractor, at least] you can't see where the bit hits the ground so a ground observer/guide is handy if exact hole placement is critical, and (2) in a tractor, it is a bit more of an operation to swing to the side to clear the auger than it is in a skid steer; getting the bit lined back up with the half-finished hole is then a tad challenging, given (1), above. I'm seriously thinking of getting one of those magnetic trailer-hitching cameras to put on my brush bar so I can see where the auger tip is going.
BOB

 

[Sponge Bob]

This summer I got a Belltec NC-150 with similar specs to the Danuser. I already had hoses from the rear remotes up to the FEL to run my grapple, so I only have to connect hoses and I'm on my way, using the regular control lever for the remotes.
The auger works pretty well (except through bedrock!). Two things I noticed right away: (1) [in my tractor, at least] you can't see where the bit hits the ground so a ground observer/guide is handy if exact hole placement is critical, and (2) in a tractor, it is a bit more of an operation to swing to the side to clear the auger than it is in a skid steer; getting the bit lined back up with the half-finished hole is then a tad challenging, given (1), above. I'm seriously thinking of getting one of those magnetic trailer-hitching cameras to put on my brush bar so I can see where the auger tip is going.
BOB

Good point Bob. I noticed the very same thing when doing the couple of test holes that I did. I have the skid steer mount on mine, so you do lose sight of the tip when you lower it. That is a good idea with the back up camera. Danuser also makes a mount that you can place on the side of the bucket, but I am not sure how effective that would be either.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Danuser also makes an offset quick attach mount that is pretty popular for tractor loader applications. We do not have it on our website yet but can include it with an auger drive for the same price as the regular skidsteer cradle.

 

[JRP]

Danuser also makes an offset quick attach mount that is pretty popular for tractor loader applications. We do not have it on our website yet but can include it with an auger drive for the same price as the regular skidsteer cradle.

I,m actually building the QH mount for my nc150 today. It will have a tool bar look and the auger mount will pin on. The location of the auger could be centered, or offset to either side. I also want the auger to fold parallel to the mount tol bar for easy transport and compact loading on a trailer.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I think the offset mount would probably do the trick as far as visibility of placing the auger tip is concerned. I'd considered having a welding shop weld an alternative, offset mount onto mine...it's not a very complicated setup.
BOB