question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid

   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #1  

grsthegreat

Super Star Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
Messages
13,163
Location
north idaho
Tractor
Kioti DK45SE hst cab
OK, i did my 50 hour maintenance work today and i have a question that someone else may know the answer to.

I followed the manual when i drained the transmission fluid and removal of the transmission filter and the HST filter (PS: thank you to whoever suggested i buy an 8" strap belt for filter removal...you saved my butt).

I drained all the fluid from the main drain under the tractor, then replaced filters and refilled the tractor.

I was supposed to take 11.3 gal of fluid.....it only took 9.4 gal ???

couldn't figure it out. But as I was checking all bolts for torque, i noticed two orange painted bolts on the lower end of both rear axles....way down low. Are we supposed to open those and drain the fluid from there also?? that is probably where my discrepancy lies. Mind you it doesn't say anything in either the owners manual or the service manual.

I wasn't about to re-drain all the fluid i just put back in there, so ill worry about it at the 200 hour change.

All fluids (tranny and front axle) were clear and clean. Engine oil looked good also.

Found a few loose loader bolts (only torqued around 70 ft-lb instead of 110ish and one heater line clamp was missing. All fixed now.

The loader was removed to make for easier work, and it now comes off in a few minutes as opposed to the 45 min it took the first time...greasing the pins = A+++++ idea.

while i was at it i washed, waxed, vacuumed, armoralled and washed all the windows

looks like it did when i had 1 hour on it :) :) :)
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #2  
I'm 6 hrs from doing the service so may not be much help. But I recall another thread where a poster mentioned there are 3 bolts to remove for the transmission oil change. I checked the tractor and like you found them so was planning to drain oil from there too.

As for a filter wrench. I don't have one but from your remarks it looks like it is required for the HST filter. Is that right? I've always been able to remove other filters without a wrench.
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #3  
I don't know who that guy is putting filters on over in Korea, he is either pretty good sized or has a long cheeter bar to make sure they don't leak :laughing:

Yep, main drain in center of rear end with 2 lower drains at outer axles, same with the front axle has center drain and 1 at bottom of each spindle.

As long as your oil looked clean and not a lot of metal filings on the center drain plug magnet I wouldn't worry about not drain the 2 lower plugs this time around, just get them next time.
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I don't know who that guy is putting filters on over in Korea, he is either pretty good sized or has a long cheeter bar to make sure they don't leak :laughing:

Yep, main drain in center of rear end with 2 lower drains at outer axles, same with the front axle has center drain and 1 at bottom of each spindle.

As long as your oil looked clean and not a lot of metal filings on the center drain plug magnet I wouldn't worry about not drain the 2 lower plugs this time around, just get them next time.

the magnet had only 1 very small piece on it.

all 3 filters were on too tight. way to tight. unless your Arnold the terminator...youll need the wrench.

i have 2 sizes of filter wrenches, and they removed the oil and the transmission filters, but wouldn't fit the HST filter.

I bought an 8" Husky brand rubber strap wrench from Home Depot ($6.00) like someone else posted, and even that took alot of grunting and tugging, but it did come off. The new filter only gets set on 1/3 turn after gasket contact. I think they went around a few full turns. It was nuts.

all tested, no leaks. I sure wish the **** books showed about the lower 2 bolts.....pisses me off.

The front axle had a total of 5 bolts i removed for draining like you said. It was real easy to do after i removed the front tires. i feared if i left the tires on it would have been an oily mess.

overall it was an easy procedure....only a few hours. I was amazed how few grease Zerk's there are on the tractor. My old JD had lots more.
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #5  
I broke an adjustable metal filter wrench trying to get the hydraulic filter off during the 50 hour. Not only do they put it on too tight, they ten paint over it. Have to admit, my temper was at a level I don't like. :mad:
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #6  
My dealer did my 50hr service on the farm free. I asked about getting all the hydraulic fluid from the loader hoses.

He indicated that basically you always had to leave some residual fluid in there.

So probably not a big deal missing a quart from the front axle plugs.
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #7  
Speaking of the zerks, I have 94 hours on mine now and tried to grease the fittings underneath the front axle (front axle pivot point - front & back). I still can not get them to take grease!!

I lifted the wheels off the ground w/ the FEL and moved it up/down. No luck. I bought a new grease gun fitting, one with the 4 "claws" inside to help it grab the zerk head....still no luck. Dealer told me last year they are tight tolerances there and it will take some time and wear & I should replace the grease gun fitting (did that as I mentioned).

Anyone else have this experience?:confused:
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Speaking of the zerks, I have 94 hours on mine now and tried to grease the fittings underneath the front axle (front axle pivot point - front & back). I still can not get them to take grease!!

I lifted the wheels off the ground w/ the FEL and moved it up/down. No luck. I bought a new grease gun fitting, one with the 4 "claws" inside to help it grab the zerk head....still no luck. Dealer told me last year they are tight tolerances there and it will take some time and wear & I should replace the grease gun fitting (did that as I mentioned).

Anyone else have this experience?:confused:

no, both of my pivot point zerks took grease with no problems.......weird.

are they removable zerks? maybe you can pull them off and clean them out. i had to do that with some loader points on my old JD
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #9  
The hydrualic and oil filtters are put on and then the tractor engine is painted; powder coat baked on. Consequently the filters tend to be baked into place and once removed they are easier the second time around. Be SURE to not over tighten the oil pan bolts, they will end up stripping out the pan threads if they are turned too tight. Get 'em snug then a 1/8- 1/4" turn further, no more.

Grease fittings on the front axle are a B to get any grease into. Removing them to clean out will not in most instances make any difference. Don't force grease into the fittings or you may damage a seal and then wish you hadn't forced the grease.
This is all from the technicians from my dealer's shop discussing this with me...

As for the HST filters, if they are changed that is at least half the battle at the 50 hr service. The filters do the job of cleaning out the debris in the oil, so changing them is paramount, and whatever amount of oil is/was left will get out at the next change.
 
   / question for DK owners about changing hydraulic fluid #10  
The hydrualic and oil filtters are put on and then the tractor engine is painted; powder coat baked on. Consequently the filters tend to be baked into place and once removed they are easier the second time around. Be SURE to not over tighten the oil pan bolts, they will end up stripping out the pan threads if they are turned too tight. Get 'em snug then a 1/8- 1/4" turn further, no more.

Grease fittings on the front axle are a B to get any grease into. Removing them to clean out will not in most instances make any difference. Don't force grease into the fittings or you may damage a seal and then wish you hadn't forced the grease.This is all from the technicians from my dealer's shop discussing this with me...

As for the HST filters, if they are changed that is at least half the battle at the 50 hr service. The filters do the job of cleaning out the debris in the oil, so changing them is paramount, and whatever amount of oil is/was left will get out at the next change.

Great discussion as I will likely do my 50 hr service next week.

My question is: if grease won't go into the front axle with normal pressure is it best just to accept that, and with a little wear it will accept grease the next time?
 

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